Radar detector install help and thoughts - Page 5 - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #41 of 51 Old 09-01-2017, 06:41 PM
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I have a MAX460 mounted on the bars next to my wired iPhone. I use the Escort I've app on the phone to see where the issues are before the radar goes off, where speed cameras and ref light cameras and speed traps are and as an easy to read Speedo. I get bluetoothed voice warnings so no need to pay attention to every warning or flashing light. Kay band warning gets my attention. I look at the app. If the signal dies quickly or is week, I can ignore it. If it is strong or stays, I'm reacting. Here are pics of my set up.
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post #42 of 51 Old 09-11-2017, 03:25 PM
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Can I wire into the SAE plug? That's the one thing almost all of my bikes have in common that would allow for an easy install.
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post #43 of 51 Old 10-05-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nzbevan View Post
Today, I installed a radar detector on a bike for the first time.

My bike is a 2017 (facelift) K1600GT, and the radar detector a new Valentine One.

The radar detector needs to be easily moved from vehicle to vehicle. The others are cars and I didn't want some unsightly attachment used for the bike mount to be on the detector when it's up on my cars' windscreens. The mount I chose for the bike enables the detector to be instantly removed and reattached, while leaving only a slim, nearly invisible magnetic plate attached to the underside. If you care about aesthetics, this ought to work for you.

I used a number of accessories to install the Valentine on the bike, several of which I learned about through this site.

You can see photos of the installation attached, and below is a list of all hardware I bought.

Prices, where quoted, were current at the time I ordered them - July 2017 - and exclude any sales tax or shipping (except Visual Alert), and are in USD. Click the underlined links to be taken to the page on the seller's website with the very item I bought. (I hope the links work for a long time).

1. Valentine One ESP radar detector, obviously

2. Visual Alert for Valentine One by Mark Parnes. You won't hear your detector when riding. This ingenious adaptor turns sound into very bright red light within your field of vision.

As Mark Parnes' prices include shipping, your price depends, of course, on where you are. $59-$65.

Radar Detector Visual Alert for Motorcycles

2. Valentine Audio Adaptor - item 20200 (Valentine's SKU). This is required for the Visual Alert to work.

$49.00. I suggest Amazon (you'll pay slightly more, but have an easier experience).

3. Ram mount with Power Plate

Part# RAM-B-174-300-1U

RAM Brake/Clutch Reservoir Mount with Power Plate? III Radar Detector Holder Unpackaged - RAM-B-174-300-1U | RAM Mounts

$51.49

4. Power lead: Powerlet 36" curly cord from Powerlet who, it appears, make the socket on the bike that we're using here for power - as well as, plugs to go in it, and complete leads with plugs on the other end for various gadgets including V1.

Powerlet Low Profile Plug to RJ11 36" Charging Cable - Powerlet Products

This plugs directly into the power socket beside the fuel tank. Note, I bought the wrong one. This 36in curly cord is way too long - go for the 12in one if you're going to mount the audio adaptor on the right hand side of the fairing as I did (and I can't see why one would do otherwise).

The 12" one is here: Powerlet Low Profile Plug to RJ11 12" Charging Cable - Powerlet Products

$29.95 regardless of length

The Ram mount makes it possible for the radar detector to have a more or less unobstructed view forward and back, which you want. The only things in front are part of the windscreen, and the radio aerial. The only thing behind, potentially at times, is one's own right elbow.

Important notes re: Ram mount installation

Note: Your method of mounting the Ram mount may somewhat differ from the following if you have a pre-facelift K1600, or a facelift K1600 with Emergency Call function (whose control panel takes up the space I used) which I understand are for Northern-Hemisphere markets only. If you have one of the above bikes, I suggest you look elswehere in this forum, or do your own assessment.

This Ram mount comes with multiple items in the packet so that the mount can be fitted to various motorcycles.

For the facelift 2017 K1600GT (sans Emergency Call) that I have, I found only one method of mounting works:

In broad brush strokes: You'll need to modify the effective length of two bolts, use two spacers, and mount the Ram mount over the top of the brake assembly clamp on the rear face of the handlebars.

Specifically, you'll be using a matching pair of straight bolts, that is, the mid-size pair of the three pairs in the packet from Ram, because the thread of the longest and shortest straight bolts they supply do not match this bike's brake handle assembly thread, and the U bolts just won't fit this bike's handlebars at all as there's no room between the bars and the brake or clutch fluid tanks etc. That middle-length pair of straight bolts supplied are however 3mm too short for your needs here, that is, that is, as supplied, there's 3mm less thread going into the brake handle/tank assembly than is the case before any modifications. (You'll be passing the bolts through the RAM mount, the spacers, and the BMW clamp. You can't put these bolts straight in without the BMW clamp, as you'd then also have to skip the spacers, and the bolts then will be way too long).

The most important thing here, more than having a radar detector on your bike, is that you don't want your brake handle/brake fluid tank coming off in the middle of braking as you will then be completely unable to operate the front brake right when you need it, which will, without a doubt, be your biggest problem ever! So we want to make sure the amount of thread going in here is the same as there is in unmodified form.

The solution was to go get bolts with matching thread, but about 3mm longer; or spacers matching those supplied, but about 3mm shorter; or to cut down the supplied spacers by about 3mm. I chose the latter route. The result (of any of these three approaches) means that the same amount of thread can be screwed into the brake assembly as was screwed in by the original bolts before any changes. Please do your own check, as your safety is vital, and I accept no liability. It's up to you. If you can find identical spacers but for being approx. 3mm shorter, you'll have an easier job mounting.

Re: the Mark Parnes Visual Alert

The shape of the nylon "box" the LEDs are in doesn't exactly suit any place on the bike, in that, ideally, you'd want a large surface area of the box for the velcro attachment to the bike, but if you go with the obvious, which is the slanted edge behind the LEDs, they won't be facing you directly. To make sure they face me, I cut up the supplied velcro and fit it to the two thinner edges of the "box" (5mm or so wide) so its two surfaces - rear, and bottom, are attached to your bike with the LED's aimed at your visor. Fit it atop your tachometer (on the facelift K, at least). In the photo attached that shows it lit, it doesn't look very bright, but believe me, the camera just dulled it down. it's extremely bright in real life.

As for the Audio Adaptor

Connect power to this. Connect the Visual Alert to the "ACC" socket and the Valentine One to "Main". Turn the volume on the Audio Adaptor up to the maximum. (Too much below that and the lights won't come on.)

Like the Valentine One, the Audio Adaptor is not waterproof. What to do? 1. Easy. I'm sure you never exceed the speed limit in the rain. So once it gets a little precipitous, put the V1 in your jacket, a pannier, or somewhere else out of the rain. 2. Mount the Audio Adaptor under something, like I did, or cover it permanently with a plastic something. You should find it unnecessary to ever touch the knob on this, so a covering that doesn't permit adjustment of volume etc should present no problems.

Sundry

There's too much cable. Even if you get the shorter length of Powerlet cable you'll find this the case. I used a lot of cable ties to tidy it all up, but as I know a cabling guy, I'm going to borrow his RJ11 crimping tool and get a couple of RJ11 plugs, cut off some lengths of cables and fit new plugs. At present, all that surplus cable is neatly cable-tied together and stuffed into the cavity between the main fairing and the right hand pull-out airflow adjuster that the manual says only to open when you're not in motion (do you follow that rule?)

The total price I paid for mounting and connecting was: $195.44 (to which, add shipping and the cost of a torx driver/bit, cable ties, and something to cut down the length of the mount's included nylon spacers by about 3mm if you don't find shorter spacers or longer bolts with correct thread. This doesn't include the cost of the radar detector.

The work was fun.

I hope this all helps a few people! Thanks to all those on this site who helped me by leading the way on some of this stuff. This is my way of giving back.

If you're in New Zealand as I am, call/text me on 021 2266133 for a much more cost effective way to buy a Valentine V1 detector customised for NZ conditions than buying retail at NZ$1200. That's just nuts.

UPDATE

I've moved the visual alert to the top of the instrument panel, so that it's closer to my line of sight. This position works well: with the array situated "just so", the chips right at the back of the LEDs are pointed almost directly into my retinas...

*See photo attached*

I also got the right (Torx) screwdriver bit, undid the screw you can see bottom left of the photo, wiggled the plastic piece away a little, and ran the visual alert wire around the back of it. It's perfect now.
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post #44 of 51 Old 02-19-2018, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6xGrins View Post
it appears not all diagrams made it
Hi 6xGrins,
I am in the process of installing a 4 USB hub on my bike to get power for various toys for the May TTD Trip.
On your drawings you identified the Aukey 4 USB hub.
Did you actually install the Hubs on your bike?
If yes, where did you install the hub in the front of your bike?
Did you waterproof it in anyway or form?
Did you potentially open it up to connect it straight to the power vs. going through a cigarette charger?
And if you could provide any pictures of your install that would be highly appreciated.


Thanks

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2014 K1600 GTL totaled
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1994 GTS1000 - sold
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post #45 of 51 Old 02-22-2018, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Hi @pullb0x , sorry for delay, was on travel for work. Yes, I installed two of the Aukey USB hubs and so far, they’re working great.

At the suggestion of @MountainGT , I installed the front one on the outer faring, to the upper left of the speaker housing. This way, it’s accessible by removing the speaker cover only, which is handy for adding removing farckles.

I took apart and hard wired, or more accurately @Gunnert , soldered the wires to the barely solderable terminals on both.

I water proofed it in two ways: I added some electrical putty to the end that we soldered. And then on the USB ends, got a pack of dust covers off amazon: 20 Pcs Black Rubber USB A Type Female Anti Dust Plugs Stopper Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGOOU20..._O91JAbM8SR5NA

I won’t say either makes it “waterproof” but it helps detour or route water a bit.

I don’t have pictures handy, but I’ll try for some this weekend or next week. Some additional thoughts:
- check your charging amperage requirements and plan accordingly. You may be able to get away with a cheaper charger with smaller foot print
- the “new” aukey 4x on amazon is actually smaller and sleeker, but it doesn’t have the detachable end cap the old ones did, making the soldering a bit more of a chore. I just replaced the old ones i had in the cars with the new ones and yay. Just be aware of the dissection ease if you go the solder route.
- my second one is in the back, under passenger seat along with other do dads.

Happy to answer other questions, if any


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Justin / 2015 K1600GT
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post #46 of 51 Old 02-23-2018, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6xGrins View Post
Hi @pullb0x , sorry for delay, was on travel for work. Yes, I installed two of the Aukey USB hubs and so far, they’re working great.

At the suggestion of @MountainGT , I installed the front one on the outer faring, to the upper left of the speaker housing. This way, it’s accessible by removing the speaker cover only, which is handy for adding removing farckles.

I took apart and hard wired, or more accurately @Gunnert , soldered the wires to the barely solderable terminals on both.

I water proofed it in two ways: I added some electrical putty to the end that we soldered. And then on the USB ends, got a pack of dust covers off amazon: 20 Pcs Black Rubber USB A Type Female Anti Dust Plugs Stopper Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGOOU20..._O91JAbM8SR5NA

I won’t say either makes it “waterproof” but it helps detour or route water a bit.

I don’t have pictures handy, but I’ll try for some this weekend or next week. Some additional thoughts:
- check your charging amperage requirements and plan accordingly. You may be able to get away with a cheaper charger with smaller foot print
- the “new” aukey 4x on amazon is actually smaller and sleeker, but it doesn’t have the detachable end cap the old ones did, making the soldering a bit more of a chore. I just replaced the old ones i had in the cars with the new ones and yay. Just be aware of the dissection ease if you go the solder route.
- my second one is in the back, under passenger seat along with other do dads.

Happy to answer other questions, if any


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

hmmm I thought I replied already but my post just "disappeared". Weird.

Hi @6xGrins
thanks for the reply and details.

Meanwhile I figured out the same route you were going.
I opened up the speaker housing as well and thought that to be a perfect spot.

Unfortunately, opening up the Aukey 4x did not go as planned.
I thought I could open it up, maybe shorten it a bit and simply solder my cables directly onto the board and remove the metal clips etc.
But that is not that easy. There is a resistor and / or condensator also hidden in between them.
That's how they look open.
So I probably just wasted $16. (Think about all the money we spend on our Education. )

While at it I see if I can remove them to get a better view of the board below.

Thanks again


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post #47 of 51 Old 04-02-2018, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6xGrins View Post
it appears not all diagrams made it
That is an electronics store on two wheels. Wow
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post #48 of 51 Old 04-03-2018, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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@ViennaK - version two is underway lol!

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post #49 of 51 Old 04-04-2018, 10:01 AM
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This is an easy way to provide USB power using the BMW/Powerlet on the RHS fairing. Works very well with the CANBUS.

https://tecmate.com/products/optimate-usb-o-105/

On Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-3300.../dp/B01GSCKJWC

WebBikeWorld Review
https://www.webbikeworld.com/tecmate...05-usb-review/

Andy
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ALTRider Engine Guard and Illium Rear Tip-Over Bars. Adaptiv TPX Radar Detector and SPOT Gen 3
TopSpeed LED high beam bulbs, Clearwater Ericas and Darlas, Billie Brake Light with CANopener 4. Skene P3 Rear Brake Lights and Photon Blaster Turn signals with PDM60. Sargent Seat.
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post #50 of 51 Old 04-05-2018, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Just be aware that canbus can shut that port down if it draws over 2A. So if you plan to use that adapter to full 3.3A capacity, it may not be reliable.

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