I recently replaced the stock bleeders for these Speed Bleeders, and I am very happy with the upgrade. Cheap, easy install, and great results. Makes bleeding the brakes very simple and fast.
'Chris on the Street' SpeedBleeder Install on a BMW GT. Chris has made a lot of good GT/GTL 'how-to' videos.
It is a pretty good video, little slow but to the point, and hey, at least he made one!
One thing that isn't shown or talked about is the "flush" method. (getting all the old fluid out and new in). He is just bleeding in this video. Just bleeding is pretty much child's play with these speed bleeders installed.
To FLUSH!: You will want to dispose of the old fluid in the reservoir(s). This can be done by 2 different methods with the speed bleeders.
A) Suck out the old fluid with a turkey baster. I'd suggest not using moma's good one. On the rear, you can simply unhook the canister and dump out the old fluid in your container/jar etc. Side Note; A red solo cup will not melt w brake fluid like it does with gasoline.
B) Pump all the old fluid through while replacing new in the reservoir(s). You will see the older dark turn clean in your exiter tube.
When adding new fluid into the reservoir(s), Pump slow and smooth (handle for the front, pedal for the rear) and watch the small bubbles rise up right into the reservoir. These micro bubbles need to come out. Keep adding fluid and slowly pumping until you notice 2 things; No more bubbles and clean fluid on the bottom end.
Use rags surrounding area's, brake fluid may not melt a red solo cup, but it will DO A NUMBER on your painted surfaces.
My Tip: To get the old fluid out of the piston region (within the caliper), use a plastic door wedge or shim wedging in between pad and rotor. There's also the redneck method... remove the caliper mounting screws, while holding the caliper over the rotor, slowly shift the caliper L&R. This "pushes" inward on the brake pads pushing the pistons in while pushing out the old fluid in that region.. BE very careful (and go gently) when doing this method as you could do harm your brake pads. You would have to twist the heck out of it to bend the rotor of course, but tread lightly, you will feel the piston slowly get pushed in and your pads will have play (space between) now on the rotor. You will have to keep an angled pressure on this to keep the pistons from coming back during the brake handle pump (with speed valve 1/4 open of course), but it's not much as the open valve will take most of the pressure pumps. If you do this, expect your brake lever action on first use to be dead ass limp. Don't be alarmed but you will have to test your brakes as always prior to real-time usage. Also, recheck fluid level after this first test (valve closed, ready to use). You may find it went down some because the fluid that went into the pistons, simply top off the reservoir, noting the "Full line" mark... DO NOT OVERFILL!
Most of my bike buddies skip the caliper piston draining portion. It's up to you on how precise and clean you want the flush to be.