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They are $200 each new and far far cheaper used if one is so inclined and pretty easy to swap yourself, so taking labor out, $600 in parts vs $1100 warranty? Or did you have other claims made that the extended warranty paid for?

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Do NOT buy a used coil ffs, the amount of work to expose those regardless of who's doing the work is not worth having to repeat it just because somebody wanted to cut corners.

They can be had for less, new.
Euromoto electronics sells them for 180, you could theoretically order it from germany for slightly less too. I'm no math wiz, the exchange rate and shipping cost may negate the cheapness of it but it's an option.
 

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They're not that easy to swap are they?

I read somewhere that the jobs is at least 2 hours each (They're not likely to have failed at the same time). So, you've got 6 hours of time that is worth something. I never discount the labor completely...my time is worth something and I don't have a lot of it to waste on something like that.

I'd say that $600 in parts plus probably over that in labor definitely makes the warranty worth it.
The bulk of the work for just coil removal is the body kit, radiator assembly, re-assembling it all and refilling the radiator. I'd estimate 4-6 hours of labor if you were good at it but not rushing it. I wasn't in a hurry, so the process took a month doing little portions of it at a time while I figure it out.
The coils themselves are very easy to remove and replace (some easier than others).

It doesn't tell the full story but I have a Flickr account with various portions of the process.
I'd say i've earned an L1 BMW certificate from Hardknocks Tech School having navigated all that without hardly any reference material to work with.

(The shop I visited estimated my repair bill to be at least 1300 dollars. My repair cost substantially less.)
 

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On my ‘13:
Cylinder # 1 coil failure at about 36,000 miles. My tech cut me a deal, paid parts only.
Cylinder 5 coil replaced about 46,000 miles as a “preventative” measure while I had the bike apart replacing # 5 injector. chasing an intermittent miss. Miss cured.
Couple weeks after, cylinder # 4 coil got replaced during a WAG process that ended up NOT being the coil but a blonde moment on my part.
Cylinder # 6 coil failure in progress now at 52,000 miles. Ordered 3 coils to replace the remaining 3 original coils while I have it opened up 1 more “final” time.
I live / ride in the desert, it gets hot here. As well, simply due to where it is at, my radiator has taken its share of bugs / dirt / mud, limiting its ability to cool at times. Soooo, yes, I’ve seen the red triangle... a couple of times .. electronics don’t do well w/ heat.... and I do use a pressure washer and I ride in the rain. No rust tracks or any other signs of “water issues”. I’m calling BS on that theory..
My biggest challenge isn’t so much w/ the coil and injector issues or even the rear shock failure at 21,000 miles. It is European and I have always had a love / hate relationship w/ anything European. When it works, it’s amazing. When it breaks, its miserable, beyond complicated and stupid expensive.
My challenge has been finding an actual “mechanic” that understands that a computer is not the “end all”, it is just 1 part of the equation. That is why I have “tooled up” and got my own lift.
 

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Do you replace light bulbs every week so that they don't go out?
Funny you mention this. On my RT I replaced a headlight bulb about every 6 months. I always had a few in my garage, even with large hands I could replace one in about 15 minutes. It was a problem I could live with.

Picked up the bike and it runs as good as new. It is easy to fall in love again with this bike. The dealer, again said it was rare, at least in their experience. If true it is not an issue with me, if I can go a couple of years and about 20k miles. They said it would have cost about $400 outside of warranty. Ouch.
 

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I am definitely on the same page as you regarding heat, I think that is likely the #1 source of failure aside from age or electrical related stuff.
The coil itself seems to have some solid state gadgetry inside it.
The K16 engine runs very hot by default, if for any reason the cooling system underperforms, the temp will spike to what I think is an unhealthy operating temperature (the upper limits of what the HUD indicator shows).
I'm floating a few ideas on improving its performance but I'll hold off on those for a while until I address other more pressing issues.
I also have a 2014 GTLE, 13,040 miles and i just had my first experience with this issue. The check engine light came on while sitting still. When I went to go it ran rough and then went dead. I turn the bike OFF & then On. I started it up and the light went out and the bike ran fine. I drove it straight to my dealership and had the diagnostics ran: #3&4 coils & the clutch were showing fault codes. He recommended putting a fuel additive in to see if that helped. He recommended changing all the coils at once (cost is $200/ea coil) since it is a Labor intensive job and it would save me money in the long run (total job, $1,700/US). There is No warranty so far as I know and I am the second owner.
I want to do the work myself but I need some advice before starting. I consider myself an expert DIY'er, but this is my first BMW cycle, with lots of electronics.
Is this a DIY project or should I pay someone to do it? If it's take apart and back together, no sweat, but if it requires electronic and timing adjustments, errrrr, probably off to the shop I go (unless it's doable with the tools i have. I don't mind buying the tools. Sitting here waiting for the Covid-19 virus pandemic to ease, I have plenty of free time.)
Is there a way to protect the coils from the Heat or Mods to help the engine run cooler?
So many questions, so little time... I'm still learning...
 

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Soupa Mod
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This is an easy DIY project.

All the time is taking the plastic off and then the radiator. Pulling and replacing the coil takes 2 minutes. Then putting it back together and burping the rad.

I think BMW upgraded the coils. They look different too. They are not failing on newer bikes in anywhere near the same frequency as the older bikes.

This is a good time to replace your coolant and clean your radiator.
 

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I have to say that replacing the coils could be easy, but be aware of how you separate the air connection above them, they are ok but can be broken, And also getting the coils out can be a pain due to little leverage and easy to fracture the electrical connection. not really a problem on a duff coil, but total avoidance for the replacement. I saw on here and have adopted using a broad string (paracord) to wrap round to give better grip, don't hurry it
 
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I also have a 2014 GTLE, 13,040 miles and i just had my first experience with this issue. The check engine light came on while sitting still. When I went to go it ran rough and then went dead. I turn the bike OFF & then On. I started it up and the light went out and the bike ran fine. I drove it straight to my dealership and had the diagnostics ran: #3&4 coils & the clutch were showing fault codes. He recommended putting a fuel additive in to see if that helped. He recommended changing all the coils at once (cost is $200/ea coil) since it is a Labor intensive job and it would save me money in the long run (total job, $1,700/US). There is No warranty so far as I know and I am the second owner.
I want to do the work myself but I need some advice before starting. I consider myself an expert DIY'er, but this is my first BMW cycle, with lots of electronics.
Is this a DIY project or should I pay someone to do it? If it's take apart and back together, no sweat, but if it requires electronic and timing adjustments, errrrr, probably off to the shop I go (unless it's doable with the tools i have. I don't mind buying the tools. Sitting here waiting for the Covid-19 virus pandemic to ease, I have plenty of free time.)
Is there a way to protect the coils from the Heat or Mods to help the engine run cooler?
So many questions, so little time... I'm still learning...
The coils actually cost about 175 each from Euromoto electrics (a motorrad supplier). Don't replace what you don't have to.
It's not a difficult DiY project, it's just tedious and there are some tools you should have available before starting.

A radiator service kit (purge/fill), a full index of torx (both impact and regular), torque wrench when necessary (I don't use it much, I know how much force stuff needs most of the time). Impact guns for removal, these are situational, sometimes it's better to attempt by hand first. I have a specialty impact tool and 2 regular versions. There are torque sticks specifically for the values BMW specifies, a little under is better than over just FYI.
I had a mechanical background just not with bikes so I guess I handled it OK. There will be scads of fasteners, use baggies and label them (i've used cloth bags with closable ends and tie it to the appropriate area).

If you have no mechanical ability, and lack the proper tools I wouldn't suggest it, but again it's not a real difficult service. I researched what tools I needed and ordered them, along the way I discovered there were other tools needed so that added to my down time (not a bad thing during winter anyhow) and ordered those.

This is not like cracking open the heads and doing valves (which I never got around to but did some research on it).
Most of your work is research and acquiring tools, mine certainly was. That is where I'd suggest most of you who attempt this for the first time with no assistance, start your journey.
 

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@Dale1600 I will refer you to my blog postings about the k16. Some if it should be useful although it was written more in an infotainment style publishing than a tutorial.

There are ways of improving cooling, one that I never attempted but was contemplating experimenting with, was adding forced induction (fans) to the oil intercooler ducting at the front of the bike. The reason for it was that passive ducts don't work when the bike is not moving fast enough, I thought it was possible to improve it in some way.

The other is keeping your radiator clean, and optionally putting some fine mesh (metallic) around the front of the very delicate BMW radiators (both oil and the other radiator). Keeping those free of debris will go a long way towards making sure the bike runs consistently cooler. Changing up your fluid mixture may help some as well as doing a full purge/flush periodically to keep that internal aspects of the radiator clean.
 

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@Dale1600 said the dealer also reported he had a clutch fault code but the dealer did not elaborate. That's a new one on me. Anyone else ever had a clutch fault code? What is it?

Duane
 

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#2 coil, 5th in firing order, just diagnosed as going bad. Engine light comes on and even red flashing triangle. These go off sometimes when I restart bike. My independent mechanic says replace all coils as the amount of labor involved to replace one is great. Western Service Contract [extended service warranty] says they pay for coils. I'm guessing they will pay for only 1, but with labor paid for, I'd be dumb to not pay for other 5.

This all started 5K miles ago; battery is original 4yrs old; considered to be a possible cause for the engine light but when the fault codes were checked, the #2 coil was discovered to be going bad.
 

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There is no way to know if/when a coil is going to fail. Your independent mechanic is not giving you good advise. FWIW, it's a little less than 2 hours labor to change a coil. Strongly suggest you just have the one coil changed.

Duane
 
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#2 coil, 5th in firing order, just diagnosed as going bad. Engine light comes on and even red flashing triangle. These go off sometimes when I restart bike. My independent mechanic says replace all coils as the amount of labor involved to replace one is great. Western Service Contract [extended service warranty] says they pay for coils. I'm guessing they will pay for only 1, but with labor paid for, I'd be dumb to not pay for other 5.

This all started 5K miles ago; battery is original 4yrs old; considered to be a possible cause for the engine light but when the fault codes were checked, the #2 coil was discovered to be going bad.
Replace battery too, my OE battery of the time was sh--. T.B.H 190 CA battery from factory was so underwhelming when starting anyway. So I replaced with high power lithium, much happer after coils and battery done.
 

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Just replace 2 coil at 20,000miles. Total at West Valley Cycle is $664.35.
2 x 12137722679 SparkPlug Shaft Ingnition Coil $415.3
1 x bmw Cooland $24.75
service fee, taxes, 1.5 hr labor
 

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you can get them second hand off ebay, not warranty but a **** of a lot cheaper, if you don't break anything. 1.5 hours is really quick
 
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