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Changing Your Own Oil - Tools & Tips

90K views 220 replies 59 participants last post by  XPLSV 
#1 ·
I have received a number of requests for more information about changing your own oil. In reality, it is easy to do, and can save yourself a lot of money. Besides, you can use better quality oil when you do it yourself. There is also a certain level of bonding that occurs (for me anyway).

Here are the tools required.





Here is what the parts inside the bike look like:





While many here have a motorcycle lift, I just place the bike on the center stand and lay a big piece of cardboard on the ground on the righthand side of the bike.





With the drain pan located on the left side of the bike, I reach under and loosen the 8mm sump drain plug just a little.

Then, remove the socket driver and use the 8mm socket to remove the plug with the pan below ready to receive about a gallon of oil very fast.



Let this oil drain long enough to where there are but slow drops falling.

Next reach up inside the sump about 3" with a 5mm Allen wrench, feeling your way inside the small crankcase oil plug.



This is the tool my dealer uses.



Carefully loosen and remove the plug straight down without dropping it.


(Note how clean the oil is. That oil had maybe 20 miles on it. All part of the break-in ritual.)

If this plug falls off the end of the 5mm Allen wrench/socket, you will need to fish around inside the sump with a magnet to locate and extract it.

Allow the oil to all drain. There is about one quart in the crankcase.

Next move over to the oil filter on the other side of the bike. I do this while the rest of the oil drains through the plug openings.

I use heavy duty aluminum foil to protect the exhaust and form a drain path below the oil filter. This makes clean-up very easy.

The dealer used a rag and cardboard.





Carefully clean the area around the edge, where the oil filter gasket seats to the engine.

Lubricate the new oil filter gasket with a drop of oil on your finger.



Install the new oil filter and torque to 11 NM. This seems like it is loose, but it is the correct torque.

Replace the 5mm crankcase oil plug carefully and torque to 12 NM.

N.B.: There is no washer or gasket with the crankcase plug. The proper torque will be met with very little pressure.

Clean the sump plug opening well. Replace the crush washer on the sump oil plug with a new one. Clean any metal from the sump oil plug magnet. Replace the sump plug and torque to 28 NM.

N.B.: When you are tightening the sump plug with a new crush washer, you will "feel" the washer seat as you tighten it. I torque the plug a few times to be certain that the seating occurs, and that the proper torque has been met.

Add 4 quarts of oil to the dip stick opening. I use a paper funnel to make it easier, then throw away the funnel.

N.B.: 4 quarts will fill the sump to almost flowing out of the dip stick opening. This is why the last quart is added after running the engine.



I get them here:
Paper Refill Funnels, 50 Count - Griot's Garage

Insert and tighten the dip stick.

Start the engine and run the engine for 30 seconds to a minute. This pumps the new oil through the oil filter and fills the crankcase, making room for you to top off the oil level.

Stop the engine, remove the dip stick and add the last 3/4 to 1 quart of oil.

N.B.: There is a discussion about the exact amount to ad after an oil change. The Owners Manual says 4.5 liters, or 4.755 US quarts. My dealer told me they use 5 quarts, so that is what I have done. I don't think that the exact volume is critical because this is a sump design. The crankcase volume is critical because of the splashing needed to cool and lubricate. That crankcase volume is set by the design and constant regardless of the sump volume. I let my engine drain a long time, and rock the bike on the center stand to get out every bit I can.

N.B.: You can't get a correct oil level measurement unless the engine is at full operating temperature, as evidenced by the cooling fan being on. You then shut off the engine and wait 60 seconds before taking the oil level measurement with the bike on level land and on the center stand.
 
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#3 ·
As most here know, I have changed my oil numerous times since the bike came home from the dealer. Part of my elaborate break-in ritual.

I found that laying on the floor, carefully removing the 5mm crankcase oil plug to be more error prone than I cared for. So, you will find a thread where I went through lengthy discussions about a better kind of crankcase oil plug BMW could have used. I made several modifications to a BMW plug, and offered a couple versions to forum members.

Here is a photo of the three main oil plug versions, and the tools required to remove them.



The center modified oil plug worked perfect. That was until two different BMW mechanics decided to be ham fisted when installing the plug back into the crankcase. They over torqued the plug, twisting it out of shape like a corkscrew. When they next tried to remove the plug the Allen key broke off.

That is when I created the last version of my oil plug. One made from a tool steel socket drive metric plug and a 10mm socket welded together. (The socket is cut down in a lathe to be the correct length before welding.) This latest version is BMW mechanic proof because it is several times stronger than the threads of the crankcase.

I like this design best because I use a 1/4" socket extension to remove the new plug. The socket extension locks into place, just like any other socket onto a socket wrench. That way either removing the crankcase plug, or reinstalling it, the plug can't go anywhere, it is secured.

Now, there is no more anxiety about dropping the 5mm crankcase oil plug. :clap:

There is also no more concern about allowing a BMW mechanic touch the plug. :cool:
 
#4 ·
Great info, Robert.

For the inner oil plug, I use an extended 5mm allen socket. Never had any issue with it.

You can get them at Sears, Grainger, or any place that sells a decent variety of tools. For this application, I prefer the ones without the ball end, as you're gong straight in and the square end gives a bit more purchase and stability.

 
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#5 ·
There is also a certain level of bonding that occurs (for me anyway).
Nice write-up RL. I always enjoy how you go the extra mile - or two! :)
I have the first version of the modified plug and it works well. Since I'll be handling all the oil changes there's no issue with over-torquing.

And I too, enjoy working on the bike. Even in a 100 degree garage. It's what I've always called my therapy.
 
#7 ·
How do you clear the service due code to turn out the reminder light?
I have that done when I get new tires. Since I change my oil and tires at the end of each big ride, it works out well. Besides, I have an ability to ignore dash codes. ;)

I posted the cost for the connection to the mother ship and code clearing somewhere else here. I think it was about $20.
 
#8 ·
You can see in the photo below how there are four side streams of oil around the main oil flow. This is due to the four upright forks which are to act as guides for the crankcase oil plug. Forks that could go a lot higher than they do. One time while changing the oil I twitched a bit as I removed my first modified crankcase oil plug. This allowed the flat part of the plug to catch on the top of one of the forks, pulling it off the socket. :(

Thankfully, the design worked as planned and the Allen key extension pulled the plug straight down into the center of the forks. With my little finger I was able to move the Allen key end and the plug fell through the sump drain opening.

There are two guys on this forum who have dropped their stock BMW crankcase oil plugs while removing them. Fortunately each was able to fish around in the sump and retrieve the plug with a wand mounted magnet.

I don't know about you, but sometimes while laying on the floor, messing with everything needed to drain the hot oil into a pan which is only leaves a couple inches to work between, a twitch or fumble can happen. I like having a crankcase oil plug that has no choice but to follow my hand. By having the 1/4" drive extension locked onto the plug, there is zero change of losing it.



I have no interest in balancing an oil plug on the top of an Allen key after having done it five times. I have better things to do than to try and retrieve a plug with a magnet, or worse yet, haul the bike to the dealer to have the sump removed to find the loose plug.
 
#10 ·
#18 ·
For some strange reason I care about getting the torque right when working on the K1600, where as way back when I was wrenching on dirt bikes I never gave proper torque a thought. Probably the price difference. ;)

The beam torque wrenches are simple and reliable. As reviews and testing has shown, the spring style torque wrenches can be inaccurate, as well as require maintenance.

My current interest in torque has led me to purchase an electronic device. If it is accurate on the first day, I assume it will remain accurate enough for the useful life of the device.

I found this digital add-on for $59, with free shipping in eBay.





The 3/8" model handles all the torque values I have on the K16. Now, instead of reading the dial, I will get a tone when the right torque has been met.

http://www.acdelco-tools.com/download/ARM602-4 flyer_2012V_LR.pdf
 
#21 ·
For some strange reason I care about getting the torque right when working on the K1600...............
The 3/8" model handles all the torque values I have on the K16. Now, instead of reading the dial, I will get a tone when the right torque has been met.
We all should apply the correct torque settings when working on these fine machines. That's why the manufacturer shares the values. No longer is it appropriate to simply "cinch a bolt down".

I've seen these standalone devices before and find them intriguing. My only question would be how they work in tight confines.
 
#19 ·
This has been discussed elsewhere in the forum, but bears repeating on this thread. Some sort of diffuser screen will keep the initial burst of draining oil from splashing out of the drain pan.

The first time I changed the oil in my garage, I had hot oil literally leap out of the drain pan and all over the place. What a mess. :mad:

I took a little round oil filter drain and placed it on the bottom of the drain pan. Problem solved. Another forum member uses a piece of wire screen on the top of the drain pan. This would serve to catch the drain plug should it slip through your fingers too.
 
#20 ·
#25 ·
R L, thanks for the nice "How to" write up. It was nice to have all of the pictures before doing it my first time. I had to "pull out" just before 4 qts of oil were put back in. To be safe, next time I'm going to stop at 3.5-3.75, run the engine, then put the rest in.

This also gave me to put in the latest version of your plug that I got from you. Although I had no problems getting the stock one out, I'll have a lot more piece of mind on the next oil change.

Texas
 
#26 ·
I'm making a change to the mix of oil I'm using for oil changes, after my conversation with the Amsoil technical support. 2 quarts fo 20-50 & 3 quarts of 10-40. Both excellent on their own, and together providing some added high temperature protection. Blending is fine because they are the same oil, just with slightly different formulations.

 
#28 ·
5 quarts? The manual shows 4.75 quarts.

I let the bike drain a long time, often hours. I rock the bike to get all the oil out the the nook and crannies. 5 quarts works fine for me.

Recall that this is a wet sump design. The exact amount of oil just isn't critical. The bike design, having a separate crankcase oil compartment, keeps the exact oil level for the important splashing action of the crankshaft.

The critical aspect of oil is to select an oil that matches the very important specifications of JASO MA2 for our wet clutch. This specification is what the operation of the clutch is built around. After that, I prefer to buy the very best oil I can find to make certain that there is optimum lubrication.
 
#29 ·
Here are my two charts I modified. Charts from two Amsoil SAE test white papers. The modification I made was to remove the cost from the equation because I don't care what the oil costs, within reason.


Gear Oil


Engine Oil (10-40 Study)

I can provide either white paper to you if you would like to read the entire study.
 
#30 ·
Proper lubrication is critical. Let's have a look at the K1600 engine from a couple different perspectives.



You can see how the crankcase sits above the oil sump. That is why we have a separate crankcase drain plug, with the access up inside the sump itself. While it may be a challenge accessing the crankcase drain plug, this system is very clever in that it is compact and effective.



The oil pump draws oil from the oil sump and lubricates the various systems inside the engine, including the transmission. At the same time the oil pump keeps the crankcase filled with the proper amount of oil. Too little there and there isn't enough for the spinning crankshaft to splash the cooling/lubricating oil where it needs to work. Too much in the sump could theoretically flood all the way up and above the edge of the crankcase drain point. I suspect that it would take a lot of extra oil to do this because this long six cylinder engine is designed to lean from side to side and not flood any part of the engine.





Other motorcycles with a wet clutch sit low. Note how our clutch sits so high, which allows for us to better hear the operations. Not as loud as the Ducatis with a dry clutch though.



How the crankcase oil drains back. I suspect that there is a similar separation between each cylinder.

 
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