Wiring Locations - Sena, Motochello, CAN4 - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #1 of 16 Old 01-05-2020, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring Locations - Sena, Motochello, CAN4

Start time for the winter wiring project for my 2019 GTL. I have Darby’s radar shelf in place for my Escort Max 360 and tomorrow Clearwater is installing my Erica/Darla/Billie lights with the CANOpener 4. I have a Motochello bridge arriving this coming week and I have the Sena SM10 transmitter in hand. I have read several threads with examples folks have used for their particular situation and have typically seen the Motochello unit under the seat, saw a nice direct mount to a specific fuse for the radar detectors and have seen a lot of people trying various things with the Sena SM10 trying to get a solid connection to their pillion rider. I do have a set of Cardo PackTalk Bold for the helmets. I think the frustrating piece, for most, has been the Sena SM10 transmitter location. Looking for your most recent options on what has/has not worked, also with regard to the CAN4, for those of you that might be using that. I’ll certainly be asking Clearwater tomorrow with regard to tapping in or staying away from the actual CAN4 harness.

Bernie
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-05-2020, 08:41 PM
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I mounted my Sena SM10 under the seat (tucked under the metal cross brace) along with the Motochello bridge. I used this cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to power the SM10 from a switched source (I have the FZ-1 Fuzeblocks installed under the right side cover commonly called the "canoe"). https://www.fuzeblocks.com/Fuzeblock...Block_p_1.html This is an analog power distribution box with a built in relay for switched power. By moving the fuses to one of two locations you can easily make a circuit either hot all the time or only when the key is on. It has 6 circuits and is easy to wire up with 3 wires, plus, negative and trigger wire for the relay.

I opened the SM10 case and unplugged the battery, left it in the case and closed it up. By doing this the SM10 comes on when you turn the bike on and goes out when you shut off the bike. If you leave the battery connected it will stay on when you shut off your bike and run off the battery. After several hours the battery will go dead. The next time you run your bike the SM10 won't fire up until the battery is recharged
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Last edited by Arizona Jim; 01-05-2020 at 08:48 PM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-06-2020, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jim. I like that Fuzeblock—hadn’t seen that one before. You’ve got me straight on the battery removal in the Sena unit—I remember reading about that before, but now my understanding of the battery removal is clear.

Unloaded the bike from the trailer and cleaned it up a bit before enjoying a short ride in near 60 degree weather this afternoon. Clearwater tomorrow, Russell on Tuesday. Had 60+ mph winds causing near white-out conditions in Wyoming on Friday along I-80...and that was just snow from the ground! Driving conditions were much more pleasant on Saturday.
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-06-2020, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XPLSV View Post
I think the frustrating piece, for most, has been the Sena SM10 transmitter location. Looking for your most recent options on what has/has not worked
If you want to use a single SM10 to reliably stream to both rider and pillion, mounting it under the seat or either canoe is a no-no. It needs to be out in the open. If you wish to use it to stream to the rider only, it will happily work located under the seat or in either canoe.

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post #5 of 16 Old 01-06-2020, 06:39 PM
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Prevailing wisdom is to have your BT toys accessible to deal with connectivity issues with greater ease. An extra hour (or less) in wiring to get them somewhere up front (sides, dash) will save your significant time down the road.

I personally had me SM10 under the seat and it worked most the time. And I got really used to popping my seat off and hitting the button when it didnít. But now have the SR10 mounted on the dash and when it doesnít connect I just reach forward and mash the button. Way better. You can also see the lights to confirm status- helpful in troubleshooting.

Lastly, the motochello has a built in ground isolator. If you connect something else to your sm10, I recommend another ground loop isolator before the sm10.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-06-2020, 07:44 PM
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SM10 mounted under my seat...works fine there. Wireless remote in line with the positive lead so I can restart it those occasional times when it loses pairing. Fob for the remote attached to key ring.

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post #7 of 16 Old 01-07-2020, 01:20 PM
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There is alot of good info on this thread. Some of which I will steal. Some of what I did, I did see here. But I only glanced over this. Just in case.
My goal has been to keep the bike functioning as it was designed but make it actually work. So on that note I built a jumper between the radio and the speakers. BMW has repair connectors that make it plug and play. I am torn between that or pulling the speakers to stuff in HID lights.
Happy with the SM10 location making it removable. Happy with the jumper. Not with the Moto Chello but quick and dirty. Problem is having to pull the seat to switch making it not very useful..
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-07-2020, 05:56 PM
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My SM10 and Motochello speaker bridge are under the seats. I've moved them a few different times over the years but have always had them under the seat. As you see here some have problems with the SM10 under the seats but I just completed I believe my 4th year with the SM10 and I've never had a connection problem. The only reason I've moved them from time to time is to neaten up the space but have not had any connection or reception problems.


The power source being located where Arizona Jim notes is what I've done as is true with getting power to the SM10 and removing the SM10 battery. Zero problems with this method. I've tried a few different power distribution modules over the years but do think Jim's tried and true use of the FZ-1 Fuzeblock is my favorite. Nothing against the digital, programmable options out there. I just did not find they offered any additional value over the FZ-1 and they cost more. Want more power? Use a bigger fuse. Want switched power? Change the fuse location. It is incredibly simple and affordable but other options are out there which are fine options too.
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-07-2020, 08:09 PM
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Just to be the opposite side of the coin, I have tried the SM-10 under the seat, in the right canoe, and now in the left canoe. My connection has been flawless in all 3 positions. My wife's has been sketchy at best. Looking to move the SM-10 out into the open, as this is how I had it mounted on the ST1300. Connection on that bike for her was 90%+.

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post #10 of 16 Old 01-10-2020, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlheck View Post
Just to be the opposite side of the coin, I have tried the SM-10 under the seat, in the right canoe, and now in the left canoe. My connection has been flawless in all 3 positions. My wife's has been sketchy at best. Looking to move the SM-10 out into the open, as this is how I had it mounted on the ST1300. Connection on that bike for her was 90%+.

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That generally appears to be the issue...maintaining a connection to the passenger. I don't think just a single connection to the rider seems to be a common issue.

Bernie
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