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Don’t get me wrong.....just had a biker thoughts moment....as I was slowing for a stop light, I thought about my down shifting. Sometimes I drop a gear bump the clutch drop another and so on... but many times I just stay in the gear I’m in let the engine slow me down till a light squeeze on the brake brings me to a stop then I tap drop to 1st from whatever gear I’m in.

Just curious if others do the same or different techniques.....
 

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Good or bad, I'm in the habit of downshifting through the gears and engine braking as I slow down to a stop rather than coasting in and relying totally on the brakes.
 

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Steve's Brother
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With our slipper clutch you can pull in the lever and down shift 2 or 3 gears at once and then let out the lever. The rear wheel won't hop around like older model bikes. Great for quickly down shifting when coming into a corner while running fast.
 

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Jim's Brother
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Like the Vandal, I downshift and end up in first as I'm coming up to a stop along with a quick blip of the throttle while downshifting to try and rev match. If I just pull in the clutch lever and tap down a gear without the blip it's not as smooth and I get the clunk. I don't like the clunk. I've been doing that type of downshift forever on all my bikes. Started with dirt bikes when I found I didn't care for the wheel hop when getting ready for a direction change. I know the slipper clutch keeps that from happening but I still prefer a smoother downshift than just letting the clutch out. If I ever end up with a shift assist bike it will take me some time to get over that habit.
 

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Sometimes I engine brake. Sometimes I don't. I was taught by my motorcop Dad to always be at the ready. Part of that (as stated above) is that I downshift as I slow so I'm in the correct gear if I need/want to accelerate. Engine braking adds the benefit of matching RPMs to speed, and keeps the bike and your head in the right gear.
 

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KBiK
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I downshift to let the engine brake help with reducing speed. Try to be in 1st gear at the stop but have often had the "oh ****, I'am in 3rd" and had to do some quick shifting or clutch slipping to move off the line!
 
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Same as Steve. Dirt bikes to all of the street bikes the same way. Engine brake down to 3k and drop another gear. Always in a good gear to move.
 

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I agree with RedCard:"Always be at the ready." I want to be in the appropriate gear for the speed I'm going.

There have been a couple of times I've been caught off guard when I just slowed down while staying in the higher gear and had to pull away. Of course the bike chugged and threatened to stall while I'm clunking through a couple of gears so I can pull away. Just one of many lessons I've learned the hard way.
 

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Sometimes I engine brake. Sometimes I don't. I was taught by my motorcop Dad to always be at the ready. Part of that (as stated above) is that I downshift as I slow so I'm in the correct gear if I need/want to accelerate. Engine braking adds the benefit of matching RPMs to speed, and keeps the bike and your head in the right gear.
This is too important not to emphasize. Always be in the proper gear for the speed just in case you have to suddenly accelerate quickly.
 

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I have little to add as I do the same as most, match gear to speed, sometimes engine braking. Mostly, I want to practice being smooth. During surface street riding, I'm typically in 3rd or 4th. I let off the throttle for engine braking, maybe clutch down another gear but then I'm usually slowing significantly that clutching down another gear and engine braking isn't really needed. I'll keep the clutch in and match the gear to the speed, ready to accelerate as mentioned. An exception might be hitting an unexpected red light and braking hard and fast. I''ll engine brake initially but will probably hold the clutch in as I brake hard and come to a smooth stop; downshifting as I'm able. So occasionally I will find myself having to toe down to first from second or even third in a very quick hard stop. And I'm one who always keeps the bike in gear at a stop, unless I need my left hand for something, which is rare. That's part of my Be Ready to move quickly mentality. Just a habit. I don't know that I've heard strong advice for or against it.
 
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I downshift to let the engine brake help with reducing speed. Try to be in 1st gear at the stop but have often had the "oh ****, I'am in 3rd" and had to do some quick shifting or clutch slipping to move off the line!

and I thought I was the only that did this...:laugh:
 
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Steve's Brother
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Seeing as how we are talking about matching the proper gear when slowing down I'll throw this out. Because this bike has so much torque it's easy to stay in a higher gear while driving in slower speed zones but then that makes it easy to speed in those zones so this is what "I" do.
In a 20-29 zone I'm in 2nd
30-39 zone in 3rd
40-49 zone in 4th
50-59 zone in 5th
60 or higher in 6th
see the pattern.
This keep the RPMs in an area where If you start exceeding the speed limit the sound of the bike etc. will notify you almost unconsciously that you might be speeding and you will be in the right gear for that quick get away if needed.

This may not be a revelation to most but it was to me several years ago when I started riding this bike.
 

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My range is the same Jim.
 

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No clutchless down shifters here?
 

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This is too important not to emphasize. Always be in the proper gear for the speed just in case you have to suddenly accelerate quickly.

When moving, I'm always in the power band....always.
At stop signs and stop lights, I'm in 1st with the clutch pulled in.


Joe
 

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Great input guys, thanx for the tips.

I don't understand why cars shift like butter, but my $30,000 Exclusive clunks like a 100 year old car. My new Goldwing clunked like crazy also.

I also have a FJR AE with Electric shift ....... Shifts are quiet and smooth with it. Not sore why all bikes didn't go to this system.
 

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The motorcycle will be more stable on decel if it is in gear, instead of coasting. Ideally, downshifting should be exactly the opposite of upshifting. Instead of rolling off the throttle for a split second, synchronized with a quick stab of the clutch, you blip the throttle synched with the same quick stab of the clutch. Done right, a downshift should be almost imperceptible - other than the engine sound - just like a proper upshift. A well-executed match-rev downshift does not upset the chassis like disengaging the clutch after a prolong clutch pull.
 
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