I pulled the debris deflector off and cleaned the radiator with A/C condenser coil cleaner and hot water blast. This did a great job of removing bug guts and organic matter. Not as good on the tar residue.

 

Applied degreaser, which seems to have removed some of the tar residue. Maybe next time I will get a strong orange oil degreaser.

 

How to easily clean the radiator:

1: Reach on either side of the front tire, grasp the top of the debris deflector, and pull the deflector out of the two clips.

2: Lift the deflector up and out.

I also removed the front fender. 4 - T-30 screws. Easy.

Now the radiator is easy to clean at home.

That is, so long as your radiator isn't filled with crud. If so, you will need to remove it.

 

How to easily clean the radiator:

1: Reach on either side of the front tire, grasp the top of the debris deflector, and pull the deflector out of the two clips.

Just returned from a ride in the Ozarks and decided to clean the radiator. Grasping the top of the debris deflector and pulling it out proved to be a challenge until I realized the "tabs" were preventing easy removal. Just use a small flat bladed screwdriver and press down from the top.

 

This may seem like overkill, but I can attest that (really) cleaning your radiator does make a difference. Maybe the radiator is to low on the bike, maybe the radiator is to small not sure. But the roads I ride on throw a lot of dirt, bugs and tar. Cleaning my radiator every 5 to 10 k keeps my bike from overheating in heavy traffic, long low gear travel or hard riding. If your bike gets hot this is a inexpensive first try.

 

I agree that cleaning will help, but this problem remains a design issue. Any radiator system should function with a standard amount of crud accumulation. However, in our case, even a clean radiator isn't enough to do the job.

I have had no crud on either of my GTL's when they overheated with predictable regularity when riding in heat, or slow riding up gravel road switchbacks, and in places like Pikes Peak - but sometimes it happens in normal stop-and-go traffic (no lane splitting except when we are in CA).

Our new Exclusive overheated twice yesterday sitting in a traffic backups near Easton and on Kent Island going west towards the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, in 85-degree weather, not even a particularly hot day. The bike is out-of-the-box new, never been in rain, nothing on the radiator at all. Given the consistency between my '12 pre-order, and now the new Exclusive, methinks BMW has undersized the cooling system, or hasn't properly calibrated its activation software.

 

I agree totally, mine is in pristine condition but has overheated last year and then this year when in Europe tackling mountain passes or trickling through cities.

I think the point is this:

We get our bikes serviced to keep them roadworthy and a reasonable person would expect a bike to work normally between services.

It would appear that quite a few of our bikes are failing with overheating problems even though they are maintained properly. Something is wrong, either a design fault or failure to service required parts to keep the bike working.

 

I already said it in another post, but during the 30000km (18000 mi) service my dealer cleaned out the radiator as it had to be removed for the valve check anyway. He knows it's a potential problem area so he cleans it even though it's not on the to do list of any service.

 

I cleaned my radiator by first removing the center plastic deflector. There was a handful of road grit captured behind it at the bottom.

I then blew compressed air through it using a small diameter pipe on the blow gun from back to front and then front to back. This removed all the bugs and other solid crud.

I then used the air conditioner coil spray cleaner (which foamed up and didn't really get into the cooling fins) and then Simple Green which seemed to do a better job of getting the film off. I then blew through the radiator with compressed air again.

On a recent 6,745 mile putt my fan would come on frequently but the temperature bars on the dash never went above 7. Last year my bike got hot enough for all the bars to light up and then turn RED . I will make sure I clean the radiator once a year using the compressed air and Simple Green.

 

Arizona Jim, you experienced what many of us have. Before cleaning: fan comes on but temperature continues to raise into danger zone. After cleaning: fan comes on but temperature doesn't raise into danger zone.

Nice to know others have found the same results.

Thanks for the tip with Simple Green. Just want to make sure it's ok for aluminum fins.

I know this is an extra step of maintenance, but it is a small inconvenience for such a wonderful (powerful) motor.

 

Thanks for the tip with Simple Green. Just want to make sure it's ok for aluminum fins.

Guys, the foaming A/c cleaners/brighteners are either alkali (foaming) or acid based (brighteners). They will destroy the radiator fins in short order if you are not careful. Pre-wetting with water is a must.
1- thoroughly rinse the radiator with fresh water PRIOR to using the cleaner, any coil cleaner. This allows water to sit between the fin and tube connections. The chemical will not get caught in these crevises therby causing corrosion.
2- If using an alkali base cleaner (for grease, oil) neutralize with acid base, the flush again with fresh water
3- If using an acid based cleaner (for scale, lime deposits, cement) neutralize with an alkali base then flush with water.

If chemicals are added to a dry radiator, the chemicals will SUCK into and remain in and under the small fin areas that are mechanically bonded to the tube and continue corroding until they get neutralized by the resulting metal powder of the fins. Once caught there, they are almost impossible to rinse out so be very cautious.

 

I'll bump this older thread.

Hydrogen peroxide works very well for getting the organic debris (bugs) from the radiator fins. Its cheap and I have a large squirt bottle filled with it. I soak the bugs with it (sometimes several times) and rinse clean. I also use it to remove bugs from the windshield and front plastics. Its harmless to the paint to works very well.

 

I'll bump this older thread.

Hydrogen peroxide works very well for getting the organic debris (bugs) from the radiator fins. Its cheap and I have a large squirt bottle filled with it. I soak the bugs with it (sometimes several times) and rinse clean. I also use it to remove bugs from the windshield and front plastics. Its harmless to the paint to works very well.

You use it 100% or diluted?

 

Brian,

Straight up 100%.

On the windshield and plastics. I spray and let sit, when the bugs quit foaming I wipe it off with a soft cloth and reapply if necessary. Follow up with window cleaner or spray wax. I've used it for years on a couple different bikes now and its had no adverse effects at all. This is the first bike with a radiator I've used it on and it worked as good as anything for the bugs, takes a couple applications and the leftovers rinsed out with a garden hose.

 

Perfect...Thanks :gm
Going to give this a try.

 

Using compressed air and a long wand to get behind the radiator helps clean the little buggers out too. Before I started using cleaners and the air I would occasionally go above the 7 bars and into the red zone. I haven't since.

 

My '12 overheated for the first time last week. Dealership wanted to try using a radiator specialist to professionally clean the radiator. Ok I say... Why not?!

Today I get a call from dealer telling me the radiator was dipped but now there is a clog inside the radiator. The radiator shop would normally "rod" it out, but can't since the radiator is curved.

I say great if it's clogged this would definitely fall under my extended warranty as I'm not pouring bubblegum in the coolant. Service manager tells me well it might not be a material issue so the extended warranty may not cover it.

Now I'm supposed to leave for Colorado on July 6. In the last month I've had to replace the front wheel bearings and both shocks. If I have to cancel this trip because of this bike, i'm going to push it off a cliff

 

Service manager tells me well it might not be a material issue so the extended warranty may not cover it.

uzzled:

What's the point of that insurance if it doesn't cover this?

Who is the insurer?

 

Zurich

 

They will cover it. If not BMW area representative should be contacted.

 

And I had to ask myself the same question what's the point of the extended warranty?

I had them on my 09 12 LT and they cover the replacement of my rear swingarm when the pivot joint rusted so I don't know what the difference between that and this would be

 

UPDATE:

Radiator has a blockage that cannot be cleared, so a new radiator is en route. A claim will be filed with Zurich so hopefully my money will be reimbursed. I cannot wait for an adjuster to see the blocked radiator, as I'm leaving on the 6th.

Fingers Crossed

 

Why does it take 11 days for an adjuster to get out and look at a radiator, that when he sees it, probably won't know what he is looking at, since the problem seems to be an internal blockage. I'd be livid if I had to wait for the adjuster before I could get my bike back.

UPDATE:

Radiator has a blockage that cannot be cleared, so a new radiator is en route. A claim will be filed with Zurich so hopefully my money will be reimbursed. I cannot wait for an adjuster to see the blocked radiator, as I'm leaving on the 6th.

Fingers Crossed

 

I can attest to the importance of keeping the radiator clean.
While a a tip recently, a long way from home, after the overheat red triangle lit-up five times on one day I managed to get myself to the Asheville dealer.
15 minutes later they gave the bike back, after also topping my oil.
The remedy: a good dose of pure H2O on the radiator.
This was two weeks ago now and I never saw the red warning triangle again.
Thanks to BMW Asheville for putting me back on the road quickly.
Lesson learned! keep that sucker clean.

 

Just got back from Alaska. Bike overheated while following slow pilot car on wet gravel, for many miles. had lots of wet gravel on this trip. Took ferry from Skagway to Bellingham WA, then more overheating going over North Cascades highway. washed radiator with hose in Winthrop, lots of dirty water, no more overheating.

Today I removed the rock guard, and really hosed it out, more dirty water. Think I got the overheating problem fixed.

Did an oil change too, now it's clean on the inside too! ?

 

radiators aren't usually covered under extended warranties, I don't believe:frown:

 

Simple green makes one that is safe for Aluminum. It says it on the bottle. I use to work with aircraft when I was working as a A&P mechanic and they would use that one on aircraft however I used the other stuff on car engines like my Toyota truck with the engine is Aluminum and had no issues yet. I think its important to raise it out real good.

 

Many Harley dealers sell products like Purple Haze. These cleaners are great for melting bugs and keeping the bike clean. Spray the stuff on a cool radiator and then wash it off after a few minutes.
I think that if we are not careful many of us are running around with under filled cooling systems. While BMW has a way to properly fill the cooling system the best way is to check the system after it has cooled off and add coolant for your next few rides until it is stabilized.


I have not had cooling problems with the Exclusive but had severe cooling problems with the 2012 pre order due to mistake that was made by a dealer doing a 18000 mile service.
With the Exclusive I have had to double check all the work that the dealer does. I have since changed dealers.

 

While BMW has a way to properly fill the cooling system the best way is to check the system after it has cooled off and add coolant for your next few rides until it is stabilized.

And, may I add, letting it cool off on the side stand allows for air to rise to the coolant reservoir. Almost self burping.

 

I haven't had my 2016 very long but I'm wondering if anyone has explored having a radiator shop upgrade the cooling system with a larger core. Pretty common in cars and trucks. Kind of extreme I guess but never hurts to have a little over capacity. Another thing that came to me is what about bikes destined for warmer climates like the Middle East and the like. There are a few police versions that I think are not built by BMW but they still might need HD cooling systems. Just wondering.

 

Guess it's time to clean my radiator. Thanks for this discussion

 

@firstime911 , no.

Duane