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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted an USB socket into my topcase, this is my job:

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Step 1:
Open the topcase lower part (I understand later that dismount lower part was enough)

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Step 2:
Remove the screw in the corner and use the hole to drop the cable

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Step 3:
Place a connector inside the topcase shell (just in case the socked should be replaced you don't need to drop the cable again)

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Step 4:
Drop tha cable to the connector under the seat

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Step 5:
Places a waterproof connector between the cable and the battery (used to remove the topcase from the bike)

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Conclusion:
I did the same job some years ago on my first K1600 and did the same for a couple of friends as well.
It's directly connected to the battery so there no problem with can bus and so on...
Battery does not drain, unless you want to charge a space shuttle with the bike off 馃榾
 

Scammer Hammer
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Good job.

You can also snag the unused wire for the heated backrest on nonExclusive models for your power source. That is what I used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That鈥檚 correct but I would have power with the bike off for charging Bluetooth headset during stops. The backrest heater connector works only with the bike on


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Good job.

You can also snag the unused wire for the heated backrest on nonExclusive models for your power source. That is what I used.
That鈥檚 correct but I would have power with the bike off for charging Bluetooth headset during stops. The backrest heater connector works only with the bike on


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I believe @Prince point was that the two wires intended for the backrest heat could be used and connected to a PDM60 or direct to the battery. This would have eliminated the need to run extra wires.
Run the 12v here. Only the OEM connector is then needed.
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Scammer Hammer
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I believe @Prince point was that the two wires intended for the backrest heat could be used and connected to a PDM60 or direct to the battery. This would have eliminated the need to run extra wires.
Run the 12v here. Only the OEM connector is then needed.
View attachment 153359
You are correct but I meant that the wires are already powered by the bike so no wires need to be run.

Normally, for me, the Sena lasts all day and I charge after camp is set up.
 

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You are correct but I meant that the wires are already powered by the bike so no wires need to be run.

Normally, for me, the Sena lasts all day and I charge after camp is set up.
You must have the GTL Exclusive, as that wire pair is dead on most K1600s.
 

Scammer Hammer
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I remember now....I tapped into that wire on the bike side. Sorry, it's been 3 1/2 years since I did that.

It is controlled by my PDM60. If I wanted constant power it could come direct.
 

Scammer Hammer
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3,257 Posts
I did it that way so the top box could come off easy. Just unscrew the big connector.
 

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What I wish I knew before I did this.

1. The clips holding the supports for the trunk lid are circles. You ain't getting them off by pulling them. You have to release the pressure and raise them out of the groove on the retaining pin, and slide them off. Sometimes its easy, sometimes its damned impossible. Good luck.
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2. Pro Tip 1. Use a clamp of some sort to hold the trunk not locked on indicator out when putting the mechanism that attaches the trunk to the bike back together.
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3. Pro Tip 2. You have to take the trunk off the bike. Yes, leaving it mounted keeps it in place and at the perfect working height. But who knew the legs that hold it on the bike are part of the bottom's inner case - meaning you won't get it off no matter how many screws you take out if you leave the trunk attached to the bike. That may have taken me a little while to figure out.
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I like your solution and you did a nice job with it! For those who choose to install the USB socket in the lid instead of the base, here are my results.
Tap the backrest heater wires on the bike side.
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Leave the top case mounted and simply remove the lid cover. Finished product.
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