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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some pictures of my install of a Slingshot Racing gas cap onto my 2019 K1600BGA. Applies to any 2017+ K1600 model.

First and worst part is tupperware removal. Only the center tank panel requires removal, I'm doing other farkles, so I stripped it naked.

Once the gas cap is exposed, remove the white electrical connector for the gas lid latch, if your bike is RKE. Pull off the 2 7mm vacuum recovery lines. Then remove the 6 screws holding it in.

Here is the stock cap removed, and the SSRacing one sitting in it's place.







Note that the stock cap has a "neck" that inserts into the tank with a flat gasket at the top. The SSRacing cap does not. It sits flush on the lip of the tank and uses an O-ring to seal against the lip. The instructions make a big deal about applying the supplied grease on the O-ring to get a good seal.

Also note that the cap has a 7mm (1/4") red vacuum fitting for vapor recovery. And a black fitting on the opposite side. More on that later.

This plastic ring is re-used with the new cap. It has nuts that hold the tank panels on. It also routes the vapor recovery lines. Then note the orientation of the ring vs the press fit nuts in the tank itself.



The SSRacing cap has 2 vent lines with 1/8" clear plastic tubing. To make these mate well with the 7mm vacuum lines, I first applied a couple of layers of 1/4" heat shrink tubing to the clear line, then on the last layer of heat shrink tube, I inserted a 1/4" vacuum splice fitting. Once the tubing is shrunk, it provides a very good seal.

I cut the 1/8" clear and 7mm vacuum lines to position the splice close to the cap where it will be easy to service in the future.



Then, align the vacuum lines to exit in the original positions, lube up the O-ring, and screw the cap down.



Finish off by tie-wrapping the now unused connector down. The connector being un-done did not raise any codes.

 

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This is going to sound negative but I'm truly wondering why you would do this? Seems on a touring bike the locking cap is a useful tool. Aren't those easy opening caps for race bikes?
 

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This is going to sound negative but I'm truly wondering why you would do this? Seems on a touring bike the locking cap is a useful tool. Aren't those easy opening caps for race bikes?
Lots of people do this mod, mostly on the older pre-keyless ride bikes. I didn't know they are now making the cap to replace the new keyless ride caps, good for them. No doubt they will sell a bunch of them. Though not as involved as the OP's bike, I put one on my 14 GTL and it takes several turns to remove the cap. At least for my model cap.

The reason I did it was my cap was keyed and the cap opened backwards, towards me. It's got to be the worst engineered part on the bike. Fueling up required removing the key from the bike and opening the cap, fight pump nozzle into the tank with the stupid cap in the way and fuel the bike.. It was a pain in the ass.

Best thing I ever did was replace mine. I don't worry about the non-locking cap either.
 

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With the way the cap opens toward the rider, it made it darn near impossible to fuel the bike while sitting on it. (Think rally bike)
Thanks for the detailed install information.


This is going to sound negative but I'm truly wondering why you would do this? Seems on a touring bike the locking cap is a useful tool. Aren't those easy opening caps for race bikes?
 

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With the way the cap opens toward the rider, it made it darn near impossible to fuel the bike while sitting on it. (Think rally bike)
Thanks for the detailed install information.

Ok I get it. Should I point out that it is a safety issue to refuel while sitting on the bike? Lol! I do it too all the time. Always wondered why BMW opened the top toward the rider. Guess they were thinking we would get off the bike (could have opened it to the side?). I like to hold the bike level to get the last drop of fuel, and of course I'm a lazy *******.


Thanks for the schooling.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Aaanndd, if you think getting the fuel nozzle in is hard on a GT or GTL (I know, I had a 2012 GTL) wait until you try to fuel a Grand America with tubular bars and bar backs !! When I went to LA recently and had to use those stupid vapor recovery California nozzles, it was **** near impossible and I spilled gas all over the place.


If someone wants to steal my gas, have at it. At least I'll be able to re-fill it without standing on my head.
 

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I have a 2012 GTL and just moved the hinge pin on the back of the locking cap...still have to use the key to remove but I can now remove the cap completely during refueling and still retain the locking feature.
 

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I always get off to fuel the bike, for two reasons:

1) Makes it easier to fuel my aux tank that's behind me.

2) Sometimes, that's the only time I'm off the bike to stretch my legs in the last 450 miles...

:k16:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I really hate stopping, so I usually REALLY need to go when I actually do stop. The worst, when you get to the door handle and find it locked.
 

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Thanks for the detailed "visual" w/explanation of the replacement process. This is something I'm wanting to accomplish before the riding season starts here in NWI.
 

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Have any of you had issues with fuel smell when installing the slingshot. Not having the long neck on this cap makes overfill very likely. I put mine on and think that my charcoal canister overfilled.
 

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I've had SSR caps on my non-keyless ride BMW's in the past (2012 below) and really liked them. No need to pull the key and unlock the OEM cap.

I won't put them on my current bikes since they have keyless ride---it kind of eliminates the reason for having a SSR cap, IMO.

 

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I've been riding my '13 for over six years. I always sit on the bike and fill it.
Yes, that the cap opens towards me is a bit annoying, as it using the key. But it's certainly not worth losing the locking capability, or the aggravation of switching it out.

My biggest issue is gas hoses with limited, or difficult, trigger pull.
But I manage every time to fill the tank with limited issues or fuel over-spilling....you see, I lean forward, lift my face shield, that actually look down the throat of the cap.
Relatively speaking, a non-issue...though I would prefer the cap flipped forward.
 

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Thanks for this post helped with my install and reinstall

Just a couple of notes that might help others

In the OP 4th picture on the right you can see a small hole - make sure to block that with the grease provided (there was a cryptic note in the package) else you will get a fuel smell and fuel will leak out of there on a full tank - This was a miss by me - hence the reinstall

On the connector - Autozone has a pack that has 2 1/4 to 1/8 connectors - part no 47308 - i used heat gun on low to make the 1/8 clear tubing slid over.
 

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