I was impressed with the video on the ADV site (www.advmonster.com/
) which introduces the series 60 LED’s being used on trail bikes in the mountains at night. Having enjoyed this sport for many years, but not at night, I can appreciate the difficulty of navigation without superior lighting. And, the price fit my budget much better than other LED lights I’m aware of.
There is a hand control offered that allows different pulsation techniques to be applied to the LED’s. Probably a really neat feature for daytime use, but I just didn’t understand how to mount this control for ease of use. So, I elected to go with a manually-operated, dial-type dimmer switch offered by ADV. This dimmer is also an Off/On switch. They offer a loose LED to install someplace so you can monitor whether your lights are on or off. I elected to go with a second Off/On switch from Autozone that had a red LED built-in. I also thought the design complimented the BMW side panel (the radio controls) design.
So, yea, the Autozone switch makes the dimmer Off/On redundant.
This is what I started with:
The biggest challenge was how to mount the lights. I hate drilling holes in my motorbikes, so the challenge was one to find an available mounting hole. What I finally decided on were the 8mm tapped holes in the cast lugs directly above #1 and #6 exhaust ports. Of course, the right side has the cam chain drive, so that bracket would have to be different than just the mirror image of the left side.
This is my final design (but not the first prototype):
The tapped holes in each bracket are not symmetrical with anything. This was to prevent interferences between the LED Lights and surrounding bike parts, and to keep both lights at equal distance from the ground.
The left LED light mounted:
And the right LED light mounted:
(Nope, any crashbar using these 8mm cast lugs on the engine are not compatible with this installation.)
The LED’s come with fairly long pigtails and I was able to route the right LED pigtail across the top of the radiator and have an extra inch or two for connection to the dimmer switch control on the left side. (Didn’t have to remove any right-side plastic.) The pigtails have a red plug already on them that mate to the red female plug on the dimmer switch.
I positioned the Autozone switch at the top of the radio-button panel and it’s “source lug” feeds the dimmer switch 12V requirement. A step drill (Harbor Freight if you don’t have one.) works best for drilling the hole for the Autozone switch. Be sure to inspect the bottom of the panel for a good location.
The down side of the dimmer switch is that it is just a block. There is no mounting bracket, groove or any other means to mount it. So, I just used 3M adhesive-backed, industrial grade hook and loop. A rubber grommet with a ¼”-hole allows pushing all the wires through and makes the penetration appearance a bit more tolerable. The location of the dimmer switch seemed reasonable for easy reach without looking. Once you’ve established a daytime running intensity, there should be little reason to change it.
Of course, one of the PDM 60 circuits (see that installation) supplies the 12V to the Autozone switch.
The dimmer switch also has a purple wire that when connected to a 12V source, immediately applies full intensity to the LED Lights. One is suppose to tap the hi-beam wire to get this so anytime you are running on high beams, the LED’s are at max. Then when you dim, they return to the set intensity.
Not knowing the design of the dimmer switch, I didn’t want too high an amperage surge on the Canbus, so I elected to introduce a SPST relay into this circuit.
On the right side of the motorbike, behind the adjustable air deflector, is a torx screw that holds a small plastic panel. Remove this screw and panel. Near the top triple clamp, in front of the handlebars, is a torx screw that secures the right speaker grill panel. Remove this screw. Now, gingerly pull the right outside of the speaker grill up and back about 2-3”. This will give you working room to access either of the two white wires that make up the high-beam circuit. Strip back some of the black sheathing covering the two white wires and use a Posi-tap to tie your new wire to one of the white ones. Route the new wire to the left side of the motorbike, coming through where the horns are and then you can group it with the other added wires for the horns and terminate it under the passenger seat.
Your new wire will be the 12V source for the new SPST relay coil. (The white wire paralleling the resistor.)
This relay is the rear-most, near the OEM plug:
This relay is fed from a circuit from the PDM 60 (see that installation) and the relay source lug is connected to the purple wire on the dimmer switch. See dimmer switch hanging loose and purple wire.
Reference the wiring diagram in the “conclusion” post. That’s it.