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Lowering the shifter peg

I have the Suburban Machinery driver pegs on my GTL.

Now the shifter peg is too high.
The cam that alters the peg height doesn't actually lower it.

I can see that the adjustable rod can be changed, but I couldn't
get it to release using two wrenches. I was afraid of breaking the
rod and have no shifting!

How has anyone lowered that peg?

Thanks, Dave
 

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I lowered mine when I put on the toe shift extension peg. You have to use two wrenches, one on the shaft indent to keep it from turning and the other on the two keeper nuts. I lowered it about 2/3".
Gyro
 

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Note that the shaft is threaded right hand on one end, and left hand on the other. That's so the rod ends move closer or further from each other when the shaft is turned. Look closely and turn the jam nuts in the correct direction to follow the threaded portion.

Gary
 

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Note that the shaft is threaded right hand on one end, and left hand on the other. That's so the rod ends move closer or further from each other when the shaft is turned. Look closely and turn the jam nuts in the correct direction to follow the threaded portion.

Gary
So, if I hold the shaft from turning, do I turn the lower nut clockwise or counter-clockwise? This is why I asked since I guessed that it was not a standard situation and I didn't want to strip the nut or shaft by turning it too hard.

TIA
 

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So, if I hold the shaft from turning, do I turn the lower nut clockwise or counter-clockwise? This is why I asked since I guessed that it was not a standard situation and I didn't want to strip the nut or shaft by turning it too hard.

TIA
OK, let's make this easy. Put a 6mm wrench on the machined flat portion of the shaft to keep it from rotating. Put a 10mm wrench on the lower nut. Pull the upper end of the wrench towards you to loosen the nut (it has reverse or left hand hreads). Same for the upper nut...pull the wrench towards you to loosen (it has normal or right hand threads).

Look carefully at the threads. See how they taper relative to the jam nut? The nuts turn in that direction to loosen.

To extend the shaft and lower the shift rod end once the nuts are loose, turn it with the 6mm wrench or by hand towards you.

If you go too far the rod ends will come off the shaft. If so, just start one end in a rod, and then the other. It's good to have at least some (3 turns minimum) threads remaining in the rod end for safe attachment.

Some rod end bearings have a hole to detect minimum shaft engagement. A small wire inserted in the hole must be stopped by the shaft threads to be safe. BMW doesn't offer that feature.
 

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For those of you who may be so inclined....Illium Works now has the driver floorboards for the GT/L's. I have a set on the way. Should come today and I'll report once mounted.
Gyro
 

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Just installed the Suburban foot extensions

I just received and installed the Suburban foot peg extensions. They are nicely machined/finished and easy to install. One thing that I noticed right away was that when I put both feet on the ground, I had more clearance in front of my shins because they move the peddle slightly forward. This is another advantage for me (29" inseam) that I hadn't expected. :gm
 

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Leg Discomfort

My legs were killing me after 8 hours on the bike. I was much more comfortable on the RT, so I'm assuming the riding position on the K1600GTL low seat puts the legs in a more scrunched up position. I'm trying highway pegs and if that doesn't solve the problem, I'll be adding the Suburban lower pegs. For some reason, I couldn't find a position where my legs muscles could relax, no matter how I placed my feet on the pegs.
 

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Well, I promised a report....here you go.
I really 'stepped up to the pump' on this one though. I originally installed the Verhollen adjustable pegs and they were ok because they are able to rotate to a more comfortable position. They lowered about 3/4" but also moved my foot outward about an inch. This made me have to install an extension on the shift peg (no problem, works great). However, I found that I had to 'toe in' on the foot brake and that was very uncomfortable. No plans in the works yet for a new brake lever.
I decided to try a different combination...I ordered a set of floor boards from Illium and installed them last week...they are great (coming from a Harley, I liked them anyway). Still, same brake pedal issue though. Needing more room for old knees, I also installed the Illium highway pegs on the engine guard bars. They are very comfortable also. Switching between the two is the only way to get some positional relief. Just the way the bike sits, thats all. I've accepted the uncomfortable seating position for some jocking around in the seat/feet situation. An equitible trade off for the performance of the bike. All in all, it works now.
 
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