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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I have a 2015 K1600gtl with about 20,000 miles on it. I had purchased 2 months old with 6500 miles on it in November, 2015. I have been riding back and forth to work everyday for the last 3 months 30 miles each way. About a 40 minute commute and I have not had any other issues with it. We have ridden 7, 000 miles this summer with some 500 to 600 mile days. Two times last year after riding for an hour or so, then stopping to fuel up and taking a 15 to 30 minute break it would not run right as if starving for fuel for about 30 minutes or so. I checked all the suggestions from previous posts that sounded anything like what I was experiencing. Mostly just vent lines and such and they appeared fine. Also some mentioned over filling might cause an issue so I never added any fuel after the pump shut off automatically going forward. The same thing happened last week after riding for 45 minutes and stopping to fill up. It started fine and I stopped at a friends house on my way from gas station. I talked for about an hour and then when I left to go home it acted up again. Made it home as it was less than a mile. Last night I decided to change front brake pads as I was hoping to meet up with Duane's group this weekend and figured it would be best to have new pads. Anyway after replacing I went to take for a test ride and it acted up again. Couldn't get it out of the driveway just like previous events as if not getting any fuel. I connected GS911 and no codes were present. I waited for about an hour and tried again this time it was running a little better as I left the neighborhood but quit about a mile down the road. I tried numerous times and even had to push it a couple hundred feet to get off the road and it was still acting up. Anyway after several attempts it finally started and ran perfectly. When I arrived home I connected GS911 and sure enough there were 2 events showing fuse activated and fuel pump short to ground and overload. and the fault is not present now. Going to call the closest dealer European Motorcycles in Wexford, PA in a few minutes for my options. I am trying to decide whether to try and ride a couple more weeks while weather is still nice and then take in for service or just take it in now and put away till spring. So far it has never failed to start and run normal after at most an hour. I know total failure is probably imminent. Suggestions welcome. I will post what I find out from dealer. Thanks
 

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The risk of passing a semi on a two lane highway and suddenly now power would give me the right answer...............
 

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I had a similar issue on a R1100RS many years ago - it would run fine and then quit, start back up and go and then quit again. Turns out it was the fuel pump. It would overheat when the fuel tank was low (since it was in the tank)
 

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Forgive me if this has already been covered ... but it looks like from your post that the problem appears after fill up, correct?

I have never had a bad gas experience before, but I'd read about them. I finally had my own issue a couple of months ago ... and it's sounds similar.

I left the station with the bike sputtering and surging and running like crap! Since I was a couple of hours from home and thought that it might be fuel related ... I just kept the rpms up (did NOT want to let it die) and after about thirty minutes, it seemed to clear up.

Got to my e-free station at the house and filled up again. No probs since.

Again, if the fuel scenario has alredady been beaten to death, my apologies.


-
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would have possibly suspected other things too until I was able to see the codes with the GS911 yesterday. It does act exactly like running out of gas. I remember the feeling from the old bikes when we had to switch from on to reserve on the petcock. It has never shown up while riding. It also does seem to happen after the bike has been run and then shut down allowing the heat to rise for a bit under the tank. One time last year and this year was after a fill up. The other two times were just after riding, shutting down and setting for 30 to 60 minutes, then trying to restart. Last week was the first time in over a year. Not sure how the internals of the fuel pump assembly would show a short or overload, show a code and then clear itself upon additional ignition on/off cycles while previously showing same symptom over a year ago with no code twice then work fine for over a year. I am glad I finally found the issue using the GS911 and hope to be able to get fuel pump replaced under warranty. My warranty is good through Sept, 2018. Can't see me getting over the mileage by then. Thanks to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
did you check to see if the 'vent' line is clogged or kinked
Hi spruywa,
Yes I checked it between the incidents 2 nights ago. I connected a hose to the vent under the bike and blew through to the tank neck while I listened for air at the gas cap. I could hear good air flow when I blew. Up till then I wasn't sure what was wrong and then after the next incident is when I was able to get the fault codes for the fuel pump from the GS911.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I wanted to update where I was with my issue. I rode the bike with Duane and his group last Saturday for a total of 365 mile with no issues. I am also riding to work and back and so far no issues. Bike is running great. I was able to speak with the service dept. at my closest dealer. He was very considerate, sympathetic and professional. The bottom line is they will look at it and if problem can't be duplicated or found BMW probably won't authorize to replace fuel pump. I would have to pay a 1 hr diagnostic fee as BMW won't pay for diagnostics if no problem is found. He said there was like a "puma" report (his words) to BMW they can send in and may get more info back from them after the fact. So I guess I ride it like I stole it and see what happens! Thanks.
 

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I wanted to update where I was with my issue. I rode the bike with Duane and his group last Saturday for a total of 365 mile with no issues. I am also riding to work and back and so far no issues. Bike is running great. I was able to speak with the service dept. at my closest dealer. He was very considerate, sympathetic and professional. The bottom line is they will look at it and if problem can't be duplicated or found BMW probably won't authorize to replace fuel pump. I would have to pay a 1 hr diagnostic fee as BMW won't pay for diagnostics if no problem is found. He said there was like a "puma" report (his words) to BMW they can send in and may get more info back from them after the fact. So I guess I ride it like I stole it and see what happens! Thanks.
Hope it doesn't cut out on you at a bad spot and put you at risk. It would be great if they could identify issue from codes. Kind of surprised they can't. Best wishes and keep us posted on what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hope it doesn't cut out on you at a bad spot and put you at risk. It would be great if they could identify issue from codes. Kind of surprised they can't. Best wishes and keep us posted on what happens.
Hi J Oliver,
I have since ridden another 300+ mile day and several more days to work. Not even a hiccup since the last time it happened almost three weeks ago. I truly believe the issue is the bike activating the fuse/over current device due to a higher then normal current draw by the fuel pump. Obviously the bike won't run if the fuel pump is not working due to fuse activation. Now the question is "what is causing the fuel pump to draw too much current"? Could it be possible that the injectors were somewhat clogged and the additional pressure caused the fuel pump to draw too much current thus tripping the automatic fuse protecting the fuel pump circuit? One reason I am considering this as a possible cause is the info about BMW now recommending their techron based fuel system additive in some recent posts. Do they know something they are not telling us? Who knows. Again the condition has never occurred while the bike is moving. Only after a normal ignition shut down and 30 to 60 minutes later the condition appeared. Two times after fuel fill up and 2 times no fuel fill up before it happened. Incidents were 15 months apart. Anyways I ordered a a bottle of Chevron Techron and am going to add 1 oz per gallon, continue this every 6 or 8 tanks of fuel and see what happens. Don't think there is much riding left this year so will have to continue the story next spring. Thanks for the best wishes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hi All,
I wanted to provide an update to my situation regarding the fuel pump cut off mentioned earlier in this thread. I rode my K1600 last fall till weather turned. I had no other issues. I have been pondering what to do to regain the confidence in the bike I had prior to these occurrences. Since my closest BMW dealer had informed me BMW would not authorize a replacement fuel pump under warranty if the problem could not be duplicated at the dealer I would also have to pay for diagnostics time of $100 to $200. I had looked at the Ebay replacement fuel pumps but was concerned with quality. I stumbled on a website called Euromotoelectrics.com in Denver, Co. They listed the complete fuel pump assemblies as well as just the oem Bosch fuel pump with instructions on how to remove oem fuel pump from assembly and install replacement fuel pump. The cost was about $150 including shipping. I have to admit I was a little apprehensive about the procedure but regaining the confidence in the bike was important to me. So after a couple of emails back and forth with Norman Schwab from Euromotoectrics.com I ordered the replacement fuel pump FP-379 on Monday. I began the removal of plastic on Tuesday. The fuel pump arrived on Wednesday. I drained the tank and removed the oem fuel pump on Thursday. I noticed a slight difference in plug/outlet end compared to the oem pump. I contacted EME and Norm replied that the pressure relief spring assembly on the pump had been changed slightly and to go ahead and install. I have attached their installation instructions as well as some pictures of the complete assembly and the replacement fuel pump. I used a slightly smaller bit than the instructions suggested. I would recommend getting the replacement strainer as you have to work very close to the strainer to drill the plastic and the nub off the bottom of the pump. It would be easy to damage the strainer with the drill chuck. I taped the strainer as tight as possible with blue painter's tape to hold it out of the way and protect it. Mine was fine after the procedure and was in very good shape. But Bosch does say warranty is void unless strainer is replaced at time of installation. I had marked the ring that holds the fuel pump in place and upon re-installation I was not able to get it to the same spot upon tightening. About a half inch shy I guess. Without the BMW removal spanner to allow torquing I was afraid to go any farther. No leaks. I put about a gallon of the gas I had drained earlier back in the tank. I had charged the battery to top it off. Before replacing all the plastic I started the bike and it fired right off. The fuel gauge was acting weird showing almost full. So I decided to brave the cold and ride it down the road and fill the tank. After a few hundred feet the fuel gauge went to almost empty as it should. I filled the tank with 92 octane and upon restart gauge showed full. I then rode the bike out to a place I could do a couple of hard 0-70 mph runs and everything seems fine. Time will tell. Thanks. Here is a link. BMW R & K Fuel Pump 16 14 2 350 641, 16 14 7 680 379 / BOSCH Click on the fuel pump exchange in blue for instructions. These are nice people to deal with. Great experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Amen brother. Not sure I would own this bike without the forum! Thanks. I figured the worst case scenario was a new fuel pump assembly at $500.00 or so. Once you accept that it is a little easier. I hope this fixes it. Unfortunately it still could be in the electronic module. Unlikely but possible. Good luck.
 

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BMW ring removal tool is unnecessary, just tap gentle with a cold chisel and hammer, having first marked the final position. I got a second hand pump from a wrecked bike with less than a thousand miles on it, though it did come without the voltage regulator. Rubber seal back into the tank opening first then put the pump back and tap round until the marks are back in line., I then brought a pump replacement kit ready just in case
 

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Hi All,
I wanted to provide an update to my situation regarding the fuel pump cut off mentioned earlier in this thread. I rode my K1600 last fall till weather turned. I had no other issues. I have been pondering what to do to regain the confidence in the bike I had prior to these occurrences. Since my closest BMW dealer had informed me BMW would not authorize a replacement fuel pump under warranty if the problem could not be duplicated at the dealer I would also have to pay for diagnostics time of $100 to $200. I had looked at the Ebay replacement fuel pumps but was concerned with quality. I stumbled on a website called Euromotoelectrics.com in Denver, Co. They listed the complete fuel pump assemblies as well as just the oem Bosch fuel pump with instructions on how to remove oem fuel pump from assembly and install replacement fuel pump. The cost was about $150 including shipping. I have to admit I was a little apprehensive about the procedure but regaining the confidence in the bike was important to me. So after a couple of emails back and forth with Norman Schwab from Euromotoectrics.com I ordered the replacement fuel pump FP-379 on Monday. I began the removal of plastic on Tuesday. The fuel pump arrived on Wednesday. I drained the tank and removed the oem fuel pump on Thursday. I noticed a slight difference in plug/outlet end compared to the oem pump. I contacted EME and Norm replied that the pressure relief spring assembly on the pump had been changed slightly and to go ahead and install. I have attached their installation instructions as well as some pictures of the complete assembly and the replacement fuel pump. I used a slightly smaller bit than the instructions suggested. I would recommend getting the replacement strainer as you have to work very close to the strainer to drill the plastic and the nub off the bottom of the pump. It would be easy to damage the strainer with the drill chuck. I taped the strainer as tight as possible with blue painter's tape to hold it out of the way and protect it. Mine was fine after the procedure and was in very good shape. But Bosch does say warranty is void unless strainer is replaced at time of installation. I had marked the ring that holds the fuel pump in place and upon re-installation I was not able to get it to the same spot upon tightening. About a half inch shy I guess. Without the BMW removal spanner to allow torquing I was afraid to go any farther. No leaks. I put about a gallon of the gas I had drained earlier back in the tank. I had charged the battery to top it off. Before replacing all the plastic I started the bike and it fired right off. The fuel gauge was acting weird showing almost full. So I decided to brave the cold and ride it down the road and fill the tank. After a few hundred feet the fuel gauge went to almost empty as it should. I filled the tank with 92 octane and upon restart gauge showed full. I then rode the bike out to a place I could do a couple of hard 0-70 mph runs and everything seems fine. Time will tell. Thanks. Here is a link. BMW R & K Fuel Pump 16 14 2 350 641, 16 14 7 680 379 / BOSCH Click on the fuel pump exchange in blue for instructions. These are nice people to deal with. Great experience.
I got a replacement pump set from eBay for 26 GBP, no issues with the items supplied
 

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Sorry to necro an old thread, I just wanted to chime in and thank everyone for their thoughts on this one. I found this thread and many others on here when I was having a problem with my 2013 K1600GT -
Bike had sat for almost a year. It was started once in awhile, but not put under any kind of load (I think this might be important) Last month when I finally decided to go for a ride, it sputtered and would barely stay running. I completely drained the tank, filled it with good gas and some sea foam and set out. Under a heavy load it would struggle, and cracking the throttle wide-open would cause it to die completely. Even just sitting on the stand, a quick 'WOT whack' would cause it to die. Engine light was on, but I have no way to read it.
My local dealer is 40 miles and repeated attempts to get them to come get it failed so I decided to take a shot at it myself.
I ended up pulling the pump and trying to 'jump' it by applying 12v directly to it and nothing happened. I found a replacement kit for ~ $60 - came with the pump, mesh "filter", stainless clamps, and a small section of fuel hose that connects the pump to the bulkhead.
You can finagle the whole pump assembly out of the tank by just removing the air intake. Getting the nipple out of the bottom of the pump (near the intake screen) was tricky - I couldn't find the instructions referenced earlier in the thread. A little cautious prying and poking broke it loose. It's not a terribly difficult DIY project - I've had some practice lately getting the tupperware on/off, so start to finish was maybe an hour to replace just the pump. Back together she sprang to life. No more engine light, no sputters, no complete shutdown when cracked wide open.
So for anyone else with similar issues - $60 and a couple hours of your time can save you an expensive dealer trip.
Thanks again, this site is a very valuable resource
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi wildblue. Glad you were successful with your replacement fuel pump. I have had no other issues with mine since replacing the fuel pump only and installing it in my existing assembly. At the time I had been trying the techron fuel additive also so I really don't which fixed it but no more issues in 2 years and I am good with that. I still add the techron every 4 tanks or so. Good luck!
 
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