You don't ever want to see how much metal we find in helicopter and airplane engines as a matter of routine. May make you never want to fly again.....

There's a reason the put magnetic "Chip Detectors" on most turbine aircraft engines.

Really no reason to worry until the "chips" are big enough to read part numbers on them.

Maybe a million dollar idea for a farkle item on the K1600 series. Magnetic oil dip sticks.

Or not if there's a lot of non-magnetic materials in the engine.

 

Hi chopperguy,
I was thinking the same about the dip stick:gm

I saw a tv program following the UK RAF on a war ship. There was a chopper flying along side the ship and the metal detector activated. It was treated as an emergency and the chopper had to land urgent. They followed up later saying some cog (i think) was about to fail and would have caused it to crash. I was impressed

 

I dabble in a bit of flying myself, though not helicopters. I once had something similar when I was in the middle of nowhere a warning came up for the fuel filter bypass had activated meaning the fuel had been contaminated and the filter had clogged up with crap.I looked the warning up in the reference manual which reassuringly stated "expect engine failure",which was nice.

 

If you are seeing metal particles on the dip stick, I'd be changing the oil now!!! Even another 300 miles can make an irreparable difference.

We'd bed in overhauled piston engines with 50 hours of mineral oil on my F/W aircraft, and open up the used oil filter to check for severity of metal particles. If too many, we'd run a further 50 hours on mineral oil or have a short one-sided chat with the engine supplier....

The RN (not RAF ), we would treat chip warnings as a priority since there was only two choices if the gearbox went bung. The deck, or feet wet! I had a MGB drop all its oil as I came over the deck on HMS Ark Royal, nothing left by the time I landed

A magnetic sump plug would be better than a magnetic dip stick, the particles would then be out of the oil flow.

 

A magnetic sump plug would be better than a magnetic dip stick, the particles would then be out of the oil flow.

Second million dallar idea!:gm

Magnetic oil drain plug with illuminated warning indicator.

Now how to run and power it in a canbus environment???

 

If the dipstick is metal it can easily be magnetized just like you can do with screwdrivers.

 

magnetic drain plug should be standard. will that tell you if you have crank or cam bearing wear, no. it will pickup other metal, like gears wearing in, cam lobes wearing in. I am not sure but would have to guess the trans is all on roller bearings.

so seeing metal on the dipstick, could be non ferous as well. If your concerned, do the oil change yourself and have a sample tested by an independent lab.
also, cut open the filter. filters have bypass springs as well, so you get oil even if they clog.

I cant wait to put a hastings or wix filter on it!

maybee a chrome one, the bike needs more chrome. does anyone know of a chrome shop that plates plastic? I could do the tank panels like the old bsa's

 

maybee a chrome one, the bike needs more chrome. does anyone know of a chrome shop that plates plastic? I could do the tank panels like the old bsa's

And here we have a thread on getting rid of the chrome.

The drain plug is indeed magnetic.

 

I plan on changing my oil as soon as I get home from picking up the bike - approx. 140km then continue with the rest of the "break in" prior to the dealer first service.
:gmYou might want to have a look at this link.
MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS

 

GT1 had his GT oil changed twice now, and there was a magnetic drain plug. Zero metal residue.

 

First Oil Change



RL...just got my Red GT..I've got ~ 100 miles on the clock and am thinking about changing the oil...since there are no instructions in the manual on oil change and you have already changed your's...question..is there only the 1 drain plug? Is it the large nut in the center of the oil pan? It looks pretty straight forward and that you wound not have to remove anything (panel wise)...drain oil, pull off filter & replace...refill...4.8 qts. Did you have any problems or have any advice?

Thanks, Eric

 

What type of oil comes from factory SYN or petro.

 

K bikes have synthetic & R bikes mineral. This is per a BMW mechanic.

 

I do not have my bike yet. I was told that there are two drain plugs. One on the outside and then another small Allen head that you take out after removing the first one. It sounds like there are two sumps.

 

On all my new bikes, I always give them their first oil change after the first 200 or so miles and just after a good hard run thru the gears.

Already have the first oil change and the 600 miler scheduled.