BMW K1600 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: Read if you wish but the broken thread is out!!! END EDIT

I'm working on my old 2004, ST1300 to get it ready to sell and today hit a major problem that I hope some mechanics could give advice on.

I decided to change the shaft drive oil (among several other maintenance items). Simple job, easy access. BUT... I attempted to remove the Aluminum filler plug with a 17mm socket and the cover sheared off the threads. It took almost no force to turn - in fact at first I thought - wow, that was really loose.

I now have the broken off thread in the drive casing and want to know if anyone has any suggestions to recover from here? I have done nothing at this point except take some photos.

I have two main concerns:

1. That the female thread is left in tact
2. That I don't get debris inside the casing

I will, of course, purchase a new cap - I already have a new O-ring.

Cheers
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
We'll, perhaps someone else has a better idea but here is mine: I'd slot each side of the plug with a Dremel and back it out with a large flat blade.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,213 Posts
You didn't state what size the hole is but they make some big spiral screw extractors that might work - I think they go up to about 1-5/16" hole size. They are expensive though @ >$30.

Another option is to take a hacksaw blade and carefully remove it in sections. You would saw down to just above the thread and then carefully pry/chisel each section out. Be careful that you don't get any metal shavings down inside the case though as they would be very difficult to remove since it is aluminum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You didn't state what size the hole is but they make some big spiral screw extractors that might work - I think they go up to about 1-5/16" hole size. They are expensive though @ >$30.

Another option is to take a hacksaw blade and carefully remove it in sections. You would saw down to just above the thread and then carefully pry/chisel each section out. Be careful that you don't get any metal shavings down inside the case though as they would be very difficult to remove since it is aluminum.
The I.D. measures about 29/32" (23 mm). A screw extractor sounds like a good option, I'll take a look at what's available.

I''d be concerned at debris falling inside if I attempt to cut slots with a hacksaw blade or Dremel (and possibly ruin the female thread in the process).

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
There really shouldn't be much force holding the rest in there, have you tried to just turn it? A screw extractor will work if you can get a big enough one but I would be surprised if it is hard to turn at this point.
Yea! That did occur to me but I thought I'd get some input before trying anything. Also, not sure how to turn it. I really need some expanding collet with a knurled O.D.

Cheers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,268 Posts
You may even try something as simple as a wooden dowel, sort of wedged on the hole....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It's OUT!!!! DISASTER AVERTED

Thank you earthling! (I guess there a lot of those on this forum) but you know who you are.

I started to wipe it down with a rag and guess what? it started to unscrew! I have the piece in my hand with no damage to the casing. :)

I guess my previous experience with bike rebuilds has given me a cynical approach to problems like this.

Thanks to all for their input. I appreciate the fact that I can call on fellow K owners for some Honda help.

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
You may even try something as simple as a wooden dowel, sort of wedged on the hole....
I think I'd have tried this next as I have a reasonable wood workshop and could have put a quick taper on a dowel.

Thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,268 Posts
With the cap snapped off, there should not be too much resistance, and certainly no rust. Just ole farm boy mechanics...?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
With the cap snapped off, there should not be too much resistance, and certainly no rust. Just ole farm boy mechanics...?
That's right, the force is off the thread without the head. I guess that's why it just unscrewed by hand.

Cheers,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,964 Posts
Derek,
Do you belong to the www.st-owners.com forum? If not join up and list your bike in their classified section. This would be your target buyers for your ST1300.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Derek,
Do you belong to the www.st-owners.com forum? If not join up and list your bike in their classified section. This would be your target buyers for your ST1300.
Jim, I am actually STOC #103. I joined when I had my ST1100. But I haven't been on the forum for years. I'll probably have to rejoin. Thanks for the tip.

Cheers,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
711 Posts
Jim, I am actually STOC #103. I joined when I had my ST1100. But I haven't been on the forum for years. I'll probably have to rejoin. Thanks for the tip.



Cheers,
And I thought I was special with a #665. Running across a lot of prior ST owners here. If only Honda had come up with something slightly close to the K1600, and no the GL1800 is not that bike.

Sent using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
And I thought I was special with a #665. Running across a lot of prior ST owners here. If only Honda had come up with something slightly close to the K1600, and no the GL1800 is not that bike.

Sent using Tapatalk
Yeah, an updated CBXish bike. As you can see from my signature, I've had almost all Hondas.

Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
The VFR1200 filler plug is the same very light weight aluminum. It should not be tightened much past hand snug, but too many folks cranked it down like a normal bolt. Aluminum doesn't take kindly to over torquing. Even if it does snap off right there, it has been taken past yield strength and can easily break like in your case.

When you put the replacement one back on, use an in-lbs torque wrench ans set it to 1/2 the Honda spec'ed value. Most torque wrenches are not that precise and can easily over torque even if you set it to the correct setting, particularly if the threads are lube, which is hard to avoid in this case. If 1/2 feels snug and won't unscrew easily with 2 fingers, I'd leave it there. If not set to 2/3, and try again.

I've done it so many times I usually just go by feel. 8yrs and 2 VFR1200F and I've yet to break a single filler cap.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
554 Posts
I don't see any corrosion on the threads, I would image the torque holding that inside the threads is minimal. I would remove it with a center punch and a hammer. Tapping it lightly in counter clockwise action should spin it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
And I thought I was special with a #665. Running across a lot of prior ST owners here. If only Honda had come up with something slightly close to the K1600, and no the GL1800 is not that bike.

Sent using Tapatalk

Another prior ST1100 owner here. Great bike, but boring. So boring I kept it for 10 years . . .
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top