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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,


Hope I am posting in the right place.


My front shock dumped the oil this winter on a cold day. I am going to go the Wilbers route and wondering if anyone has done the change out themselves, both installation on the bike and ESA module to the shock. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,


Craig
 

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@Fowl998 , yes, this has been done by several on the forum. Go to "tools", "advanced search", and type in what information you're looking for.

Duane
 

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The service manual CD is the first important tool you'll need. It will also show you what specialty tools you'll need and it's basically just one tool that's a deep socket with part of it cut away to allow an Allen wrench to be used in conjunction with it. The CD will explain it's use better than me trying to type it out. I also needed a Torx T55 that I didn't have in my tool box but that can be bought locally. Make sure you get a 3/8 drive T55. A 1/2 drive size will be too big in diameter to fit in the recessed hole of the bike's frame.

Most, including me, sent the removed shock to the shop you buy the Wilber shock from ( for me it was Ted Porter) to have them take the ESA unit off the old and put on the new. I don't know if there's any computer setup steps once the swap is made. I do know you have to make sure you put the settings on one helmet and comfort mode before removing the shock.

It takes some time but the service CD does a very good job of walking you through it. However, there is one thing that I changed compared to the manual. It showed a low profile scissor jack under the front tire to lift the front end. Price those bad boys out! I put jack stands under my engine guards, removed the front wheel and put the axle back in. You do have to manipulate the fork brace to get the shock out and the method I used worked well for me.
 

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You kind of learn as you go so I would figure a day to remove and the same to install. For me, watching the clock can lead to rushing and making mistakes. My brother Jim likes to keep track of time better than me so he may chime in here and give a more accurate time frame when he replaced his front shock.
I forgot to mention that you'll need a 14mm Allen wrench also. You can buy it through your dealership along with the socket with the cut out but I bought mine at a tool store. I also had to cut down the short end to make it a little shorter so it fit in the cutaway socket.

I'll be out of state through Friday but feel free to PM me with your phone number if you want to talk about the project. I could call you once I get back. I'd be happy to help you with some of the things I learned. No big things but it may save you some time and frustration.
 

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I'll be doing front and rear shocks after this riding season and picked up the service CD mainly for this job. This is valuable real world info. Thanks.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Chiming in here as Steve suggested. It took me about 8 hours to remove and another 8 to reinstall. This included calling Steve several times and taking a dinner break. As he mentioned buy the service manual CD from your dealer or one of the dealers who sells online https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=53246&rnd=07242017 I used a laptop to access the CD that way I could have it next to the bike as I went along. Note the CD is PC compatible not Mac.

Steve's tip of removing the front wheel and reinstalling the axle was very good. That way you can grab the axle and wiggle the front end around as needed to remove the old shock. I was able to support my bike by putting jack stands under my Illium engine guards.

There are some tricky steps in removing the shock such as getting the ABS brake module out of the way to access a bolt. It's a struggle but can be done. Also twisting the shock around to actually pull it out of the bike was interesting but then all of a sudden it drops out.

I took several pictures with my phone as I went along so I could remember the proper routing of hoses and wires.
 

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Also, as a reminder, there’s something Teds wants you to do before taking the shock off and sending it in. I can’t remember exactly, but it’s something along the lines of put suspension to 1 up, Normal. Make sure to ask, if they don’t tell you.
 

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Craig, You don't mention how old your bike is. Is it under warranty or and extended warranty?
 

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Experience is priceless. I did a ride in install of Wilbers with Herman in Florida. He removed old front and rear shocks, removed ESA from old shock and installed on Wilbers, installed new front & rear Wilbers, shortened side stand (I had Wilbers 30mm lowering option) and bonus fix of broken rider foot peg...all in 7 hours. I wasn't there to watch...he loaned me his GS to tour the area while he did the conversion transformation. I say transformation because the bike's handling and road feel were transformed with the Wilbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys. Great to know there are so many helpful members on the forum.


The bike is a 2012, so out of warranty. I am not the original owner. Just picked it up last fall and only put about a 1000 miles on. Really like the bike but I'm a little discouraged having to dump time/money into it already. I never would have thought moving it when it was cold out would cause a shock failure. I've been a Ducati guy for quite a while so I am used to doing my own wrenching and quirkiness but I was hoping it would get through at least one riding season without digging out the tools :)
 

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... getting Old ...

Chiming in here as Steve suggested. It took me about 8 hours to remove and another 8 to reinstall. This included calling Steve several times and taking a dinner break. As he mentioned buy the service manual CD from your dealer or one of the dealers who sells online https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=53246&rnd=07242017 I used a laptop to access the CD that way I could have it next to the bike as I went along. Note the CD is PC compatible not Mac.

Steve's tip of removing the front wheel and reinstalling the axle was very good. That way you can grab the axle and wiggle the front end around as needed to remove the old shock. I was able to support my bike by putting jack stands under my Illium engine guards.

There are some tricky steps in removing the shock such as getting the ABS brake module out of the way to access a bolt. It's a struggle but can be done. Also twisting the shock around to actually pull it out of the bike was interesting but then all of a sudden it drops out.

I took several pictures with my phone as I went along so I could remember the proper routing of hoses and wires.
... Iam more than half way thru installing new Wilbers on my 2011 GTL ... - but i think I might have mountet the front , the wrong way ... can you see on your pictures what way the wire is locatet ? ... is the wire and connection facing forward, or backwards ???
... or if anybody else can remenber what way ... CD dont have any clue, only on the routing of the wire ...

... darn' its hard to get old, cant remember how i did it 10 days ago ... :)

thanks for any advise
 

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... never mind ...

- I found a drawing somewhere here on the forum, from the spareparts catalog i belive ... turns out I did mount the front strout the wrong way ... 4 screws on the tupperware from being complete with all the work, I turned around and did the whole job once more !!!

- I ended up with the wire/connection pointing backwards ... I hope this i the right way

Time for cold beer and tobacco ... :nerd:
 

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A cell phone camera can save your bacon if you take a lot of pics during the disassembly.

I know because it has saved mine more times than I want to admit.

I spend more time looking for my tools than I like to admit also. Sucks to get old.

Sent using Tapatalk
 

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Experience is priceless. I did a ride in install of Wilbers with Herman in Florida. He removed old front and rear shocks, removed ESA from old shock and installed on Wilbers, installed new front & rear Wilbers, shortened side stand (I had Wilbers 30mm lowering option) and bonus fix of broken rider foot peg...all in 7 hours. I wasn't there to watch...he loaned me his GS to tour the area while he did the conversion transformation. I say transformation because the bike's handling and road feel were transformed with the Wilbers.


You lowered a K1600 using Wilburs front and back? I didn’t know they offered that option although I’d heard of RT‘s done that way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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