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Coolant Reservoir - Checking and Filling the Easy Way - Home or Road

83K views 68 replies 42 participants last post by  dkesling  
#1 · (Edited)
There are a whole lot of threads about the coolant level in the overflow reservoir. Why the level seems to drop quickly, without leaks. How to replenish the coolant. Which coolant to use. Which water to use. This thread is a summary of what the forum wisdom has offered. I forget who first posted the 3 Screw Method, but it works great.

1) The K1600 Coolant System

Our K1600 engine has a coolant system with a lot of nooks and crannies which trap air. So, if you have you bike worked on, water pump replaced, valves checked, etc..., you will have the coolant drained and refilled. This will nearly always lead to trapped air in the system. Air which will eventually, or quickly, depending on how you ride, come to the radiator, and drain your coolant reservoir.

Until all trapped air hits the radiator, your coolant level may, at anytime, drop.


2) Checking the coolant level. Fast, easy and a smart thing to do before rides.

From the front of the bike, look under the headlight, up and left. The little blue bottle.

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3) Adding coolant, the easy way. 3 Little Screws Method
The yellow arrows point to the specific 3 screw screws. Just those 3 allow you to pull the top of the fairing out to gain access to the top of the coolant reservoir.

A - Locate and remove these 3 T-25 screws.

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B - Pull the fairing top our and look down to the top of the reservoir. You will see the little black rubber cap. Stick your fingers down and remove the cap, careful to hang on to it.

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C - Use some funnel with a long hose to get coolant/water into the open reservoir opening. 50/50 ratio.
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D - Once refilled, carefully fish the rubber cap back down and onto the opening.

E - Replace the 3 T-25 screws.

F - Done. :D

If you are out on the road, on a nice ride, when you notice the low coolant level, my recommendation is to top off the level with water. Finding the right coolant is too much trouble, and there is nothing wrong with water. Such a small volume won't make any difference. With just your T-25, located under the seat, and a bottle of water, Aquafina is functionally distilled, you can dump it down and get enough in to refill the reservoir.

Which coolant? Why not something from the auto parts store?

There are now many different formulations of coolant available. BMW has a specific mix of chemicals which they feel is right for their engines, both auto and motorcycle. Mixing different coolant formulas is at best risky. You risk a chemical reaction which will damage the engine. Don't mix. Best to just get a gallon of BMW coolant and have it on hand at home.

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Which water? Spring, filtered, tap or distilled?

Asking this is a good way to start an argument. Worse than which oil or tire. Let's just say that I have a gallon of distilled water in the garage.

If I'm on a long ride and the bike burped enough air to empty the coolant reservoir, I will use whatever clean water I have on hand.

Why, after the dealer works on the bike, does air get trapped in the engine?

Bleeding the K1600 engine of all air appears to be more than service techs are willing to do, because of the time it takes.

BMW added two bleeder screws to this engine. Many service techs don't open the one on the left side of the engine.

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After getting my valves checked, I engage in some spirited riding, lots of twisty turns leaning the bike, and high revs, to expel trapped air. Then, check and refill the coolant reservoir.

Good Tip: Never have major service completed before a long ride.

Seems that many find that their cooling system burps while out on a long ride. Instead of buying a funnel, you might have seen my thread on hydration and purchased the inexpensive water bottle adapter.

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Easily remove the drinking end and use the hose to add the necessary water to the coolant reservoir.

Multi-tasking. :gm
 
#35 ·
I'd like to add you should always check your coolant level a few weeks or several hundred miles after a valve service. Mine always drops and needs about 4 or so ounces to top it up after my services. I suppose they do not always get all the air out when they refill the system.

I keep a quart on hand that I premixed with distilled water.

I've never had an issue with it running hot or overhearing after a service just notice the reservoir levels drops. After filling once it stabilizes until the next service.


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#36 ·
Just read this with regards to using distilled or normal tap water and the Amsoil additive


Amsoil recommends the use of tap or softened water if mixing ADCB (Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost) in straight water applications.

Distilled or demineralized water should only be used if it is going to be mixed with at least a minimum of 35% coolant to 65% water ratio. The coolant is required to neutralize the aggressiveness of the mineral hungry water.

Passive surface films must be created to properly protect the soft metals in the cooling system. The passivation process requires heat and flow in the system using either glycol, and/or ADCB surfactant to effectively develop these surface films. ADCB will develop this protective layer with straight water at 1.5 ounce/ quart ratio, or with a water/ coolant combination with ADCB added at a 1 ounce/ quart ratio.

The key is to immediately run the vehicle once the radiator has been filled. Storing a new radiator, with only water, particularly distilled, and ADCB may allow for bacterial growth and/ or corrosion of the untreated surfaces, both of which may result in leaks, or damage to the radiator. Using distilled water will increase the radiator's susceptibility to damage as distilled water is not electrochemically balanced; it is stripped of impurities and therefore ionically hungry, which will cause it to attack soft metals more aggressively. Drinking, spring, or softened are the recommended water types for use in a radiator, particularly in racing applications.
 
#37 ·
Running Evans "waterless" cooling in my Goldwing trike aluminum engine. Runs just a smidgen hotter on the gage. Otherwise works great. No more pressure issues at high temps ( last week 116 in Blythe CA.). Am tempted to try in my new BGA. Need to talk more to the experts.
 
#39 ·
Thanks for great instructions and clear illustrations. Made the job easy. Bit tricky getting the cap back on though!

One suggestion: Take one more screw out below the right knee. This made it twice as easy to pull the panel back. All four screws are the same length and so, for this procedure, you don't need to tape them by their holes.

I also did what another poster suggested (thanks), and used a black Sharpie to make the MAX and MIN lines stand out. The top was easy to mark by sliding the tip across the raised line. However, I found the easiest way to mark the lower line neatly was to draw around it while continually pressing against the ridge. (and clean them before marking).

Finally, it never hurts to recheck fastener tightness after a few miles.

Thanks again,

Cheers,

Derek
 
#40 ·
Just followed this advice. Great job!

I had my 18k service done just before a tour - saw the advice about NOT having a major service before a tour AFTER my tour.

Water had to be drained down. Had to get the dealer to top it up the day I left and, coincidence or not? the water pump started to leak on tour. Not so much as to need a top up but they replaced the pump yesterday and by the time I got home the level was invisible in the reservoir.

Onto this brilliant forum for advice and found this thread. Don't you just love the experts on here? Thanks RL
 
#46 ·
@JTan You may have to get somebody you trust with some really steady hands to drill it out to a new ID and re-thread if it's casing threads are damaged. That is nightmare stuff when it happens to part of the engine.

I am dealing with used K16 issues as well, it's a pandoras box but so far only the coil. I'm hoping competent hands were used for all else.
 
#49 ·
I have one that was available some time ago. No longer there.

Some forum members purchased the CD/DVD manual from BMW.

Someone here actually posted a link to a file transfer site with the manual. Ask and maybe someone can do that again?
 
#56 ·
I know the 3 screw removal method works on the older K1600 versions but has anyone tried it on the newer model K1600 (ie 2020 GT)...ie the newer models(maybe 2018+) have black push pin clip that sits underneath the wind deflector wing? I know once you push the pin, the bottom clip on the push pin pops off and falls down into the fairing. I'm not sure why BMW made this change as I never had any issues on my 14 K1600 GT.
 
#57 ·
On my 2018 K1600b I have the plastic rivet under the wing as well. Seems like a poor design to use that... Anyways, you can push down the center with a toothpick or other small instrument. Be careful not to lose it as the tiny center of the rivet is easy to lose track of if you're not paying attention. The first time I did this I got lucky to find it on the floor of my garage. If you don't want to take the rivet out then you can remove more of the screws on the front of the bike to pry that side forward enough to get the cap off and fill the reservoir with a funnel similar to what RL shows above. I have one like that and it works great!
Here's a pic of the right side of my k1600b with the right side panels fully removed. Not sure I marked the lines correctly...
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Here's a pic of the right bleed screw.
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Here's the left bleed screw behind the covers over the floorboard.
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Hope this helps someone. Really appreciate the great write ups on here! The service manual that I downloaded says to vent the right bleed screw (by the rear brake) first until coolant comes out without air. Then vent the left bleed screw (over the left floorboard) again until coolant comes out without air. As someone else posted I had to go thru a few cycles of heating the bike up until the fan comes on, letting the bleed screw release air, then letting the bike cool down after it got too hot to keep running. As the bike is cooling that's usually when the coolant in the reservoir drops so make sure you're topped off to max and fill it up again after it cools down. Repeat until air stops coming out of the bleed screws & the coolant stops dropping from the reservoir.
 
#59 ·
There are now many different formulations of coolant available. BMW has a specific mix of chemicals which they feel is right for their engines, both auto and motorcycle. Mixing different coolant formulas is at best risky. You risk a chemical reaction which will damage the engine. Don't mix. Best to just get a gallon of BMW coolant and have it on hand at home.
my recommendation is to top off the level with water. Finding the right coolant is too much trouble, and there is nothing wrong with water. Such a small volume won't make any difference
I use Peak European Anti-freeze when I pull the radiator. Peak comes in a 1 gallon container and is pre-mixed; e.g. 50/50. 1 gallon is enough to do our bike
So… @RL Lemke states “don’t mix coolant brands”… and that it’s ‘OK to top up with water’ (if out on the road; the minor dilution doesn’t matter).
Meanwhile, @Gunnert uses Peak European Antifreeze when doing a full refill (and technically not mixing brands; presumably Duane has done his homework and finds the Peak formulation to be fully compatible).
My gut tells me the formulation cannot possibly be so different (BMW v. Peak) that topping up the reservoir with Peak would cause any issues.
Thoughts?
 
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#61 ·
Just wanted to tell everyone thanks for this write up. This saved my bacon when my Bike was overheating the other day. I was stuck at work and hour and a half from home and the bike was overheating within 5 minutes of riding. Found this thread, coolant looked ok, ended up needing to bleed the air. You guys are the best. <3
 
#62 ·
Is it possible to bleed the system only using the bleed screw on the water pump? I bought my K1600 used and the one on the left is pretty corroded and I can’t get it undone and am afraid of stripping it or snapping it. I just changed all my plugs and ignition coils. Dealer wanted way to much to do one that was bad. I just ordered RMStators and did them all!
 
#68 ·
I am guessing I still have air trapped. On the side stand it stays cool and all but as soon as I put it on the center stand, temp goes up and I have to shut it off. Keep refilling the reservoir. Guess this is the way. Thanks all!