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Discussion Starter #1
Pulled in to work. Shut the bike off to fill the tire with air. Tried to start it - Christmas tree dash. Click and the whole bike shuts off and display restarts.

Seeing all kinds of weird warning lights: front light failure, severe engine fault, no key, DTC errors (not the one when the bike first starts).

I'm hoping it's just a battery thing. Bike dash says 11.9 V. Thoughts?
 

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Techmeister
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Battery, definitely. If not then the ECU.

When you get it running check the alternator output too; be sure it can charge the battery.
 

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Mr.Fix It
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ALWAYS check the obvious first! In this case, I'd check the battery.

Duane
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I was at home no issues....no way to jump or use a multi meter :rolleyes:

Might try and just get it home and diagnose there.

Anyone with the service manual; what should the voltage be at the battery terminals, running at say 2500 RPM....14.5-ish? What about idle?
 

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My experience is funky things happen with low battery. Weird unrelated faults, warnings, etc. New battery likely needed since it started bike and then didn't recharge. Obviously possible alternator is having an issue, but could just as likely be a loose ground or other. I'm betting on the simplest of issues will resolve it.
 
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So you have a bike that's at least 2 years old and you have a bad battery. Hardly a commentary on the quality of the bike. :rolleyes:

And as an electrical engineer, I can say for sure that you would not necessarily get a warning light. The warning light is to tell you the charging system is having an issue, not the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just because the bike is 2 years old doesn't means the battery is.....I bought used so I am not 100% sure.

The warranty comment was tongue in cheek. I didn't make a huge issue out of it.

Besides, there are 3 types of voltage warnings. And as a mechanical engineer and software engineer (so what?) I can clearly see there are 2 types of warnings for the battery - so I expect a warning light.

After all my meetings I'll go double check the leads....maybe one just popped off/loose (fingers crossed)

151244
 

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Just because the bike is 2 years old doesn't means the battery is.....I bought used so I am not 100% sure.
A new battery can be destroyed by just one deep discharge, which may have happened with the previous owner.

If you don't find any loose connections etc. I suggest that you put the battery on charge and then do a load test (places like AutoZone do it free of charge).
 

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Just because the bike is 2 years old doesn't means the battery is.....I bought used so I am not 100% sure.

The warranty comment was tongue in cheek. I didn't make a huge issue out of it.

Besides, there are 3 types of voltage warnings. And as a mechanical engineer and software engineer (so what?) I can clearly see there are 2 types of warnings for the battery - so I expect a warning light.

After all my meetings I'll go double check the leads....maybe one just popped off/loose (fingers crossed)

View attachment 151244
All of those warnings are based on the bikes reading of open circuit voltage. The battery may have high enough voltage under no load to not trip them. Battery can often still be bad. When the battery drops under load, the whole bike computer will shut down and not record the insufficient current flag. From a practical standpoint, the only thing the bike ECM can really monitor is the open circuit voltage of the battery. If the bike alternator is good and the battery has no capacity, then you can easily experience what you described.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree. Low voltage does weird things to a sensor/microprocessor. Just making sure the K1600 doesn't have a known starter/solenoid/etc issue.

So that is definitely the OE battery. It's corroded to ****. Nothing loose. I don't see anything obvious with the battery but the bike now says 11.5V on the dash. Hopefully a jump will get me home so I can at least get to my tools. I wish someone stocked bike batteries that are already charged as I could, perhaps, fix this today.

Also, that's annoying that the whole bike uses Torx screws EXCEPT the battery! The "tool kit" is 2 inches away and it won't take the battery out SMH
 

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what should the voltage be at the battery terminals, running at say 2500 RPM....14.5-ish? What about idle?
Output on my 2012 GT is always at 14.1 when running. Regardless of load.
Depending on load, at idle its right around 13.9
I constantly monitor alt output when riding. I have my RD set to display voltage at the battery.
I also have the Clearwater go no-go voltage sentry.

Joe
 
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I think it is a total loss...I'll give you $100 for it. But really, it's 90% the battery, sucks that you are away from home. Try to get a jump to get home and replace the battery.
 

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I think the previous posters covered it. The battery will give you all sorts of failures on the dash when its lost it's CCA.
I'm sure you just need to R2 the battery and you'll be off to the races
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys. I'll report back.

At least it's in my secure workplace garage. So even if I have to Uber home and get my charge pack and tools and multimeter to diagnose I can.
 

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BTW: At rest, a good battery should show 12.3.

Joe
 
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