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Not sure why it wouldn't fit unless your bike has different equipment under the seat. There were some plastic tabs that are part of the fender that I removed to make room for the amp, but as you can see in the picture, it snugs in there better than anything else I've seen. Send me a picture of your bike. I'd like to see the difference.
Like I said, can't see your pic that well. I have an electrical module mounted there. Not sure what it is. I've been looking for an Amp that fits since I bought the bike. Would be nice to have more volume. I already compress my audio files which helps alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
This is NOT something to brag about.
Sorry dude, when you know Harley guys that dropped $4-5K on systems that aren’t much better than mine and I saved thousands of dollars vs, them….I think that TOTALLY gives me bragging rights. Also because I don’t have screaming eagle pipes, any advantage I might get from a distracted driver looking around to see where the music was coming from that prevents them from cutting me off or running into me gives me another day to brag all I want. And here is another factoid for you: IT AIN’T BRAGGIN’ IF IT’S TRUE!!!
On another note, if you are happy with your serene and tranquil crappy stock radio, why are you on the audio and Bluetooth page. I’m not trolling your posts. Stop trolling mine. I’m just trying to help people correct an embarrassingly under-designed audio system. Free of charge-by the way,
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Like I said, can't see your pic that well. I have an electrical module mounted there. Not sure what it is. I've been looking for an Amp that fits since I bought the bike. Would be nice to have more volume. I already compress my audio files which helps alot.
i have a module that is sitting forward of the amp too. It’s the anti-lock break module. At first I thought I would have to move it, but I didn’t. The amp is only slightly under the cross bar on the frame. That’s why it’s important that the amp be no thicker than 1-1/2 inches and no wider than 3”, otherwise you would need move the entire OEM system backwards. As snug as this is, the multi-pin connectors on audio control unit actually hold the amp in place. Those zip ties are mostly window dressing. You could probably get a slightly longer amp, but then you run into issues getting the wire harnesses to fit between the frame rails. My bike is a 2013. I would think that all the GTL’s would be pretty similar. Hopefully you can see it better in these larger pictures.
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I am not meaning to come across as trolling you. Thumbs up for coming up with a cheap improvement on the stock audio system.

Hearing you from a block away comes across as not a nice thing. It comes across as being arrogant. Perhaps you are exaggerating for effect.
 

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i have a module that is sitting forward of the amp too. It’s the anti-lock break module. At first I thought I would have to move it, but I didn’t. The amp is only slightly under the cross bar on the frame. That’s why it’s important that the amp be no thicker than 1-1/2 inches and no wider than 3”, otherwise you would need move the entire OEM system backwards. As snug as this is, the multi-pin connectors on audio control unit actually hold the amp in place. Those zip ties are mostly window dressing. You could probably get a slightly longer amp, but then you run into issues getting the wire harnesses to fit between the frame rails. My bike is a 2013. I would think that all the GTL’s would be pretty similar. Hopefully you can see it better in these larger pictures. View attachment 168314 View attachment 168315
Thanks for the pics. I'm about ready to tear my bike down for some maintenance. Will be a good time to up the volume on mine. Mine only goes half a block right now. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks.

Another question, I've heard that the tweeter spot isn't actually fitted with a tweeter - is that correct, and can you show how you mounted the new tweeter.
mine had a tweeter and I replaced it. I will post some videos soon. My understanding is that at some point BMW elected to go without the tweeters and removed them. In my opinion, for this application especially where the speakers could get wet, if water pooled for any time in the main cone, it would make its way into the coil. Not a good option. If you look at the Audison speakers the cones are almost like plastic so water can’t get in very easily. As for adding tweeters in that case, a simple hole saw bit to pot the hole in the cabinet wouldn’t be hard to do. The other option that I actually considered was attaching the tweeter to the speaker grill. The Audison set came with a couple of options and they would have looked good. I also have some videos on how I opened up the hole in the cabinet to fit the new tweeters. I’ll get those posted soon.
 

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i have a module that is sitting forward of the amp too. It’s the anti-lock break module. At first I thought I would have to move it, but I didn’t. The amp is only slightly under the cross bar on the frame. That’s why it’s important that the amp be no thicker than 1-1/2 inches and no wider than 3”, otherwise you would need move the entire OEM system backwards. As snug as this is, the multi-pin connectors on audio control unit actually hold the amp in place. Those zip ties are mostly window dressing. You could probably get a slightly longer amp, but then you run into issues getting the wire harnesses to fit between the frame rails. My bike is a 2013. I would think that all the GTL’s would be pretty similar. Hopefully you can see it better in these larger pictures. View attachment 168314 View attachment 168315
Sure won't fit on my 2016 GTLE. Not even close. Looks like that connector with two wires is different on mine and yours

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I bought my 2013 GTL last November and the first thing I wanted to do upon hearing the music was an upgrade. Looked high and low for info with little luck. Well... Not anything cheap anyways. THANK YOU for doing this! I had taken my bike to a audio install shop that came highly recommended and the dude never called me to discuss what my options were. So I gave up looking and am just dealing with crappy sound. I will probably have to come up with a way to mount it in a side bag or trunk as the guy who had the bike before me mounted a heat controller under the radio unit. No room for anything under the seat. Awesome write up and look forward to the video. Could you provide a link to the pictures in the meantime so I can zoom in on how you did the install?
How long did the install take you? What are the gain and decibel settings for each speaker? I think I'd prefer to go the route of Coaxial speakers rather than the tweeters to keep it a little simpler. Any recommendations? I've think I've heard Focals are good, thoughts? Thanks again!

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I can measure mine to see if it's different. First question, is do you have the amp pushed as far forward as you can under the cross bar on the frame? Did you remove all of the those plastic tabs that could be keeping the amp from being able to fit as close to the fender/wheel well as possible? I had to remove I believe three of them that didn't seem to have a purpose anyway. Can you take a picture of how the amp sits relative to the cross bar, a picture of your connector that you think is different from mine, and a picture of the area on the amp is supposed to fit with everything pulled out of the way. I'll also find a picture of what mine looks like.
 

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Did all that. I sent the amp back today so no more pics. The connector I suspect is the one in my pic just back of the one that is disconnected. Your pic that connector looks much smaller than mine. And that's what is sitting on the top edge of the amp.
 

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I am glad your happy with your mod, it looks great.
When I see a rider with a blaring stereo I'm reminded of the scene in the Adam Sandler movie Billy Madison. He pulls up to school with a Trans Am and the stereo is really loud. The kids aren't impressed. T
hat being said, I road with a guy on a B this weekend. His was modified with components from Russia (?). It sounded great, but I still like listening to Frank Zappa in my helmet.
Here's something I found on line, but I'm guessing this is more than $600. Mechanicsville Client Goes All-Out with BMW K 1600 B Stereo Upgrades
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Did all that. I sent the amp back today so no more pics. The connector I suspect is the one in my pic just back of the one that is disconnected. Your pic that connector looks much smaller than mine. And that's what is sitting on the top edge of the amp.
Here are a few photos of my connector. If the connector itself is in the way, I would try to see if you can make it fit without the connector. Mine only uses 2 wires which connect to the on board Nav system so it can speak directions. If you don’t ever use your Nav that way, then I wouldn’t even bother to reconnect anything. If you want Voice Capability with your Nav you could get a couple of speaker wire crimp connectors and direct wire to the pins.
My guess is there’s probably a reason for that type of connector, like audio system diagnostics or to update your maps. I also think that connector needs to be waterproof which is why it has the type of closure it does. So if I was connecting that way, I’d tape it up pretty good to keep any water out.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I bought my 2013 GTL last November and the first thing I wanted to do upon hearing the music was an upgrade. Looked high and low for info with little luck. Well... Not anything cheap anyways. THANK YOU for doing this! I had taken my bike to a audio install shop that came highly recommended and the dude never called me to discuss what my options were. So I gave up looking and am just dealing with crappy sound. I will probably have to come up with a way to mount it in a side bag or trunk as the guy who had the bike before me mounted a heat controller under the radio unit. No room for anything under the seat. Awesome write up and look forward to the video. Could you provide a link to the pictures in the meantime so I can zoom in on how you did the install?
How long did the install take you? What are the gain and decibel settings for each speaker? I think I'd prefer to go the route of Coaxial speakers rather than the tweeters to keep it a little simpler. Any recommendations? I've think I've heard Focals are good, thoughts? Thanks again!

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If it were me, I'd give the Audison APX4's a shot. Pretty much the same design as the AP4's I used, but have a low mounted tweeter so they will fit behind the grill. I'd cut off the tabs just like I did and I would try to use the existing speaker wires. They will probably work, especially if you are not using an amp. As for the speaker cases/boxes, I would absolutely line them with dynamat and fiber fill like I did. Every change you give these speakers to make additional sound come out from the speaker rather than vibrating through the back is going to give you the best performance possible. As for Focal and others, I don't know if you can remove the tabs on them as easily as I did on the Audison's. So there is that. If you want super easy, you could just go with a three tab drop in and you would have even less issues. My main issue (and it may just be me, but I was talking with the owner of a real high end audio install joint and he was pushing me away from coaxials because he said that dirt and water can build up in the space between the woofer and the fixed tweeter. It made sense to me, plus you can get some additional variety by using components. The nice though about the coaxials is they already have the crossovers built in so they are pretty hard to screw up. Here is a link to the APX4. As for the pictures, you should be able to save them and open them in paint or something. I need to find some time and I'll just save everything in downloadable links so you can save them as you like.

If I had videos to guide me, I guess I probably could have installed the amp in about an hour or two max. The speakers would probably take about 3-4 hours to remove the old set, pull them apart and apply the dynamat and put back together. If you run new wires and put crossovers in the lower right box, I'd guess that would take another couple of hours. So if you have all thumbs and aren't very good with tools, I'd say at least double that to 16-20 hours. If you are pretty mechanical, have all the right tools and supplies ready to go, I'd say 6-8 hours. An experienced tech that watched the videos and has worked on this bike could probably do the entire thing in about 4 to 6.

A very easy way to upgrade would be to use the Audison APBMW X4M. These are drop in three tabs. I'm not sure how far they protrude outward, but you might be able to rear mount them in your speaker cabinets. You just need to check the depth of the case to make sure they can handle a larger speaker, but I'm betting they could be face mounted.

The thing to look at is the frequency response. The AP4 have a response on the low side of 80 hertz up to 7500. The AP 1P tweeters can hit the high side between 1200 and 25,000 hertz. The lower the number is on the mid/bass the more base the speaker is capable of playing. Mine sound pretty tight. I am using the high pass crossover on the amp to stop any signal below 80 hertz to filter the lowest part of the bass out, so the amp removes anything below 80 hertz which effectively removes any distortion and allows you to really crank them up. You could also add an inline crossover that does the same thing as an amp without needing to buy an amp.

Send me a private message and I'll email you which ever videos you want to concentrate on.

Mark
 
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