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This will be my first attempt to change my rear tire on my 2018 GTL. Looking at my Michelin RP4 GT tire. There is no "ink" dot to indicate the heavy spot of the tire.
I've done 2 other tires on my Victory and each tire had the mentioned "ink" spot, but they were Shinko tires. How does Michelin identify their "heavy" spot of the tire?

Also, if I put the GTL on the center stand, is there enough clearance to take the rear tire off and re-install the new one? Yes, I'm going to YouTube next, to look for videos. Figured I'd ask the brain trust here before searching YouTube.

Finally, does any know off the top of their head what the torque value is for the torx bolts on the rear wheel? I don't have the Service Manual CD mounted on my MacBook Pro plus the Superdrive and disc are out in the man cave to look it up myself.
 
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Some manufacturers do not identify the light spot to align with the valve stem. It is what it is, take your best guess.

Yes on the clearance but you will probably have to remove the fender skirt (1 screw)

Rear Wheel Bolts are T50 at 44 ft-lbs
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Some manufacturers do not identify the light spot to align with the valve stem. It is what it is, take your best guess.

Yes on the clearance but you will probably have to remove the fender skirt (1 screw)

Rear Wheel Bolts are T50 at 44 ft-lbs
@coyotek thank you for the information. I'll tackle the tire change this weekend. I've got a Weaver tire changing machine to help with the project! 😊
 

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@coyotek thank you for the information. I'll tackle the tire change this weekend. I've got a Weaver tire changing machine to help with the project! 😊
When you remove the old tire, put your TPM 90 degs past the dismount head. Once the first bead is off, put the TPM 180 off the head and make sure the second bead is above the TPM before you remove the second bead.

The goal is to give yourself as much working diameter on the bead as possible due to the low drop center. So making sure the bead is on the correct side of the TPM can make the difference between easy and very hard, not to mention trashing the TPM.

There may be other ways to accomplish the task but this is how I do it. Best of luck.
 

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Oh, and I'll add one more tid bit. If you are having to play Hulk doing this, you need to stop and figure out what you're not doing right. While some tires can be a biotch in certain ways, the struggle is almost always technique. DAMHIKT :)
 

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This will be my first attempt to change my rear tire on my 2018 GTL. Looking at my Michelin RP4 GT tire. There is no "ink" dot to indicate the heavy spot of the tire.
I've done 2 other tires on my Victory and each tire had the mentioned "ink" spot, but they were Shinko tires. How does Michelin identify their "heavy" spot of the tire?

Also, if I put the GTL on the center stand, is there enough clearance to take the rear tire off and re-install the new one? Yes, I'm going to YouTube next, to look for videos. Figured I'd ask the brain trust here before searching YouTube.

Finally, does any know off the top of their head what the torque value is for the torx bolts on the rear wheel? I don't have the Service Manual CD mounted on my MacBook Pro plus the Superdrive and disc are out in the man cave to look it up myself.
Hi Joe. The torque for the five rear bolts is 40 NM each. I too have one of Mr. Weaver’s tire changers. Last weekend I mounted/demounted four tires; two RS III’s and two PR 4 GT’s. I had forgotten the correct procedure for inserting the tire iron. By watching the Weaver video yet again I saw what I had forgotten. Mr. Cyotek’s advice on proper placement of the duck head relative to the TPS is correct.

If all else fails my phone number is: 336.456.7077 and my bill is paid. Good wrenching sir.:)
 

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Hello Bruce,

I believe that is incorrect. My manual says 60NM (or 44 ft lb.) for each of the five rear wheel bolts, and that seems to be the consensus on this forum.

RL


Hi Joe. The torque for the five rear bolts is 40 NM each. I too have one of Mr. Weaver’s tire changers. Last weekend I mounted/demounted four tires; two RS III’s and two PR 4 GT’s. I had forgotten the correct procedure for inserting the tire iron. By watching the Weaver video yet again I saw what I had forgotten. Mr. Cyotek’s advice on proper placement of the duck head relative to the TPS is correct.

If all else fails my phone number is: 336.456.7077 and my bill is paid. Good wrenching sir.:)
 

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Right you are Rich. Sadly, this is not the first bad info posted on this site today. I doubt the OP wants his wheel falling off on the road. :(

44 Ft-Lbs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Joe. The torque for the five rear bolts is 40 NM each. I too have one of Mr. Weaver’s tire changers. Last weekend I mounted/demounted four tires; two RS III’s and two PR 4 GT’s. I had forgotten the correct procedure for inserting the tire iron. By watching the Weaver video yet again I saw what I had forgotten. Mr. Cyotek’s advice on proper placement of the duck head relative to the TPS is correct.

If all else fails my phone number is: 336.456.7077 and my bill is paid. Good wrenching sir.:)
@BruceHarrisJr WOW! Thank you for the phone number and information. If I run into problems I will give you a call! Much Appreciated!
 
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You have 3 options for removing rear wheel when you have the stock cans;
1. Jack the rear end of the bike WAY up in the air (not recommended)
2. remove the rear fender guard
3. remove the right side can.

I find removing the can easiest. The first time it can be a PIA to separating connecting pipe. When you reassemble use high-temp anti-sieze on the pipe and future removal will be a breeze.

Duane
 
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So long as the adjustable guard is up..i have always angled the tyre out without any problem.
2016 GTLE. Both wheels are so easy to remove with a few extra tool bits not in your kit.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

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This hot weather is a great time to change the tires.
Seems to get easier every time.

Here are things that are working well for me:

1) motion pro curved tire irons - lube the side that comes in contact with the tire
2) Motion pro rim protectors - lube the edge
3) Real tire lube
4) tires warmed up on hot driveway
5) harbor freight bead breaker
6) 1" x 2" x 3" block of wood to keep the opposite side of the tire in the center of the rim
7) 2x4 wooden frame to raise the wheel off the disks on my workbench
 

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With that I've decided to do it myself and your tips are great.
My local Harbor Freight confirmed stock of the bead breaker so I'll stop by and collect that today. I have Stubby no scratch levers that I've used to change tires a few times on my Harley.

Cant get the Dunlop rebate for online purchases.


Oh my! Spooning on RS3s is difficult enough with my nice Coats 220! I can't imagine doing them manually. That being said.
145698
 

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Thanks for this.

I spoke to my local Cycle Gear and confirmed that they can fit and balance but they didn't have the Roadsmart 3's in stock, so I ordered it on their website and once the tracking showed delivered to the local store I called them to confirm Saturday fitment, and on that call they told me that they're not comfortable doing these BMW wheels because they've had a mishap in the past.
Order cancelled and refund received.

With that I've decided to do it myself and your tips are great.
My local Harbor Freight confirmed stock of the bead breaker so I'll stop by and collect that today. I have Stubby no scratch levers that I've used to change tires a few times on my Harley.

Cant get the Dunlop rebate for online purchases.


I did it with hand tools. Got them off easily enough. I ended up having to use the zip tie method to mount the rear. I could not sufficiently keep the tire in the shallow drop center. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a Weaver. Hopefully before the next set is do. I'm told the RSIIIs are particularly stiff and difficult. They are all I've ever attempted so I cannot compare them to anything else. But I can say I got I all wanted that day.
 
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