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Discussion Starter #1
I'm starting to reconsider adding lower rider pegs to my GTL. Original plan was to add highway pegs first and see if that provided enough change in position, but chronic tightness in my hip that's been worse x 2 months (the same time I've had the GTL :() has me rethinking whether I should just add them both.

I know I've read posts here about the Verholen pegs also moving the feet outward requiring shifter extensions, etc. Do the Suburban pegs do the same? Is one more or less than the other?

Any other tips/feedback from those who have installed either or both brands?

I know I will sacrifice lean angle so hoping for advice about the pegs, not the pros and cons of adding them. :)

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Fwiw I got significant relief (GTL low) by getting a Russel Day Long seat. If you're at your limits seat height wise it may not be an option but it worked great for me!


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Hey PDXRider,

I did put the Verholen on and I think from looking at the picture for both the Suburban and Verholen, they do move the pegs out about 3/4" and I did put the shift extender on as well. Now mine is a GTL, but still the leaning compared to my Victory is significant, I would have to leave it to those who have own sport bikes and ridden this bike to its limit prior to changing the foot pegs. I will be the first to admit that I am not that aggressive of a rider to push to scraping the pegs (OEM) but still think I can get even more lean before these pegs will hit.

I got the Veholen because of the infinite range of positioning.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dave, did you do any mod to the brake pedal too, or just ride toe-in?
-Ted
 

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+ 1 from Dave.....I also put on the Verhollen's and they moved my feet out about an inch. Also put on the shift extension and had to adjust the shift shaft (say that fast 3 times) about 1/2" lower.
I spoke with Illium about a month ago when I ordered the extension peg and asked if they were going to do a brake pedal extension for the K16 like they have for the 12 but there was 'no plan' at that time. I wish there was a way to extend the foot brake pedal w/o having to really modify it but there doesn't seem to be at this time.
I am truly not comfortable with the toe in position and I still like using the rear brake by itself sometimes. I find myself having to rest the arch of my right foot on the knuckle of the foot peg just to not have to toe in. Not an issue on the hwy. but in town is another story. I've been toying with the idea of making a slip over toe extender for that side but the wall thickness is not enought to hold at least 3 threads to support proper pin screws. Didn't want to make something sloppy so I've held off for now.
Gyro
 

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Like PDXRider, I plan on also getting the Verholen's, but I didn't realize they move the pegs out 3/4 to 1.0 inch? Does this outward movement change riding comfort in a negative way? The shift extension sounds like no big deal, and I could care about the rear brake since I never use it unless I'm on a steep incline at a stop.

After riding up to pick up my bike (200 miles) with my RT with a Russell seat, and back down with the K1600 with the stock "high" seat, I'm positive I'll get another Russell for the K1600. Not only is the stock seat uncomfortable after about 80 miles (for me), but I also had a couple hip cramps on the way down, and some knee pain on my 'frank-n-leg'. My RT had the lowered pegs with the Russell, so this a must have. And the combination of a higher Russell seat will work nicely with the lowered pegs.

If the pegs touch ground in a hard corner they will simply lever up a little :k16:
 

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Like PDXRider, I plan on also getting the Verholen's, but I didn't realize they move the pegs out 3/4 to 1.0 inch? Does this outward movement change riding comfort in a negative way? The shift extension sounds like no big deal, and I could care about the rear brake since I never use it unless I'm on a steep incline at a stop.

After riding up to pick up my bike (200 miles) with my RT with a Russell seat, and back down with the K1600 with the stock "high" seat, I'm positive I'll get another Russell for the K1600. Not only is the stock seat uncomfortable after about 80 miles (for me), but I also had a couple hip cramps on the way down, and some knee pain on my 'frank-n-leg'. My RT had the lowered pegs with the Russell, so this a must have. And the combination of a higher Russell seat will work nicely with the lowered pegs.

If the pegs touch ground in a hard corner they will simply lever up a little :k16:
The outward position is so slight in the scheme of things that having it lower being much better and noticeable (1.5") I don't think you'll notice. It should make a great difference. If you get the pegs first and it's not enough, when you get the RDL you could also make it a smidgen higher and that will straighten out the hip angle a little more.
 

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I have the Suburban Machinery pegs on my GTL, and I'm very pleased. They did not move my feet out, just moved them down far enough so that I can 'toe up' the shifter from a flat footed position, rather than having to twist my ankle forward to get my toe under the shift lever. I did not relocate the shifter lever. My inseam is 32". Hope this helps.
 

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Peg Kits and other stuff.....

I am replacing the Veholen with the Suburban. I don't like the extra 3/4' extension since I have been scraping the pegs just getting on the freeway. If you need the full 2" Verholen advertises, it places your pegs forward at near a 45 Deg angle which is ok but makes it almost impossible to use the rear brake safely if you have a size 12 or larger foot size.

I added a memory foam seat pad to get extra height and added Kuryakyn ISO highway pegs to deal with my knee freezing up after about an hour in the same position. I am hoping to get some relief when I get my seats modified but I just haven't had the time to get it done.

I recommend getting the shifter extension right away if you get either one of the peg kits and if you are 6'3" or taller I would love to hear how you are dealing with the whole issue of leg room and bent leg fatigue.

Thanks you.... :cool:
 

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I have the Suburban Machinery pegs on my GTL, and I'm very pleased. They did not move my feet out, just moved them down far enough so that I can 'toe up' the shifter from a flat footed position, rather than having to twist my ankle forward to get my toe under the shift lever. I did not relocate the shifter lever. My inseam is 32". Hope this helps.
Yeah, that is basically how the Suburbans worked on my RT, didn't have to adjust a thing. I must might get these again, it seems like the easiest, and I had no problems cornering on the RT with these. I guess couple this with the Ilium engine guards and highway pegs and it will be perfect!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, BMcCleave and 4449201, that's just what I wanted to know. Sounds like the Suburbans will suit me better than the Verholens.
 

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Dave,

Did you lower the brake lever and, if so, how did you do it. Pictures would be appreciated. I scanned your posts and looked in the gallery and didn't find anything.

George
Hi George,

I didn't lower the brake at all, and I am not sure how a person would do that, as it works better for me in the new position from lowering the pegs.

Dave
 

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Dave,

Thanks for the reply. I've got an idea that I'm going to try when my kit (Suburban Machinery) gets in. I have the GT so there would be some differences from what you might have done but I'm always looking for new ides.

BTW, I had the Suburban Machinery kit on my K13GT and lowered my brake lever on that. However, the frame layout is enough different on the K16GT that I've got to devise something new.

George
 

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Lowering the brake pedal on the K16 is not possible unless you physically bend the metal but I'm sure that would break it. It is a one piece billet.
What is important is extending the toe piece about and inch outward. This is where the problem exists. I just decided to live with it for now.
I have no issues peg scraping with the Verhollens and they are much lower and forward than stock.
Gyro
 

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Verholn vs Suburban Peg kit

I know I've read posts here about the Verholen pegs also moving the feet outward requiring shifter extensions, etc. Do the Suburban pegs do the same? Is one more or less than the other?
I bought the Verholen and swapped them for the Suburban. The advantage of the Verholen is the flexibility of the rotating adapter. The disadvantage is the added width. The added width was very annoying for my riding position. I am 6'4" and I was trying to gain length. The Suburban is much cleaner in appearance and gave me the extra length I wanted without the wider foot position. :cool:
 

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I have the Verholen pegs, set up directly below the originals. This gives much greater comfort, including hip pain relief immediately, although I haven't gone on a long ride with them yet.

I found no need to get the shift or brake extension. I am not a compulsive peg scraper so I haven't found that to be an issue for me either. Also have an RDL seat which is 10mm higher than stock.
 

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Lowering the brake pedal on the K16 is not possible unless you physically bend the metal but I'm sure that would break it. It is a one piece billet.

Gyro
Gyro,

If you look in front and above the footpeg, you will see a bolt that attaches the footpeg plate to the frame. It is inset about 1/2". My plan is to get a longer bolt, put a spacer in and mount an L-shaped bracket that drops down to contact the top of the brake lever. I did a similar mod to my K13GT but the bolt was flush so I could use the original bolt. No need to bend the lever. You do need to adjust the rod in the master cylinder to keep some free play in the pedal.

Is the lever machined from a billet or cast? I vote for cast.

Back to you.

George
 

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George,
I presume you are correct. Casting the piece is more likely for mass production.
I know Illium makes a custom brake pedal for the 1200 but not the 1600. It has a wider toe piece which is what I need to compensate for the Verhollen peg extra width.
I had thought of machining one but it proved to be just too much trouble. I admire your idea but I want to keep mine as simple as possible. I dont want to start messing with the master cylinder at all so a toe piece extension was as far as I was willing to go. I guess that unless someone comes out with a new one piece pedal, I will stick with stock.
Coming from years of conventional (non-integrated) braking, I am still trying to retrain muscle memory reaction of using both hand/foot brakes together. I have to conciously try to just use the hand brake and remember that they are one with this bike. I still like the foot brake in certain conditions. I just dont like that I have to really angle my toe inward to get to it now.
Just goes to prove the old adage--one change causes two others....if it ain't broke.....
Gyro
 
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