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International Man of Mystery
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Cruise control checklist assuming that you have no pertinent error codes:

Clutch switch set (I don't know how they are interlocked, both open, both closed or combinations)
Brake sensor switch front/ rear
ABS sensor front / rear (If you get an implausible wheel speed reading, ABS and CC will disengage)
Neutral switch (You should be able to start the engine with gear engaged and clutch pulled in)
Gear position sensor (Do you see the correct gear in the display?)
Lean angle sensor (above a certain lean angle, CC will disengage)
Run/stop switch intermittent
DTC kicks in (caused by a faulty wheel speed signal)

Yes it is going to be complicated to isolate the issue. I would start with the highly suspicious switch clusters
 

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Upside Down
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Marc, my thought is this the switchgear on both sides was changed under warranty so that being the case along with it is well documented they should still be covered as a faulty part regardless. Just push the dealership to get BMW to have another look at a replacement. Remember consumer laws still cover this sort of stuff and the fact it is well documented all over the world that the switch cluster has been an issue should help you get a result. The squeaky wheel gets results if you make enough noise about it and stick with the real issue, even your dealership should be able to get a result for you if not maybe a goodwill half-price replacement for both switches. The bike would be out of warranty but once a component has been reconsidered as such then they have replaced them it should still be covered. It is not that far from the same issue with the gearbox issue when they as in BMW went all the way back to 2016 through to the current models to replace the fault or the whole gearbox. Push that with a dealership and if need be see fair trading you might be surprised how soon they will come to the party even based on a customer relations exersice.
 

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Marc, I'm in agreement with most posted and will ad the following:
Seems like you are mechanically capable.
The switch clusters are easy (but TEDIOUS) to disassemble. take pic before removal. Check for connections that are not fully seated or water soaked & corroded. Magnifying glasses are a must for me. VERY SMALL WIRES!
I had similar issues when both my R & L clusters were replaced under warranty.
The mechanic ham fisted the wire formation and the micro connections were stressed giving me no cruise and grip heater.
I cleaned and lubricated the rubber seals, seated until you feel an auditable click, and carefully route the wires as the factory intended.
That was three years ago and haven't had issues since.
Best of luck. Joe
 
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Completely removed the ezcan device and nope still no cruise control. I'm out of ideas now......
Probably the left control set then. My R1200RT had a similar issue and in the end even switching the lights from low beam to full beam would cancel the cruise control. The left control block was swapped out by the dealer and no issues since.
 

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Premium Member
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can confirm that clutch isnt the problem, set light comes on and even if I let the throttle go slowly, rolls all the way off and set light goes out
Since the cruise sets correctly but goes off when the throttle is released, even slowly, that almost certainly points to just one thing....the sensor that detects that the throttle has been rolled forward (which kills cruise).

Perhaps post #2 in this thread (Cruise Control issues - what would you do?) may be of use.

Also, have a look here: Cruise control

While it is for prior models, the procedures may well be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Since the cruise sets correctly but goes off when the throttle is released, even slowly, that almost certainly points to just one thing....the sensor that detects that the throttle has been rolled forward (which kills cruise).

Perhaps post #2 in this thread (Cruise Control issues - what would you do?) may be of use.

Also, have a look here: Cruise control

While it is for prior models, the procedures may well be the same.
now even set light is not coming on.....
 

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International Man of Mystery
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So, it doesn't work at all. I took from your initial posts, that it works for a short time and then turns itself off. Now it seems that your butcher job with the switch innards made it worse.
Looks like you need to take a couple of thousands in your hands and spend it on switch-gear and the ridiculously expensive LED units to start with. After that if the CC issue isn't resolved , some diagnostics work is on order. Is there a credible maintenance record of the bike? Certainly looks like a problem child that requires some straightening out.
 

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Techmeister
K1600GA
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Velocity is measured while under cruise control. If it is not the disengaging switches, then I would suspect the input which I believe is the ABS sensors. If the wheel is no longer detected as moving the CC would disengage.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So, it doesn't work at all. I took from your initial posts, that it works for a short time and then turns itself off. Now it seems that your butcher job with the switch innards made it worse.
Looks like you need to take a couple of thousands in your hands and spend it on switch-gear and the ridiculously expensive LED units to start with. After that if the CC issue isn't resolved , some diagnostics work is on order. Is there a credible maintenance record of the bike? Certainly looks like a problem child that requires some straightening out.
right from my initial posts, I would try and turn the cruise control on, and as soon as I let go of the throttle it would roll right off......
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Just ordered new left and right switch blocks, new throttle module and clutch switch, just over 1700.00, only part they have to order in from Germany is the clutch micro switches.
 

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hopefully this works out for you, I hope you are not just throwing money at it without knowing what is causing your issue (at least from what i have read, the cause is still unknown)
good luck
 

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Did you recalibrate the throttle after desmantling the cluster?
If not calibrated, it could read bad and deactivate the cruise controll.
Hope you get it solved!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Did you recalibrate the throttle after desmantling the cluster?
If not calibrated, it could read bad and deactivate the cruise controll.
Hope you get it solved!
Have ordered new switch blocks left and right, new clutch lever switch and new throttle, as after keaving battery disconnected fr a few ours when re ran gs-911 tool over it said something about throttle calibration not completed, tried for the life of me to open the throttle up on the bar but unless someone has stripped the torques screw holding it together, I cant pull it apart to even clean it out, the throttle does feel a little gritty when rolling it on, not smooth. So worst case have a new throttle coming, only part that wont be here by the weekend is the micro clutch switch which has to be ordered from Germany........
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Have ordered new switch blocks left and right, new clutch lever switch and new throttle, as after keaving battery disconnected fr a few ours when re ran gs-911 tool over it said something about throttle calibration not completed, tried for the life of me to open the throttle up on the bar but unless someone has stripped the torques screw holding it together, I cant pull it apart to even clean it out, the throttle does feel a little gritty when rolling it on, not smooth. So worst case have a new throttle coming, only part that wont be here by the weekend is the micro clutch switch which has to be ordered from Germany........
I'm selling my wifes 650 to be able to buy the necessary parts :(
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Marc, my thought is this the switchgear on both sides was changed under warranty so that being the case along with it is well documented they should still be covered as a faulty part regardless. Just push the dealership to get BMW to have another look at a replacement. Remember consumer laws still cover this sort of stuff and the fact it is well documented all over the world that the switch cluster has been an issue should help you get a result. The squeaky wheel gets results if you make enough noise about it and stick with the real issue, even your dealership should be able to get a result for you if not maybe a goodwill half-price replacement for both switches. The bike would be out of warranty but once a component has been reconsidered as such then they have replaced them it should still be covered. It is not that far from the same issue with the gearbox issue when they as in BMW went all the way back to 2016 through to the current models to replace the fault or the whole gearbox. Push that with a dealership and if need be see fair trading you might be surprised how soon they will come to the party even based on a customer relations exersice.
They were changed back in 2017 and only have a 2 year warranty, so well out of warranty period now, am selling my wifes 650 to pay for all the parts, oh and i'm still wanting to buy that GPS off you even though the guy I bought the towbar off showed me on his 2 bikes a version 5 and a version 6 and says I need to get a 6 as the 5 wont do what i'm wanting it to do as you and I discussed. if yours does he says maybe you got a newer flash on it than on his version5
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Picked up parts today, doing the right hand switch block and throttle was easy then I moved to the left side!!!!!!!!!!undone the 2 screws holding the 2 halves together, unplugged the wiring, removed the bar end and for the life of me I'm at a brick wall, I realise the 2 halves stay together as there is a warranty sticker across them. Can someone please help this idiot out...........
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Picked up parts today, doing the right hand switch block and throttle was easy then I moved to the left side!!!!!!!!!!undone the 2 screws holding the 2 halves together, unplugged the wiring, removed the bar end and for the life of me I'm at a brick wall, I realise the 2 halves stay together as there is a warranty sticker across them. Can someone please help this idiot out...........
On and working, I did a pigtail from the old lead that goes under the tank As i'm beyond over wanting to pull the tank off tonight, so maybe on the weekend or some time soon, havent taken it for a run yet to see if cruise control is back or not, one thing I did discover is who ever had the left switch block off never replaced the little plastic cover, so will either fashion on up or avoid rain in a big way.
 

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Recalibrate the throttle with a GS911 or have your dealer do it. The leaned value of the throttle is set incorrectly, most likely by the dealer who replaced the switch gear. It should be an easy fix.
 
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