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Old 07-23-2012, 12:01 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meese View Post
Except for the warning light . . .

The issues I mentioned were when powering the HIDs off of the factory high beam wires.

Running a relay kit and just using the high beam wires as a trigger would work just fine, except for the warning light that you mentioned because the CanBus wouldn't see the expected impedance on that line.
Does the CanBUS system on the K16 differ from the 1200GS ? I installed HID's for my GS and no probs with warning lights etc -just works perfectly.
This thread is really interesting for me, as this is my next planned mod.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:52 AM   #22
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As it is so simple to get the warning light to extinguish after going to low beam, I don't really consider that a problem although technically I guess it is.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:39 AM   #23
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I put my HID driving lights in place of the stock mirrors, as I wanted them as high and as wide as practical. I had to make custom brackets to do so, plus I removed the factory mirrors and went with some aftermarket units on the handlebars, similar to what the GS bikes use.

You can sort of see them in these two pics:




Get an Android and replace all that stuff
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:23 AM   #24
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Nice rig, Ken! a True west coast distance machine.
Thanks, Paul, especially coming from a guy who truly understands what I'm trying to do here.

I followed your 125 ride with great interest. Was that really a decade ago? Wow . . .
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:35 AM   #25
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Um silly question, but it looks like you have 3 GPS's. The stock and two others, can I ask what the other two are for?
I run Long Distance Endurance Rallies. Think of a motorcycle scavenger hunt, where all of the US and Canada is fair game. Some of these run 12 or 24 hours, and some run 3, 5, 7, or 11 days.

The trick to it all is to maximize the time/speed/distance equation. So multiple GPS units give me lots of data that I can use to decide where to go, which way to take, and how long it'll take me to get there.

I prefer the Lowrance GPS units because of the large, sunlight-readabe screens, and the fact that I can put 10 data slots on the main map screen. So I always know time and distance to next turn, time and distance to next waypoint, time and distance to the finish, and arrival times at these places.

Having two not only adds redundancy, but it allows me to run multiple route scenarios, and instantly see the difference in time and mileage. That allows me to make good decisions to maximize my points, and my final position relative to other riders.

The Nav IV is useful as it has the very latest maps, plus it interfaces to the bike to help track fuel range. But it is smaller and farther away and it doesn't have the data capabilities that I need, so it doesn't work as a primary Rallying GPS.

For just tooling around with friends, or crossing states just for the fun of it, it word just fine. But for what I'm doing, I just need more.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:36 AM   #26
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Get an Android and replace all that stuff
Nah, haven't yet found an Android device that's robust and reliable enough, and will do everything I need it to do.
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Old 07-23-2012, 07:36 PM   #27
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Very cool Ken. Be careful in VA, I know from personal experience that some troopers try to enforce the rule about driving lights not being above the headlights. Not a law for bikes only, it is illegal to have lights above the headlight that aren't covered when on the road, just like a light bar on a truck. My solution, I bought covers for the PIAAs and kept them in the tank bag.

WRT to your comments about the BMW GPS, I'd like to add a further complaint for us short old bastiges, it's a long reach. Not pleasant to fiddle with if you can't use the wheel and menu button.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:38 PM   #28
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Thanks for the answer Ken.

Thats amazing and here I thought I was so 'advanced' just planning my trips on Mapsource and not busting out a paper map anymore

Cheers!
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:50 PM   #29
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As a quick update, I bought one of Xenondepot.com HID kits (35 watt 4300k, their canbus adapter). It was a complete with all wiring.

Installation was smooth. I powered the light thru a relay from the battery. The whole process is easliy reverse-able, should I choose. The only modification I had to make was the bulb cover that requires an inch opening for the grommet. (pix)

The speaker needed to come out and the Upper side panel to gain access.

The controller and ignitor fit nicely between the Low beam Ignitor and and the plastic shelf. I used silicone glue to hold them in place.

I mounted the relay near the horn. And used the bottom bolt of the ABS unit for ground, then ran the power lead back to the battery.

Bad me for not documenting this in a bit more instructive style, and for not getting better pictures (but I do have the right side to do later).

As for results... the is now planty of light for high beam, but I'll need a fast ride across Nevada to verify for sure....

The fault indicator does come on when the high beam is switched on. When returning to low beam, all I need to do is flash the high beam and the fault light goes out.

It turned out well enough for me to now do the right side.

Hopes this helps.


Paul
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:25 PM   #30
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Any pics with the hid lights
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