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Went to a shop, a single 5mm hex socket is in 1/2" drive. If I want 3/8" drive will have to buy a pack. :rolleyes:

Nothing particularly wrong with a 1/2" drive, except 12Nm is at borderline low range of my 1/2" torque wrench and I think it's inaccurate. So I also need to use 2 step down adapters for my 1/4" torque wrench, not ideal.

150520
 

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Went to a shop, a single 5mm hex socket is in 1/2" drive. If I want 3/8" drive will have to buy a pack. :rolleyes:

Nothing particularly wrong with a 1/2" drive, except 12Nm is at borderline low range of my 1/2" torque wrench and I think it's inaccurate. So I also need to use 2 step down adapters for my 1/4" torque wrench, not ideal.

View attachment 150520
The main issue really isn't the hex socket. The issue is the secureness of the attachment to the inner screw to any hex socket. RL's modified drain plug with a 1/4" socket attachment is a secure attachment and much easier to work with.
 

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The main issue really isn't the hex socket. The issue is the secureness of the attachment to the inner screw to any hex socket. RL's modified drain plug with a 1/4" socket attachment is a secure attachment and much easier to work with.
I understand that part, but don't think I can wait that long for the super plug to get here in time for oil change before a trip.

Also, if the plug is so weak, it should really be listed as a consumable along with oil filter and sump washer. Get a new plug every other oil change.
 

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I ordered RLs plug right away so I was ready when it came time to change the oil.
I also purchased the Illium works filter wrench - excellent tool, and can be used with a 3/8” drive extension or a 19mm socket.
Next, the dreaded 5mm internal plug removal. If you are like me you have a sh*t ton of random Allen wrenches. I had a 5mm from a dismantled wrench set (with the short ends bent over into a loop so the Allens are then held in a group with a bolt running thru; you know the type - junk). I cut off the loop/short end so now I have a 5mm hex shaft about 1.25 inches long. Go find your 1/4” drive, 6pt, 5mm socket that you are never going to use for anything else ever. There is a 1/4” drive hole on one end and a 5mm 6pt hexagonal hole on the other. The thru hole is round. Chuck up that 1.25” length of 5mm Allen key in your drill and turn it against your grinder....gently work it round and ever so slightly tapered. Now tap it into the socket and vióla you have a 1/4” drive socket with about 3/4” of 5mm Allen wrench. Put a 3” extension on and you are good to go.
One final bit of advice - wait until the oil is not so friggin’ hot. So eager to use my new gadgets and get the job done, first oil change (for me) on the bike and ignorant to the extent of oil bath yet to happen.....I endured quite a bit of pain while HOT oil poured over my fingers/hand because ‘by gosh’ I wasn’t losing that f***ing little plug up inside there. The oil comes out shall we say aggressively; use your 5mil rubber gloves from HFT.
Oil filter is easy; aluminum foil trick and all.

p.s. regarding stripped threads, and this goes for any machine threads. Be sure to “time” or “match” the threads by first slowly turning backwards (CCW) whilst applying enough force so you can feel (and often hear) the threads “CLICK” together. This tells you the male and the female threads have properly mated. Now turn threads clockwise by hand until fully engaged. By doing this you greatly reduce the chance of x-threading and galling.
What I hate about the “professionals” is they are often working as fast as they can get away with, and poor workmanship results. A big tool box doesn’t always mean experience.
 

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What I hate about the “professionals” is they are often working as fast as they can get away with, and poor workmanship results.
Do tips for a DIY hex socket (y)

I'm planning to warm up the bike (either by idling or riding around the block) then wait for it to cool down. I guess that's better than draining cold oil.

Total agree about mechanics racing against time don't carry out the best work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Shipping to NZ takes about two weeks. I've sent a number to OZ and a couple to NZ.

The issue isn't stripped threads because to OE plug is tool steel and the plate is good quality steel. The issue is the shallow 3mm insertion in the OE plug, which if the Allen tool isn't well connected can round out. This happens most often when the last person who torqued the oil plug overtightened it. Happens all the time.

As for torque, once switched over to the Super Plug tightening isn't an issue. You can be a little ham fisted and tighten to what feels right.

BMW continues to use the same oil plug they use across product lines. If you look at the OE plug, it is dished to allow for a magnet. That is why the Allen tool insertion is so shallow, at 3mm.
 

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What's so special about "dealers tool to remove crankcase oil plug"? It just looks like many extensions joined together, or was it just being sarcastic? ;)

So, to attempt the oil change, I will need the following right?
  • 8mm hex socket for sump plug.
  • 5mm extended hex socket for crankcase plug.
  • Oil filter wrench, is this BMW specific? This one is cheap but costly to ship, would a regular 76mm filter cap work?
  • BMW 07119963252 sump washer.
  • BMW 11427673541 oil filter.
  • Engine oil, I intend to use Shell Advance Ultra 10W-40, same as the dealer since new 70,000km ago. This part is going to be annoying, it only comes in 4-litre pack, but I will need 4.5L, so will have to buy 8 litres. :rolleyes: May switch to Castrol Power One or MOTUL 7100 for this reason.
Any special precautions? I read the part about be careful with the inner crankcase plug. Will be getting an extended hex socket specifically for this task.
As far as the 5mm goes, I use a long 5 mm socket/wrench to loosen only. I then use a 5mm Bondhus (which has a lock (green dot) to securely hold the plug in place for removing by hand. No need for a conglomeration of socket extenders adapters etc. It should be noted that I am clumsy and have never had an issue with even coming close to loosing the plug when removing . To re-apply start with the Bondus and torque with the long 5mm.

Neil
 

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Mr.Fix It
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@TucoRiley , glad it works for you. Don't ever say you weren't warned; you're playin with fire... All it takes is a slight slip of the hex head wrench and you'll be investing in drill bits, e-z outs, and, then, one of RL's plugs.:) Over the years I've mentored quite a few K bike converts. I ALWAYS tell them the FIRST thing you buy for your K bike is an RL plug.

Duane
 
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I understand that part, but don't think I can wait that long for the super plug to get here in time for oil change before a trip.

Also, if the plug is so weak, it should really be listed as a consumable along with oil filter and sump washer. Get a new plug every other oil change.
The plug isn't weak. A few people have dropped it off the end of the allen wrench such that it is hard to retrieve. I think there was one even had to take the oil pan off to get it.
 

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I'm a little puzzled that there appears to be confusion regarding the improved more secure method of mitigating the risk of an internal plugs shallow hex becoming unusable necessitating a major job to remove the original plug after that.

I bought one of these 5 mm hex sockets at the same time as the RL Plug in time for the first oil change which I did soon after buying my 2013 GTL.


Capri Tools - 3-0606 Long 5 mm Hex Bit Socket, 1/4-Inch Drive, Metric $7.20
 

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It's almost impossible to loose the inner plug! There are 4 fingers/protrusions in the oil pan preventing blocking the path of the inner plug.

Duane
 

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It's almost impossible to loose the inner plug! There are 4 fingers/protrusions in the oil pan preventing blocking the path of the inner plug.

Duane
Almost impossible, sure. But, I've read of at least one that dropped it and couldn't extract it without removing the pan. Just one is enough to justify the cost of the super plug.
 

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@RefCat , I remember that one too, I didn't buy it then, I don't buy it now. I'm betting there's 'more' to the story than was reported. I have a spare oil pan. You can NOT force the plug between 4 fingers molded into the pan.

Duane
 
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@RefCat , I remember that one too, I didn't buy it then, I don't buy it now. I'm betting there's 'more' to the story than was reported. I have a spare oil pan. You can NOT force the plug between 4 fingers molded into the pan.

Duane
Perhaps that was RL posting under an alias in order to boost sales!!! ;) ;) ;)

(no I'm not serious for those that think I am)
 

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Of course I have RLs Super Plug. RL plug is necessitated if you don’t want to deal with stripped threads; has nothing to do with ‘losing’ the plug inside the oil pan.

Duane
 

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RLs plug has a positive attachment to the 1/4” drive extension; it snaps on and therefore does not have the potential of falling off. The OEM plug only has a 5mm hex drive recess and a shallow (3mm?) depth, which is the reason it can fall off the wrench.
Either plug, once started and turned, can be over torqued and thus “stripped” or worse yet cross threaded in the first place and stripped.
 

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I can confirm what Duane stated that it has been impossible, up to this point, to lose the inner oil plug in the bottom of the oil pan do to the 4 fingers capturing it as I have dropped it several times and retrieved it from within the 4 fingers designed into the oil pan to do just this. To ensure the 5mm Allen wrench fits securely I replace the inner plug every second oil change, purchasing a new one when I buy the oil, filter and crush washer....living on the edge with oil changes, is that like going to the Dark side with tires!

Randy
 

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I can confirm what Duane stated that it has been impossible, up to this point, to lose the inner oil plug in the bottom of the oil pan do to the 4 fingers capturing it as I have dropped it several times and retrieved it from within the 4 fingers designed into the oil pan to do just this. To ensure the 5mm Allen wrench fits securely I replace the inner plug every second oil change, purchasing a new one when I buy the oil, filter and crush washer....living on the edge with oil changes, is that like going to the Dark side with tires!

Randy
Just curious?.if you replace the plug every second oil change, why would you not buy RL's plug and save the cost of replacing the plug every second time
 
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