I have received a number of requests for more information about changing your own oil. In reality, it is easy to do, and can save yourself a lot of money. Besides, you can use better quality oil when you do it yourself. There is also a certain level of bonding that occurs (for me anyway).
Here are the tools required.
Here is what the parts inside the bike look like:
While many here have a motorcycle lift, I just place the bike on the center stand and lay a big piece of cardboard on the ground on the righthand side of the bike.
With the drain pan located on the left side of the bike, I reach under and loosen the 8mm sump drain plug just a little.
Then, remove the socket driver and use the 8mm socket to remove the plug with the pan below ready to receive about a gallon of oil very fast.
Let this oil drain long enough to where there are but slow drops falling.
Next reach up inside the sump about 3" with a 5mm Allen wrench, feeling your way inside the small crankcase oil plug.
This is the tool my dealer uses.
Carefully loosen and remove the plug straight down without dropping it.
(Note how clean the oil is. That oil had maybe 20 miles on it. All part of the break-in ritual.)
If this plug falls off the end of the 5mm Allen wrench/socket, you will need to fish around inside the sump with a magnet to locate and extract it.
Allow the oil to all drain. There is about one quart in the crankcase.
Next move over to the oil filter on the other side of the bike. I do this while the rest of the oil drains through the plug openings.
I use heavy duty aluminum foil to protect the exhaust and form a drain path below the oil filter. This makes clean-up very easy.
The dealer used a rag and cardboard.
Carefully clean the area around the edge, where the oil filter gasket seats to the engine.
Lubricate the new oil filter gasket with a drop of oil on your finger.
Install the new oil filter and torque to 11 NM. This seems like it is loose, but it is the correct torque.
Replace the 5mm crankcase oil plug carefully and torque to 12 NM.
N.B.: There is no washer or gasket with the crankcase plug. The proper torque will be met with very little pressure.
Clean the sump plug opening well. Replace the crush washer on the sump oil plug with a new one. Clean any metal from the sump oil plug magnet. Replace the sump plug and torque to 28 NM.
N.B.: When you are tightening the sump plug with a new crush washer, you will "feel" the washer seat as you tighten it. I torque the plug a few times to be certain that the seating occurs, and that the proper torque has been met.
Add 4 quarts of oil to the dip stick opening. I use a paper funnel to make it easier, then throw away the funnel.
N.B.: 4 quarts will fill the sump to almost flowing out of the dip stick opening. This is why the last quart is added after running the engine.
I get them here:
Paper Refill Funnels, 50 Count - Griot's Garage
Insert and tighten the dip stick.
Start the engine and run the engine for 30 seconds to a minute. This pumps the new oil through the oil filter and fills the crankcase, making room for you to top off the oil level.
Stop the engine, remove the dip stick and add the last 3/4 to 1 quart of oil.
N.B.: There is a discussion about the exact amount to ad after an oil change. The Owners Manual says 4.5 liters, or 4.755 US quarts. My dealer told me they use 5 quarts, so that is what I have done. I don't think that the exact volume is critical because this is a sump design. The crankcase volume is critical because of the splashing needed to cool and lubricate. That crankcase volume is set by the design and constant regardless of the sump volume. I let my engine drain a long time, and rock the bike on the center stand to get out every bit I can.
N.B.: You can't get a correct oil level measurement unless the engine is at full operating temperature, as evidenced by the cooling fan being on. You then shut off the engine and wait 60 seconds before taking the oil level measurement with the bike on level land and on the center stand.