Electrical starting Issue? In gear - Page 3 - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #21 of 32 Old 03-13-2019, 12:28 PM
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Yes, one switch nominally open, one nominally closed. As for wiring issues, I find it very hard to accept that I damaged any wiring by attaching an autoswitch trigger to the clutch wire. This issue coincided with turning on the bike up after wiring the autoswitch. Oddly, the garage door even opened, once.

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post #22 of 32 Old 03-13-2019, 03:03 PM
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Yes, one switch nominally open, one nominally closed. As for wiring issues, I find it very hard to accept that I damaged any wiring by attaching an autoswitch trigger to the clutch wire. This issue coincided with turning on the bike up after wiring the autoswitch. Oddly, the garage door even opened, once.
Well, if the problem happened coincident with attaching something to the circuit showing the problem, that is exactly where I'd look. Perhaps the attachment of the autoswitch changed the load on the circuit in such a way as to change it functionality.
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post #23 of 32 Old 03-13-2019, 03:14 PM
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Well, if the problem happened coincident with attaching something to the circuit showing the problem, that is exactly where I'd look. Perhaps the attachment of the autoswitch changed the load on the circuit in such a way as to change it functionality.
As I said earlier in this thread, I've removed the autoswitch from the circuit and replaced the clutch switch. That did not restore operation. I'm down to somehow affecting the ECU. Anyway to "hard" reset that?

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post #24 of 32 Old 04-15-2019, 05:31 PM
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I had the same problem. Yes, I still occasionally kill it at a light when in Dynamic mode! Dang it BMW! So, I pull in the clutch and pray it starts. Nope! Lean right, hunt for neutral, listen to horns honking, hit start, punch it into 1st and try again. Embarrassing.

The issue with mine were the 'cheap' microswitches for clutch engagement detection, used by BMW. I went to buy a new set of switches online, they wanted over $70. So I began to look around. Meanwhile I unscrewed the switch, shot some electrical cleaner down into the switch and it worked for a while, until they didn't again. Typical of these cheap switches. But then I got to thinking, I should stop being so cheap. So, a few weeks later I went back to look at a new switch set online and it had gone up to over $100. HECK NO! I'm cheap, I should just own it.

Anyway, I eventually found the switches that BMW used. They are DC2C-A1LC Waterproof Subminiature Limit Switch 3Pin SPDT 10A 250V. About a buck each from China. BMW has glued two of them together side to side facing opposite direction. I bought 10.

There was a little involved in making this work. I cemented two switches together to mimic BMW's configuration.


I snipped the wires on the original. That's the original below marked 1214. The original has a box where the wires connect to the pins filled with some sort of adhesive. I continue to look for a cover for mine, but these switches are supposedly waterproof, so it is mainly for aesthetics. I determined which wire goes to which pin, by measuring continuity to each wire on the original switch (Black and Blue to 1 & 2 on top and Green and White to 1 & 3 on bottom). Then I trimmed the plunger triggers on the new switches since they were just about a quarter of an inch too long. Crimped on some electrical connectors that fit the pins of the switches.


Then plugged the wires into into my constructed switch array. Works just fine, for about $2. So, the answer for me was replace BMW's cheap limit switches.
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Joe

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post #25 of 32 Old 04-15-2019, 06:26 PM
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Hey Joe, Looks like you bought them at a good time. My bike works fine but I thought I'd do one of those pro-active things and have some on hand just in case. The best price I can find is $9.25 for 5 on ebay. Still a great price compared to OEM but after seeing that you bought 10 for 2 bucks (about a ten fold increase) I feel like I'm getting ripped off! So much for that pro-active thing.

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post #26 of 32 Old 04-15-2019, 07:33 PM
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Hey Joe, Looks like you bought them at a good time. My bike works fine but I thought I'd do one of those pro-active things and have some on hand just in case. The best price I can find is $9.25 for 5 on ebay. Still a great price compared to OEM but after seeing that you bought 10 for 2 bucks (about a ten fold increase) I feel like I'm getting ripped off! So much for that pro-active thing.
Well, grammar isn't one of my strong suites. The switches I bought were about $1.00 each so about $10 for 10. I just looked on AliExpress they are selling five for $8.60, so don't feel too bad Steve.

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post #27 of 32 Old 04-16-2019, 06:20 AM
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As I said earlier in this thread, I've removed the autoswitch from the circuit and replaced the clutch switch. That did not restore operation. I'm down to somehow affecting the ECU. Anyway to "hard" reset that?

I suspect canbus, not seeing the values it was expecting, shut down those circuits as a protection mechanism. Remember, there are no fuses in a canbus system. Whether this can be reset with a GS911 DIY I know not, but others with experience may chip in with a solution. Otherwise, I reckon you need to talk sweetly to your local dealer.
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post #28 of 32 Old 04-16-2019, 07:44 AM
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Well, grammar isn't one of my strong suites. The switches I bought were about $1.00 each so about $10 for 10. I just looked on AliExpress they are selling five for $8.60, so don't feel too bad Steve.
Your grammar is just fine, it was my speed reading (dis)abilities that came into play and when I reread your post at mere mortal speed I saw the errors of my way.

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post #29 of 32 Old 04-16-2019, 10:01 AM
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I suspect canbus, not seeing the values it was expecting, shut down those circuits as a protection mechanism. Remember, there are no fuses in a canbus system.
That is a common misconception... The reason we have so few OEM fuses (mine has seven) is NOT because it has a CANBUS, it's because it has a separate controller for power management. It is the ZFE module, not the CANBUS, that controls the power to the items typically controlled by fuses. Power sockets, lights, etc are all monitored by the ZFE. If too much or too little current is sensed, something is wrong and an alert is created. This is how your dash can tell you that you have a burned out brake light. It is also why you cannot run a full set of heated gear from the accessory socket nor add additional accessories inline with existing devices. It is best to add any auxillary items (heated gear, lights, GPS units) on their own individually fused power circuit wired directly to the battery. Using a fuseblock to accomplish this will greatly reduce the number of wires connected to the battery.

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post #30 of 32 Old 04-16-2019, 12:44 PM
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That is a common misconception... The reason we have so few OEM fuses (mine has seven) is NOT because it has a CANBUS, it's because it has a separate controller for power management. It is the ZFE module, not the CANBUS, that controls the power to the items typically controlled by fuses. Power sockets, lights, etc are all monitored by the ZFE. If too much or too little current is sensed, something is wrong and an alert is created. This is how your dash can tell you that you have a burned out brake light. It is also why you cannot run a full set of heated gear from the accessory socket nor add additional accessories inline with existing devices. It is best to add any auxillary items (heated gear, lights, GPS units) on their own individually fused power circuit wired directly to the battery. Using a fuseblock to accomplish this will greatly reduce the number of wires connected to the battery.
I think you are all saying the same thing. the term "CanBus" is often used as a cover-all system description which encompasses the items you are referring to. It's easier to think of the system that steps in where fuses used to be as the "CanBus", which is what most folks do.

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