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Has anyone purchased a table lift for use in their shops? If so what brand and price range? I am looking at air-hydraulic lift table 1000 lbs, with side extensions for just under 1 grand. My knees dont do well on concrete any more. I got plenty of room in my shop for one and with the extensions I can also use it for maint on my zero turn mower. Win Win for me! But was curious if others have purchased one. Habor Freight has a hydraulic 1000 lb lift table for 299.00, but no extensions and no air. All the write ups I have read about lift tables for motorcycles is the person writing says "why didnt I do this sooner"!

Like to do my own maintenance on the motorcycle, or at least I did on the RT, now with the Beast (K1600GTL) Its gonna be a little bit of a learning curve.:gm

Bill
2014 K1600GTL
2005 R1200RT (on a tender and for sale)
 

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I have an Atlas Hi-Rise. It's had no issues with everything from dirt bikes to thousand-pound Harleys. I replaced the wheel clamp with a Condor Chock, and added some eyebolts for tie-downs.

Love the thing, though it's more expensive now than it was when I bought it.
 

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30 year old Handy lift, still as good as new.

 
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I recently bought this one second hand from another K1600 rider over here (but not with that bike on it). It can lift up to 1000 lb.
Motorcycle table lift h-300.jpg
 

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MY friend Keemosabe Bill uses the one from harbor freight for his gold wing and just
about anything else you can think of.
I have the Ranger RML 750HD in the floor of my shop with a Condor aluminum
dock on it. Best money ever spent. (building a shop around it). Air/Hydraulic. Had mine since 2007 never any issues.
Hold the bikes, quads, even put trailers on it to wire and weld and R&R bearings.

The answer is always No unless you ask.
 

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I have a ProKar lift that is strangely similar to the one in Dean's picture. Works great and lifts the 1600 with ease. I even took it to a buddy's house for a long term project with his RT and it lifted fine, but a little slow, with a small, portable tankless air compressor.

I added eye bolts at the front for added security when removing the rear section on the RT for clutch work. The front wheel clamp does work, but I'm not sure the wheel chock might not be the better way to go.

I looked seriously at the HF unit, but for the extra money, the ProKar, or Handy lift is the way to go. Smooth, reliable, safe and well made. Also, I'm pretty sure the $299 HF lift is foot pump hydraulic only. Their air/hydraulic unit is quite a bit more, IIRC.
 

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I've always used a motorcycle jack, although I've yet to use it for the K1600. Does anyone use a jack on their K1600?
 

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I added eye bolts at the front for added security when removing the rear section on the RT for clutch work. The front wheel clamp does work, but I'm not sure the wheel chock might not be the better way to go.
The chock makes it much easier to load and unload the bike by yourself. The only issue is height....If you're short of inseam it can be a bit unnerving getting the front tire over the pivot of the chock. The Wheeldock doesn't look like it has that issue, but I've never used one.
 

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I've had a Handy Lift for about 15 years, no issues. If it broke today it I wouldn't have to replace it, it would be simple to repair it. I've been wrenching on bikes pretty seriously for about 20 years and I've never heard a negative word about Handy.
 
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Handy Lifts are the gold standard, and USA-made, there are a number of Chinese knock-offs out there for less. Skip the Harbor Freight one, its OK for a dirt bike and small sport bikes, but a 750 lb bike isn't the most stable on one. I had a Handy for a couple of years when i was doing a restoration project on the Guzzi you see on my avatar - but eventually it seemed it was always in the way and hard to move, so I sold it. Unless you work on bikes a lot - you can do most of what you need to do on a little creeper seat that will roll around the floor. Can't say I miss mine, enjoy the free space better. However if I was doing another restoration that requires a full tear-down, I would own one again.
 

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I use this one:

Motorcycle, Vehicle, and Automobile Lifts: Home

Lifts my K16GT and R12GS-LC with no issues. The side pieces are great for placing tools and parts and gives you some extra room when you roll the bike up on the lift. (I keep my GS-LC "parked" on the lift with the K16 sitting on the garage floor next to the lift.

The kit comes complete with the wheel chock, side pieces, rear wheel "roller" insert piece where the drop out panel is, and a 2-wheel dolly to pull the table around if you need to. Only used the dolly to get the table into the position it is in and has been for 3 years.

Would buy another one in a heartbeat!

:clap:
 

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I've had the Harbor Freight lift for several years. I replaced the front wheel screw mechanism with a Condor wheel chock for ease of use by myself. I've been using the lift for Harley Road Glides, Electra Glides and Ultras with absolutely no problems. I've got tie down eyes, but have only used them maybe twice in all these years. The bike is stable without them.

I haven't had a need to put the K16GTL on the lift yet, but see no reason for any problems.

Steve
 

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2nd the K&L 625 hoist

I also have the K&L and this thing is a tank. One cool part is the wheels do not roll on the floor, they roll inside of the frame. Great if you have a finished floor. Very well made. One word of caution, don't trust the wheel chock to hold your bike up. Always use tie downs no matter what. Don't ask me why I know this. After this photo which I had dissasembled the chock to right the bike, I Rhino Lined the inside of the wheel chock.






Just did an oil change on my K16, wouldnt ever work on bikes without a lift anymore!

I have 3 of the K&L MC625Rs.
 

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Handy "SAM2" here with condor chalk. Some of the best money I've ever spent. Made my own side tables for it for $100 and some fab time but very rarely use them
 

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I also have the K&L and this thing is a tank. One cool part is the wheels do not roll on the floor, they roll inside of the frame. Great if you have a finished floor. Very well made. One word of caution, don't trust the wheel chock to hold your bike up. Always use tie downs no matter what. Don't ask me why I know this. After this photo which I had dissasembled the chock to right the bike, I Rhino Lined the inside of the wheel chock.

Ouch!
On a positive note, the bottom side of your bike looks really clean! Did you do that before or after the tip over? :hide:
 
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