A couple of noob wrenching questions - Page 3 - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #21 of 32 Old 09-05-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by justcharlie View Post
Those CANBus-friendly chargers are pretty expensive, about $85 I think. Someplace in the BMW Rider's Manual, it says not to use a charger connected directly to the battery terminals unless the battery is disconnected from the motorcycle. However, I don't know why not. I do that if I'm not going to be riding for a week or more and nothing bad happens. I do make sure that I connect my $20 trickle charger after the bike has been shut down for a while so presumably the CANBus isn't active.
My bike has an SAE connector directly hooked up to the battery. Don't know what tender the previous owner used but I've been hooking it up to a Battery Tender Junior with no issues. As you point out though, it's probably safest only to do that when the bike is kept turned off in order to keep the Canbus "happy."

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Also own: 5 K75s, a K100, a K1 & 2 K1100s, WR250R
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post #22 of 32 Old 09-05-2019, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by justcharlie View Post
Those CANBus-friendly chargers are pretty expensive, about $85 I think. Someplace in the BMW Rider's Manual, it says not to use a charger connected directly to the battery terminals unless the battery is disconnected from the motorcycle. However, I don't know why not. I do that if I'm not going to be riding for a week or more and nothing bad happens. I do make sure that I connect my $20 trickle charger after the bike has been shut down for a while so presumably the CANBus isn't active.
Me too: I don't know why you cant connect directly to the battery unless there is some fear that the charger will be set on too high of a setting and wreak havoc with some of the systems that draw power all the time (even when the bike ignition is off) and maybe not through the canbus? I suspect that some chargers meant for 12 volt DC charging actually charge at higher voltages like 14 or 16.
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post #23 of 32 Old 09-05-2019, 03:54 PM
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Maybe there's a risk to some electronics if somebody hooks up a charger that has a desulfation cycle or something and BMW is just being over-protective. Both BMW motorcycles I bought new had SAE plugs wired directly to the battery terminals, installed by the dealership to the bikes that sat on the showroom floor. When the bike is rev'ed up it will have 14 volts or maybe a little more to the battery by it's own charging system, so I'm not worried about my plain old trickle charger.

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Last edited by justcharlie; 09-05-2019 at 03:57 PM.
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post #24 of 32 Old 09-06-2019, 08:01 AM
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What’s wrong with the factory plug-ins?

Get done riding,plug in the optimate. Boom. Easy breazy.


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post #25 of 32 Old 09-06-2019, 09:31 AM
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My Ctek charger is Canbus compatible too, I plug it into the fairing socket.
But when it senses the battery is fully charged, the port gets switched off, so I need to cycle the bike's power every few weeks in the depths of Winter.

Rush with hush, (and clunks).
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post #26 of 32 Old 09-06-2019, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padraig Lodbrok View Post
My Ctek charger is Canbus compatible too, I plug it into the fairing socket.
But when it senses the battery is fully charged, the port gets switched off, so I need to cycle the bike's power every few weeks in the depths of Winter.
I believe that if it is truly canbus compatible, it will keep the port open, even if full.
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post #27 of 32 Old 09-06-2019, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Quack View Post
The main reason that I want to do this is to make it easy to hook up a battery tender.

Somebody else at this forum has already done it. (Which is where I got the idea.) I don't have a link to the thread but here's a pic of someone else's install that I saved.

Just because someone else did it already doesn't mean it's a good idea, I would not mess with that bolt or back it out, there is really no reason to mount it there, you have so many other options. First option is buy a Canbus compatible charger, and just use either of the two available outlet to charge the battery. Second option which I chose, was to abandon the Canbus on the right side front cowling and replace it with a powerlet outlet directly connected to the battery. https://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-veh.../9/761#formtop

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Last edited by Northsquad; 09-06-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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post #28 of 32 Old 09-07-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Northsquad View Post
Just because someone else did it already doesn't mean it's a good idea, I would not mess with that bolt or back it out, there is really no reason to mount it there, you have so many other options. First option is buy a Canbus compatible charger, and just use either of the two available outlet to charge the battery. Second option which I chose, was to abandon the Canbus on the right side front cowling and replace it with a powerlet outlet directly connected to the battery. https://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-veh.../9/761#formtop
The powerlet looks a lot like the factory auxiliary outlet that came on one of my old air heads. Is it the same?
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post #29 of 32 Old 09-07-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Route66in18 View Post
The powerlet looks a lot like the factory auxiliary outlet that came on one of my old air heads. Is it the same?
Yeah it's perfect, just take that stupid looking sticker off of it, and it looks just like the factory plug.

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post #30 of 32 Old 09-07-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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OK, now I have it installed:




Aside from wanting it to make battery tending easy I also did this so I could charge my phone and other stuff when the bike is turned off.

When installed the ezCAN I hooked up the accessory circuit to power my RKA tank bag:



And run this in the tank bag to charge USB and other stuff:



However, since the ezCAN turns off the circuit when the bike is turned off I made this cord so I can get power to the tank bag when the bike is turned off:




For those of you commenting that you wouldn't touch that bolt: C'mon guys, it's just a bolt. Removing it and then putting it back in properly torqued is not going to make the bike implode.

And I were afraid of bolts then I wouldn't have been able to turn this K75 motor:



Into this:



It's essentially a K1100RS with a K75 motor that I built with the best parts from gawd knows how many different K bikes. In case you're wondering why I'd want a K1100RS with a smaller motor - if you've ever ridden a K1100RS then you know that they can be kind of a heavy pig in tight turns. Since this bike has a lighter motor and skinnier wheels/radials it's much easier to toss around in the turns - and K75 SMOOTH to boot. And if you know how to wring the snot out of a K75 motor (5,500-7,000 RPM) then this bike actually performs pretty well. And, as the saying goes, it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow.
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Loud pipes save egos.
2014 K1600GT Sport
IBA 17739
Also own: 5 K75s, a K100, a K1 & 2 K1100s, WR250R

Last edited by Quack; 09-07-2019 at 05:56 PM.
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