CANbus noob question - Page 2 - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #11 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 09:46 AM
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I may have dated a CanBus....
It's not spelled correctly either.
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post #12 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 10:25 AM
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CanBus senses current, it is programmed for the proper current draw of each circuit. If the current deviates beyond the acceptable levels, it will shut down the circuit.
Can't speak to other systems, but the horn will not shut down when replaced and wiring used to trigger relay. The horn circuit will throw a code and auxiliary horn will work fine.

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post #13 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 10:40 AM
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Can't speak to other systems, but the horn will not shut down when replaced and wiring used to trigger relay. The horn circuit will throw a code and auxiliary horn will work fine.

Duane
So, if you threw in a resistor on the trigger leg of a relay, which load matched the horn, do you think this would prevent the error code?

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post #14 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 12:28 PM
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So, if you threw in a resistor on the trigger leg of a relay, which load matched the horn, do you think this would prevent the error code?
Possibly... but is it worth the effort? The fault code is invisible to anything but a scanner tool (no dash indications) and it roughly translates to "Horn is missing".
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post #15 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 02:32 PM
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So, if you threw in a resistor on the trigger leg of a relay, which load matched the horn, do you think this would prevent the error code?
Yes, that would work. But as @StephenV says, why go through the trouble? Only time you know there's a trouble code is when you connect the ECU to a GS911wifi.

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post #16 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 02:41 PM
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Yes, that would work. But as @StephenV says, why go through the trouble? Only time you know there's a trouble code is when you connect the ECU to a GS911wifi.

Duane
Understood. I am not very happy with the horn on my '14 gtle. It like an old volkswagen I use to have. I have resistors lying around all over the place and I just wouldn't find it very much of a trouble at all to add a resistor to the leg, if I were already installing a relay for the horn.

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post #17 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I think you'd need to use a load resistor in parallel with the relay. I THINK the factory horn draws about 3 amps so a 4 ohm load resistor would probably fool the CANbus into thinking the factory horn is there.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Mounte...CMZ4EN65KV8B67

Load resistors dissipate power via heat so you have to be careful mounting them for LEDs but unless you plan to be blasting your horn all of the time it probably wouldn't be an issue.

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post #18 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Quack View Post
I think you'd need to use a load resistor in parallel with the relay.
Placing a resistor in parallel with a load causes the overall resistance of the circuit to be less than the individual resistance of either leg. Placing a resistor in parallel with a relay coil will result in a resistance somewhat less than that of the relay coil.

To best approximate the actual reistance of the OEM horn, one would need to first know the DC resistance of the horn (probably around 4 ohms) , then add in series a resistor to make up the difference between the OEM horn and relay coil.

Edit: OR simply forget about it and live with the fact you might have an invisible fault code.

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post #19 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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I've done load resistors on LEDs and those are done in parallel. If you hook them up in series then the LED (or relay coil in this case) won't get anything near 12V because of almost all of the voltage drop will be across the load resistor.

(And I'm taking the ignore route with my relay wired horns.)

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Last edited by Quack; 09-20-2019 at 11:43 PM.
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post #20 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 01:44 AM
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I've done load resistors on LEDs and those are done in parallel.
Just a SWAG here, but perhaps the LEDs have a higher resistance than the filiment lit bulbs they're replacing? In that case you would want a load resister in parallel to lower the overall circuit resistance (below that of the LED alone) to keep any kind CANbus system from thinking the device is failing with an open.

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(And I'm taking the ignore route with my relay wired horns.)
That or replace the entire bike with an '18+

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