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@BluegressPicker

Attached is the headlamp fitting. The hassle is getting that bail wire to hook in & out of the :shark teeth: clips....
But - now you know...
(Rotate pic so :shark teeth: are at 6 o clock position.. .)
 

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Thanks ! Now I know why I couldn't get it out by pulling on the wire.

I still think with the right homemade tool I could change this without disassembling the front.
With the wheel turned to the left I can easily reach up underneath and take the cover off to gain access.

Now that I know how it works I'm sure I'll never have to change the bulb again. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks ! Now I know why I couldn't get it out by pulling on the wire.

I still think with the right homemade tool I could change this without disassembling the front.
With the wheel turned to the left I can easily reach up underneath and take the cover off to gain access.

Now that I know how it works I'm sure I'll never have to change the bulb again. LOL
You must have smaller hands than me as I couldn't begin to get my hand up under the front end and do anything. By the simple removal of the handle bars it was a pretty easy job.
 

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Then plug the silver wire back into the square bulb base also by feel. This is the phase that added more time than it took to remove the old bulb.

Install the dust cap back (correctly) and put the handlebar unit back in place making sure it lines up with your front wheel. Add some blue Loctite to the nut and torque it down. I couldn't find the torque spec but I got mine pretty tight with a breaker bar. Reinstall your BMW roundel. Turn on your bike and start it up to make sure the bulb works. Put your tools away and go have that beer because you just saved at least an hours labor cost at your dealer.
Very good description. However, I might suggest doing the emphasized step prior to buttoning everything back up... Why wait until everything is put back together to figure out you indexed the pins one-off? :grin:
 
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Arizona Jim for the win! Again! With a great assist by Blackfin31. Dealer said $326 for the bulb, plus labor to "take the whole dash apart." Not. Phillips bulb (per Gunnert) from Amazon cost $51, ordered Thursday night, delivered today. Installed in about an hour like Jim said (but I'd wager if I had to do another one right now it wouldn't take more than 20 minutes. 10 if I didn't mind cutting my hands up reaching in and risking touching the bulb.) Retention clip threw me for a spell, till I re-looked up Blackfin31's post and pushed rather than pulled... then it just popped off. Maybe I got lucky, but it popped back on so fast I wondered if I even had it right. Oddly enough, the bulb I replaced was the EXACT same model from Phillips that I had ordered from Amazon.

I would note that my clip does seem very different than from the one in the video:
 

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Mr.Fix It
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Bill, I didn't/haven't watched the video.

Duane
 

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Hi guys,

Thanks for the initial post, my bulb died yesterday and the dealer says 500chf (so 500$...) with 330 only for the bulb.
Well, I'll try to do it myself as you did.

Looking for the right bulb, I looked at the link you provided on amazon, and tried to find the same here in Switzerland.
When I look on the internet, if I stay on Philipps brand, I can see there are 3 different "models" : standard, vision, x-treme vision.

For the standard the part number is 85415C1
For the vision it's 85415VIC1
For the x-treme vision it's 85415XV2C1

Better stick with the original or try something else ?
Do you have some feedback on those vision models ?

Cheers !
 

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Just made the change yesterday.
I installed a vision model because I could not find the standard one. I do not see any difference...

Again, big thank you for this post, you saved me 460$...

If it does help, find attached another picture of the clip.
 

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This thread was a great help: it took 50 minutes today to change my HID including wandering off to find odd bits, and saved a heap over the expected charge from my dealer.

A couple of newer photos to update those from the OP (Photobucket wouldn't let me download or enlarge them) and a couple of tips I found helped along the way.

Get a decent LED torch to help see what you're doing in there.
Use a marker pen to cheat mark the handlebars and make it easier to get the alignment right when re-assembling.
Mark the access cover before removal, again to assist lining up when re-assembling.
A bit of string or even a phone charger cable to hold the spring tab out of the way when feeding the new HID in will be a big help.

146416


146417


146418


146419


146420


146421


Again, what a useful and time saving thread. Even if I did buy a new torque wrench (don't forget an extension bar!) and a 27mm socket, I still saved enough for a set of tyres 😎

A twist to the tale: my 2021 GT is due for delivery in 3-4 weeks, so all this benefits the new owner of my 3 year old/130,000km current K16GT. The things we do....
 

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I have 2012 K1600 GT. Tried to follow directions above posted by Arizona Jim. Does not work. Why? Removed BMW emblem, nut and washer. No problem. Tried to remove handlebars as directed by pulling off serrated shaft.(Per post; "I pulled the handle bar unit clear of the serrated stem and set it off to the right side of the padded tank"). Big problem! Handlebar assembly is held onto serrated shaft under the yoke by an aluminum locating pin cast into a piece very difficult to remove. Also, bought replacement xenon bulb from Amazon labeled "authentic Philips Xenon HID bulb". Came in Philips packaging but was a counterfeit bulb (ie, not made by Philips). Amazon has not yet refunded my money. Caveat emptor, 80% of bulbs on market are counterfeit. Bulb may work but be dim have short lifetime. A "real" bulb, manufactured by Philips, Osram or Sylvania cost around $100. BMW charges $320 for bulb alone and based on labor specified in shop manual I estimate total cost from dealer to replace at over $700!!!! To replace a bulb!!! Mine burned out around 80,000 miles as well. If BMW wonders why sales are down here is a good place to start.
 

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Big problem! Handlebar assembly is held onto serrated shaft under the yoke by an aluminum locating pin cast into a piece very difficult to remove.
You must have an oddball '12. Mine came right off no problem....?
 
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I never saw a locating pin on my '16 but it was a bit corroded on. Took a smack or two on the bars to free it up. I could have set it back one spline off easily. Hey maybe that would have fixed that left pull. 🤣
 

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My low beam Xenon headlight bulb burned out at around 82.000 miles. Tonight I changed it out with a new one. It took about 15 minutes to remove it and another 20 to install it. Here is the procedure I used.


The bulb is a Xenon D1S 35W which can be purchased on Amazon and other places. I chose to get one tonight at AutoZone. It was a Sylvania and cost $100.





First I removed the BMW roundel from the steering stem.





Then with a 1 1/16" or 27mm 6 point socket I removed the steering stem nut and washer.





I pulled the handle bar unit clear of the serrated stem and set it off to the right side of the padded tank.





I was now able to reach down and remove the large diameter dust cap from behind the light bulb. Pay attention to the orientation of the cap (open and close to the top) because there are some locking fingers along the edge that must engage a corresponding serration on the housing when put back into place.








Reach down and pull the plug at the end of the silver braided wire loose from the bulbs square base. Now the tricky part, fiddle with the wire bail were it goes underneath the square base until it comes free. Swing it up and the bulb will come loose and you can remove it from the bike. This picture shows the wire bail after the bulb is removed so you can see how the bail locks into the housing.





Insert the new bulb CAREFULLY so that you don't damage it or touch the glass tube with your fingers. Once the bulb is in position snap the bail into place again by fiddling with your fingers. Then plug the silver wire back into the square bulb base also by feel. This is the phase that added more time than it took to remove the old bulb.





Install the dust cap back (correctly) and put the handlebar unit back in place making sure it lines up with your front wheel. Add some blue Loctite to the nut and torque it down. I couldn't find the torque spec but I got mine pretty tight with a breaker bar. Reinstall your BMW roundel. Turn on your bike and start it up to make sure the bulb works. Put your tools away and go have that beer because you just saved at least an hours labor cost at your dealer.
UR a rock star, I was watching the youtube Japanese guy ripping the whole front end apart. Took him mega hours Your process looks like 30-45 minutes. Maybe an hour. Thank you. I owe you a case of beers
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
UR a rock star, I was watching the youtube Japanese guy ripping the whole front end apart. Took him mega hours Your process looks like 30-45 minutes. Maybe an hour. Thank you. I owe you a case of beers
Glad the instructions helped.
Come to the MOA rally in Great Falls, MT this coming June (hopefully) and we can discuss that beer offer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
A "real" bulb, manufactured by Philips, Osram or Sylvania cost around $100.
The bike I did the bulb swap was 2012 GTL and the handlebars did just pull off and yes I paid $100 at a local auto parts store for the new bulb but at least I could look at it, before purchasing, and determine it was a quality bulb.
 

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Thank you Jim for the tutorial again....You contribute nightly to the forum...

I just preformed this tonight and it took me forever to release the spring.

This is a quote from Jim

"Now the tricky part, fiddle with the wire bail were it goes underneath the square base until it comes free."

I would like to add a little clarity as it may save someone else time and frustration.

To release the spring...Take your index finger with your palm up and blindly stick your finger up under the base of the light....You should feel the edge of the spring. Now press upward with your index finger and the spring will release...Now take the bulb out.

Install the new bulb and close the bail to the spring.

To lock the spring....Stick your index finger up underneath the base of the light...blindly feel the edge of the spring...now center the spring and press inward and upward simultaneously and this will lock the spring...

Just adding to the woodpile here...


Paul
Thanks Paul. My K16 2012 has 83K US Miles. Low Beam went out yesterday AM. I have two coming via amazon. I will try the handlebar method. God Bless. I have a great fix for the clutch mini micro switches if anyone is interested
 
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