***SOLVED*** Overheating Issue ***SOLVED*** - Page 2 - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #11 of 66 Old 07-02-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vandaldog View Post
I'll play devil's advocate. This is a high-revving engine. Aren't you robbing Peter to pay Paul by lugging it? I'm not saying that the suggested procedure isn't valuable in certain situations but if this is done too often, is it not hard on the engine and drivetrain?

Okay, I'm ready. Start throwing the flames my way.
I am not suggesting you should be lugging the engine. With little or no throttle to produce power and barely at an idle, it actually runs very smoothly. If you try to give it too much juice all at once at such a low power setting, yah... You'll lug it... however, with a very light touch on the throttle and a quick down shift, if necessary, you won't be straining it at all.

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post #12 of 66 Old 07-02-2019, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by StephenV View Post
I am not suggesting you should be lugging the engine. With little or no throttle to produce power and barely at an idle, it actually runs very smoothly. If you try to give it too much juice all at once at such a low power setting, yah... You'll lug it... however, with a very light touch on the throttle and a quick down shift, if necessary, you won't be straining it at all.
Okay, I'll buy that.

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post #13 of 66 Old 07-02-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vandaldog View Post
I'll play devil's advocate. This is a high-revving engine. Aren't you robbing Peter to pay Paul by lugging it? I'm not saying that the suggested procedure isn't valuable in certain situations but if this is done too often, is it not hard on the engine and drivetrain?

Okay, I'm ready. Start throwing the flames my way.
Oh... and I am not suggesting you do this all the time... Only in those situations where you know it is going to start throwing red triangles at you if you continue like you are...

Otherwise wring the piss out of it like it was intended.
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post #14 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 12:49 AM
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Makes sense to me, especially with how close the bore spacing is on this engine. There's friction and where there's friction there's heat, not to mention combustion. Now the faster the pistons are firing means the heat is being generated more often. What I'm interested in is if at high rpm's cavitation is occurring like it does in diesel engines. This will in time without Nalcool, DCA additive, or treated long life coolant cause pin holes in the cylinder liners. This all depends on how much vibration is going on in the cylinder once it fires. I'm sure it's no where near what diesels experience but I still wonder if it does not happen to some degree in this close bore spaced engine.


Just some random thoughts from my pea brain. Also I never saw the oil cooler fan helping a whole lot. It takes time to transfer heat to cool oil. I doubt we could mount a cooler big enough to transfer the heat fast enough. Obviously just a guess as I haven't tried it.

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post #15 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 01:07 AM
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I ride a lot in the Alps with ample opportunities to slow down to a crawl after some spirited rising. As much as I agree to keep the rpms down under light load, I disagree howver with the idea of putting it in a tall gear going downhill as a general principle to reduce engine heat.
Depending on the grade this can be a dangerous preposition as a some point you have to scrub speed with the brakes and nothing is worse for overheating the brakes than constantly applying little pressure to modulate speed. Further, my observation on steeper downhill grades is, that the engine coasting at 3000-4000 rpm actually cools down quickly because there is enough airflow, higher water pump flow and no combustion heat. On moderate slopes I have no experience.


But thank you for the experienced based recommendations. Will try it out.
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post #16 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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As much as I agree to keep the rpms down under light load, I disagree howver with the idea of putting it in a tall gear going downhill as a general principle to reduce engine heat.
Please show me where I suggested that. Seriously. Not being a smartass here. If there was something in what I said suggested coasting downhill in high gear I want to fix that. Never found it necessary to do that because the naturally reduced load on the engine doesn't put us into an 'overheating' condition.

It was pointed out on a FB group that what I *really* meant was that all we need to do is reduce the load on the engine, which is true. My intent for sharing this technique was to explain in manner much more clearly stated than what is found in the MOM on HOW to reduce that load. "If possible, continue driving in the part-load range to cool down the engine." indeed....

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post #17 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 04:52 AM
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I have had three K16's, a 2012, a 2015 and now a 2017. All Gt's and the last two sports. The only one that NEVER overheated was the 2015 bike. I put a Rad Guard on that one.

The 2017 bike overheated in Nancy (France) last year, it was 37 degrees C, so pretty warm. Our guide went to the wrong hotel, then he remembered the hotel we should have been at and took off, I was behind him. I got caught behind a bus going up a hill and it overheated. I had to follow the bus to the top of the hill with 10 other bikes behind me, we got passed the bus and I guess I am lucky it did not go into limp mode.

I will probably move to an RT next year, if I got another K16, I would put a Rad Guard on it and take pleasure in burning the SOLID BLACK MUDGUARD THAT IS UP THE CENTER OF THE RADIATOR.

I have never seen any other bike or vehicle designed with a BIT OF SOLID PLASTIC up the center of a Radiator.

I would love BMW to explain why a bike, so fickle to overheating, needs that guard.
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post #18 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 06:43 AM
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I think the OP is only suggesting this alternative when in traffic at slow speeds where you can't generate speed that will actually cool the engine the correct way.
Instead of going 25mph in a low gear and getting the RPM's up, he's suggesting using a higher gear and keeping the RPM's low thus keeping the engine temp lower.
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post #19 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 08:09 AM
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I see this as another tool for working with this beast. I take nothing as gospel; one has to use their own judgment. We are in the hottest part of our year, and as I mentioned I do get overheated leaving Boston on occasion.

Not to steal the thread but along the lines of sh1t I didn't know: I have information (yet tested) that the B/GA will adjust idle if it feels the bike is moving too slowly (within a range I imagine). I have been working on my parking lot skills, tightening my turns to the stops now. I struggled with an oscillating idle point at very slow speeds. I have been told the B/GA has enough torque to idle in second and maneuver correctly without throttle input. I have it that the bike will pick up the idle if my turns are too steep for the speed.

Huh?
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post #20 of 66 Old 07-03-2019, 08:15 AM
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I like this theory and am going to give it a try. My problem times have been mostly traffic jams. Also hill climbing. Not sure how high of a gear I could have been when going up "going to the sun road" at slow speed without stalling.
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