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Glad they fixed the software to allow any channel to be any function. My Gen1 installed on my bike has an unused channel due to the old choice of 4 options limitation.
 

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Glad they fixed the software to allow any channel to be any function. My Gen1 installed on my bike has an unused channel due to the old choice of 4 options limitation.
As a beta tester, that was one of my suggestions. They had 3 pre-programmed maps originally, more recently expanding to 4. I asked why they had any preprogrammed combinations. Let the user choose the function of each channel. Sounds like they listened.
 

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Got my Gen II installed and as yet, not very impressed. It *might* be the lights causing some of these issues, but I've got a few issues I haven't yet been able to resolve.

- Anything less than 60% illumination (night or day) causes the lights to flicker.
- "Strobe on Flash to Pass" doesn't work. At best I'll occasionally get a weak random flicker but never an actual full strobe.
- "Strobe on Horn" doesn't work at all, ever.
- Modulation only works when the Day intensitiy is set above 60%. Anything less gives a random psychidelic flickering. (Not that I even want to use modulation, but it should still work).
- "Alternate on Hazard" sort of works in that the lights strobe (rather than turn on) out of sequence with the front flashers. While this will certainly garner attention, it may also dazzle oncoming traffic so at this point it's probably best to leave that feature turned off.
- The "Auxillary" circuit can only be left on for a maximum of 30 seconds after the bike is turned off. Sure, leaving a circuit on for hours at a time will eventually drain the battery, but I should be able to fuel the bike without killing power to my GPS or tablet.

What it all boils down to is so far at this point, given all the features that do not work properly, all I really have is a very expensive version of the set of solid state relays I already have installed on the other bike. With the exception of being able to adjust the instensity on the fly (as long as I don't go below 60%), I have gained ZERO features for 10 x's the price.
 

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Which lights? Did you use the 2-wire or 3-wire installation option? The 2-wire method is known to cause similar issues with some lights. That is why they changed the design to support 3-wires (power, ground, control). If you are using the 3-wire installation, are you sure you didn't reverse the power and control wires on the light hookups...that might explain all of the light related issues.

I have a Gen I and use it with Clearwater Darla's and all of the above work exactly as expected, even with a 2-wire installation.

Doesn't your tablet/GPS have its own battery that will bridge even an hour or two without aux power? In any case, you can certainly request a longer time. They seem to be open to suggestions and have added other user requested features in the past.
 

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Which lights? Did you use the 2-wire or 3-wire installation option? The 2-wire method is known to cause similar issues with some lights. That is why they changed the design to support 3-wires (power, ground, control). If you are using the 3-wire installation, are you sure you didn't reverse the power and control wires on the light hookups...that might explain all of the light related issues.
They are 2-wire lights using the 2-wire plug. (After straightening the 'hot' pin on the red plug so it would actually make a connection... :serious:)

Doesn't your tablet/GPS have its own battery that will bridge even an hour or two without aux power? In any case, you can certainly request a longer time. They seem to be open to suggestions and have added other user requested features in the past.
Yes, the devices have internal batteries but each of them operate differently when the power is removed. I understand not wanting to allow an aux circuit to have power indefinitely (I have suffered the effects of that. :mad:) but 30 seconds? I asked them <edit>to bump up the timeout to 30 minutes and I was told that running the aux circuit for 30 minutes would totally drain my motorcycle battery.</edit>
:confused:
 

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I asked them about that and was pretty much told that any more than 30 seconds would totally drain my motorcycle battery.
:confused:
What nonsense. :nerd:

What would be nice is if they allowed one or more of the circuits to stay on until the battery voltage reached a threshold voltage of say 12.6 volts. (Or a threshold voltage that the user could set.)
 

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CORRECTION: It was not 30 seconds they claimed would drain the battery. It was 30 minutes. (Gonna edit my previous comment here in a minute)

This was their response to my request to bump up the timeout for the Aux circuit to at least 30 minutes:

...also, you have to think in terms of the size of the battery - 30 minutes of excessive battery draining will kill your battery...
 

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It's still kind of a silly assertion. Something with a low current draw won't kill your battery in 30 minutes. For example, I have an Ipod charger that I've run for over an hour many times and not killed a battery.
 

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It's still kind of a silly assertion. Something with a low current draw won't kill your battery in 30 minutes. For example, I have an Ipod charger that I've run for over an hour many times and not killed a battery.
Agreed. I've left my GPS (one of the items I want to run a lot longer than 30 seconds after shut-down) fired up over night (to maintain accurate Trip Meter calculations) several times and it hsn't been a problem.

On the other hand, I have unintentionally left my "Switched" circuit on for several days and it did drain the battery. The Switched power circuit on my '12 is an actual switch that provides power to the switched power circuit on my Fuzelock. This runs the power for my aux lights and a dual USB socket which in turn powers my Sena Bluetooth dongle and either charges my USB jump battery or runs the tablet, depending on how I feel that day. My dash lights and GPS are wired to the "Always On" side. I also have one aux light wired to be able to be turned on any time, regardless of the status of the ignition.

In the end it looks like my GPS and dash lights will still be wired hot 24/7 and I may need to adapt to the USB socket and aux lights being only available when the ignition is on...

I could wire the '18 like I have the '12 but that really turned into a rat's nest of wires and added a level of complexity that really isn't needed. I cost us some time on the IBR after our crash because the remaining aux light quit working and I had to take valuable rest time to get it functional again. By running each side on its own ezCAN circuit I hope to prevent a single failure from taking them both out again.

Still not sure what actually caused the right side aux light to quit working but after I patched everything back togeter it worked for the rest of the rally.

 

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Agreed. I've left my GPS (one of the items I want to run a lot longer than 30 seconds after shut-down) fired up over night (to maintain accurate Trip Meter calculations) several times and it hsn't been a problem.
The problem for them is if they up it to 30 minutes, someone will leave something on it that will drain the battery in that time and they'll be blamed for it.
 

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The problem for them is if they up it to 30 minutes, someone will leave something on it that will drain the battery in that time and they'll be blamed for it.
That's a poor excuse. Especially when the feature is disabled by default and set for its lowest value when it is enabled. A dude has got to purposelyy turn it on and move that slider.
 

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That's a poor excuse. Especially when the feature is disabled by default and set for its lowest value when it is enabled. A dude has got to purposelyy turn it on and move that slider.
People complain about a lot less...and even sue for it.
 

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Crazy question. Does anyone run the Amplink/PDM60, the hex ezcan II, and Skeene controllers for brake and photons all at once? Different functionality different pluses I would imagine. If so (I hope) what are your thoughts on the functionality of having them all? Thanks SIFIRID


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I use a Denali Cansmart (Hex Ezcan rebranded) as a switched trigger for an Amplink.

I run additional lights and brakelights from the Cansmart though.

Not sure that helps you.
 

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I saw a post on FB that one owner of the ezCAN Gen II was informed via email that a new software release will be coming March 16th that will allow control of trailer lights. No word on whether or not they'll also make a pigtail available or how many wires it will take up.I'm thinking 2 of the 4 circuits. Anyone on here hear anything about that?
 

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I think it would be really cool if they would allow the aux circuits to stay on longer than 30 seconds. Seems they are deathly afraid of draining the battery if you leave a GPS on longer than 30 seconds.
 
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