Clutch problem - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch problem

Hi Guys and Gals,my clutch acts up when I first take off it screeches when I let the lever out.And engages hard with no slippage when cold.My 2012 gtl has 70k and I'm using the blue stuff from bmer bone yard ,anybody else having similar problems?

Never had a bad day!!
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post #2 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 12:19 AM
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Sorry, that's a new one, to me. Doesn't sound good, though.
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2018 K1600 GT Mars Red Metallic
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post #3 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 12:42 AM
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Blue stuff?


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post #4 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 12:50 AM
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Blue stuff is the clutch fluid


When did it last have an oil service. Is it the right oil, has it had added a friction modifier (wet multiplate clutch). Has the clutch master cylinder been overfilled

R80/7RT / K75RT / R1200RT / K1600 GTL - in the U.K.
Also Rans ( Honda C90 & CD175 & CX500 & ST1100, Suzuki GT250 (J) & X7, Puch Maxi), Coveted Honda CBX, Yamaha Martini XS 1300 & FS1E, Kawasaki Z900, Z1000 & Z650, Quasar, Suzuki GT750

Last edited by Mole999; 11-14-2019 at 12:58 AM.
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post #5 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 07:45 AM
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As long as it isn't a metal to metal sound, we used to have that type of problem with bikes that sat for longer lengths of time. Just sitting, the clutch face plates get sticky, jerky and can make noise until they "wear back in". Usually just riding them for a while would resolve the problem, but if it persists it could be worn clutch plates, loose clutch bolts or weak clutch springs. Are you having to pull the clutch lever further than you remember to disengage the clutch? That could also be a symptom of wear. Assuming you have followed directions as far as the oil used, you might also check the clutch master for overfill, as Mole99 suggested. Although I would think you would know if you overfilled the master. That could lead to the noise but probably not the jerkiness.

It may not be a bad idea to take off the clutch side case and do some investigation. It isn't difficult. Drain the oil, remove the clutch cover, take loose the clutch bolts, springs and plates. Make sure to keep the plates in order. Measure the plate faces and spring lengths for serviceability, replace as necessary. Put the clutch plates back in the same order. Retorque the clutch bolts to spec.

Worst case, if it is metal to metal sound (and you should be able to tell), you have a broken clutch bolt. Don't ride it or start it! Continuing to ride it like this can lead to major engine failure.

Let us know how this turns out. Good luck.

Joe

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post #6 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 07:58 AM
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My old K12GT had these exact issues, was a bad clutch. I rode it that way for 20K after it started and never had much of a problem but eventually, I did replace the clutch and no more noises.

A pint of sweat, saves a gallon of blood. George S. Patton
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 02:59 PM
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one last thought, as you seem to have replaced the clutch fluid, did you manage to bleed it successfully

R80/7RT / K75RT / R1200RT / K1600 GTL - in the U.K.
Also Rans ( Honda C90 & CD175 & CX500 & ST1100, Suzuki GT250 (J) & X7, Puch Maxi), Coveted Honda CBX, Yamaha Martini XS 1300 & FS1E, Kawasaki Z900, Z1000 & Z650, Quasar, Suzuki GT750
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post #8 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 03:59 PM
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Although I've no experience with this K1600 clutch, this does sound indicative of a worn throw out bearing. (One day I'll take mine apart, but that day will not be soon :-) )

Donna
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-14-2019, 05:13 PM
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As the clutch wears it raises the fluid level, so it can become overfilled all by itself. But I don't think that would make the "screeching" symptoms described.

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post #10 of 19 Old 11-15-2019, 07:14 AM
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I don't think we are clear about where the screech emanates from - I'm guessing it's a slightly metallic noise from the clutch itself, accompanied by a slight jerkiness when operated, at least until the bike warms up thoroughly. Assuming the oil level is set correctly & has been refreshed to spec at service, then it sounds like she it calling for a new clutch to me.

Here is the diagram....... https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=21_0258

Just step back a page or two, following the blue text if you need to know more about the slave mechanism or casing detail.
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