Final Drive and Engine Oil Change - New Photos - BMW K1600 Forum : BMW K1600 GT and GTL Forums
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post #1 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Final Drive and Engine Oil Change - New Photos

Maybe by offering many more photos, I can help forum members who might want to change their own FD and engine oils.

Easily accomplished with simple tools. The trick is to have everything assembled and ready to go before you start.



In addition to the above, I have two oil drain pans. One that is 7 quarts and fits under the bike, and a larger one to collect the oil for pouring into the big recycle container. I also have a big sheet of cardboard to get down onto the concrete floor with. An old sleeping bag works well too.

The final drive requires removal of the rear tire. I use the long handled socket wrench for this, as the rear tire lugs are held at 60 NM.

T-50 required to remove rear wheel.



Once the tire is out of the way, it is easy to find the FD refill plug.

A T-45 removes both FD plugs.

Wipe around the plug, remove the refill plug, clean and set aside.











Wipe the drain area, remove the drain plug, clean and set aside.



The first time you change the FD lube, it will be black. This is normal as BMW obviously adds some sore of additive. I think it is a moly additive. After that, it will come out looking clean.



As much as 200 ML will come out.



The FD plug looks hollow, but has a magnet in the bottom. The recess holds any metal contamination away from the gear movement.

Note: My new final drive has magnetic plug on drain and refill plug.




I use a paper towel to remove the metal bits.




Note: New thoughts here - Use a Q-Tip to clean the threads of the FD drain hole. this is because a metal bit might remain there. A steel metal bit, between the aluminum threads and the steel drain plug, will mess-up the FD threads. Smart to make sure those threads are very clean.

Once the FD is drained, replace the cleaned plug and torque the magnetic plug to 20 NM.



Now you can refill with fresh gear lube. Pick your lube, I tend to use 75-90 or 75-140, depending on my mood.





There are a lot of hairdresser supply shops with hair color bottles. I prefer the one with the very long spout because of the distance needed to get the new gear lube into the FD. Mark your bottle at the 200 ML level, and refills are easy.

The most common bottle is on the right. You will have to add an extension hose to it because the spout isn't long enough. Some forum members use a syringe to refill.



N.B.: The BMW Service Manual says 180 ML refills. Sine we all seem to get 200 ML out on the initial drain, we prefer to refill with the same 200 ML volume. It's your call.



Slowly squeeze in the new gear lube so as to not spill.

After refilling, wipe the area again, and torque the plug to 20 NM with the T-45 socket.



Reinstall the rear wheel, and torque to 60 NM with the T-50 socket. Cross pattern please. Double checking is smart.

Note: I spent some time on the phone with tech support at Amsoil regarding which weight final drive gear lube to buy. If 75-90 is good, why not heavier? Well, they confirmed what another forum member told me. Heavier weight gear lube is too thick and and stick to the rotating gears too well, building up in one final drive housing and not flowing through the gears as the BME engineers designed for. The hot weight of 90 weight gear lube is like 30 weight engine oil. Nice and thin for flowing all through the gears, and keeping everything lubricated.

So, just buy what the BMW engineers specified: 75w-90 Gear Lube.

The ASTM gear lube comparison study indicated that only two 75w-90 gear lubes didn't fail any of the critical tests.

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Last edited by RL Lemke; 08-27-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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post #2 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 04:04 PM
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Thanks for the write up and the pics RL.
Much clearer than the manual.
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post #3 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Now for the engine oil. This is a job where there will be a lot of oil, some getting all over the place. In the alternative, it's only me that has this issue.

The K1600 engine has two separate oil drain plugs. One external, and one internal.



The internal crankcase oil plug is a standard BMW plug. A 5 mm Allen wrench removes it.





Use great caution when removing this plug because it only allows a 3 mm insertion of the wrench. Easy to strip, and easier to have fall off the wrench and may fall into the engine sump.

If the BMW OE crankcase oil plug is ruined by using an Allen extension that rounds out the hole, or the plug falls off the end of the Allen extension, you will get to remove the sump to remove the plug.





Anyway, back to the oil change.

Locate the sump drain under the engine.



An 8 mm Allen socket removes this oil plug. About 4 quarts will quickly drain.









The sump drain plug is magnetic. Wipe any metal bits that have collected.

When the volume is emptied, and the oil is but a dribble, it is time to remove the crankcase oil plug.

What I do first though, is reinstall the drain plug and empty my oil drain pan. This keeps the 7 quart pan from getting too full, making emptying the pan even more messy.

At this point, I am going to show you the oil change I do with my bike. A change made easier because I replaced my BMW crankcase oil plug with my Super Plug.



I once again remove the sump plug and prepare to remove the Super Plug, using a 3" long 1/4" socket extension.





There is another quart of oil in the crankcase.



This is my Super Plug, the original test mule, firmly attached to the socket extension.

While the engine completely drains, I move over to the other side of the bike to replace the oil filter.



To make life easier, and spill less oil, I use a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil to protect the exhaust pipe and guide the waste oil into the drain pan.



You can see that I used my Wunderlich oil filter socket to loosen the filter, and allow it to drain a while.

My dealer mechanic uses a bit of cardboard.



Once removed, wipe any dirt away from the area.





Wipe a bit of oil on the oil filter gasket. Install the new oil filter to where the gasket just touches the engine.

BMW says to torque the new oil filter to 11 NM.

I follow the instructions on the oil filter, just like all the filters on my cars. Once the gasket touches the engine, I tighten the new oil filter 3/4 turn.

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Last edited by RL Lemke; 11-24-2013 at 02:40 PM.
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post #4 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Now it is time to reinstall the two engine oil drain plugs. Back to the other side of the bike.

I first insert the Super Plug, stuck on the end of the socket extension. Tighten finger tight.





Then torque to 12 NM, or since I have the Super Plug, a bit more.



Stock plug instructions:


Sump Oil Plug:


Reinstall the sump oil plug, along with a new crush washer, and torque to 28 NM with the 8 mm Allen socket.



I double check this torque as the crush washer settles into position.

A little wipe and you are ready to refill the engine.



I fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil, using a paper funnel.



4 quarts will refill the sump to the top. You need to refill the crankcase, and fill the oil filter, before adding the last quart.



N.B.: I know that the Owners Manual says 4.75 quarts (4.5 L), but my dealer, and now I, go ahead with adding the whole 5 quarts. Works fine, and is easier than wasting the last cup of oil.

Start the engine to refill the crankcase, and make room for more oil. 30 to 60 seconds will do just fine.

Fill the last quart. Wipe and reinstall the dip stick.

Oil level check after change with 5 quarts:



You are done.

I keep a written record of every fluid change, date, mileage and what oils I used.
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Last edited by RL Lemke; 05-11-2015 at 09:22 AM.
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post #5 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 06:06 PM
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On the final drive oil change, the only thing I do differently is to remove, or at least break loose, the refil plug before removing the drain plug. That way, if there's a problem with the refil plug, I still have oil in the final drive.
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post #6 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 06:12 PM
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Wow. Thanks for the great write up. It's inspiring. I'd do mine right now if I wasn't on holiday.


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post #7 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 06:16 PM
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i was wondering where you've been?
nice!


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post #8 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 07:14 PM
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Awesome summary, and thanks for the pix! Can you please elaborate on the "super plug" that you mentioned?

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post #9 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 07:43 PM
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Goodness CD. You must be new. The RL Super Plug is more famous than Elvis, Oxy Clean, or The Grassy Knoll.

Please enlist the Search function.


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post #10 of 164 Old 07-14-2013, 07:45 PM
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