Welcome to the world of the K1600 and this forum. Now to the replacing the front wheel bearing tutorial. These steps came from the K1600 shop manual that can be purchased on DVD somewhere (my brother gave me mine)
It shouldn't take over a week to get these special tools needed to change out the bearings.
Allow yourself a couple hours for doing this job the first time. Left and Right is as if you are sitting on the seat.
Purchase a set (2each) of 25mm ID X 47mm OD X 12mm width bearings and seals from your local automotive store or here 25-1273 | All Balls Racing.
Place them in a deep freeze to shrink them for easy installation (at least an hour or two)
Front wheel removal:
1) Prop the front wheel up in the air by using a front end lift or a floor jack under the oil pan (bike on center stand). Don't let the rear tire touch the ground or you may actually lift the bike and center stand off the floor and tip the bike over :surprise:
2) Remove the front fender.
3) Remove the 2 bolts holding each caliper in place and wiggle them side to side to push the pistons back and then pull them off the rotors, let them hang. Now is a good time to inspect the wear on those front brake pads.
4) Loosen the pinch bolt on the right fork (it's underneath) Do not loosen the left pinch bolt.
5) Unscrew the axle using a large 22 mm hex wrench or the back end of a spark plug socket (the kind with a hex on one end) or you can purchase this tool. https://www.amazon.com/ATLIN-Motorcycle-Front-Wheel-Spindle/dp/B06VWMYNGP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501129903&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=motorcycle+axle+tool&psc=1
After removing the axle remove the wheel from the bike.
1)Remove the seals with a small screw driver, damage may occur which is OK as they will be thrown away.
2)Now slip the bearing removal tool into one of the bearings and with a wedge shaped tool such as a cold chisel (best tool) or a large screw driver shove it down through the center of the hub from the other end and place it in the slot of the removal tool. Heat the aluminum hub with a heat gun, hair dryer, or bottled propane torch (carefully). Lay the wheel on its side with the removal tool touching the floor or your work bench and drive the wedge tool hard into the slot. This will expand the tool into the ID of the bearing. Now prop up the wheel with some 2X4s and drive the removal tool and bearing out by hitting the wedge tool. Be careful working around the brake rotors, you don't want to bend them.
3)Remove the center spacer tube.
4)With an appropriate punch or the same removal tool take out the other bearing.
1) Heat the hub again. 2) Now very important Install the frozen LEFT bearing first (If you forgot to freeze them do it now and go inside and get on this forum for a couple hours), that's the side with the Anti-lock brake system disc. It may just drop in. If not tap it in using a large socket or appropriate size item that ONLY touches the outer race. DO NOT tap on the inner race as this will damage the races when the ball bearings bang around. There is a special bearing tool that pulls them into place but if you're careful you can tap them in. Make sure this left bearing seats to the bottom of the counter bore.
3) Insert the spacer tube.
4) Insert the frozen RIGHT bearing just so that the inner race gently touches the spacer tube. Tapping the outer race down too much after the inner race touches the spacer tube will put a side load on the ball bearings causing premature wear. This right bearing will not bottom out in the counter bore it will stop against that spacer tube first. This is OK.
Install the new seals by carefully pushing them into place with out damaging them using that large socket. Very little force is needed to seat them.
Replace the wheel in the forks.
Smear a little grease on the out side of the axle. This will help the seals do their job.
Torque the axle bolt to 50 NM (not pounds/foot)
Torque the pinch bolt to 19 NM
Torque the caliper bolts to 28 NM
You say you don't have a torque wrench, well now is a good time to get one. There are many kinds and folks here will chime in on their favorites I'm sure. I use a Craftsman clicker type. Make sure it goes down to 19 NM and up to 60 NM (Rear wheel bolts are torqued to this specification)
Pump your front brake lever to get the pistons back into position.
Your done and saved yourself enough $$$, over taking it to the dealer, to more than pay for all the tools you just bought.
Arizona Jim. THANK YOU. Just ordered the tool and bearing per your recommendations. Looks easy enough and maybe it’s in my mind but on a lean it feels like the front wheel has more friction or is less smooth? Maybe bearings or maybe in my head? Either way, cheap insurance and gives me a project while at home. 👍😬
Just to report back. It took me about 90 minutes bc (1) couldn’t find my torch and (2) didn’t have a wide enough screwdriver/chisel to spread the bearing tool. Once I ran to Wally World to buy these (during the 90 minutes) things went much easier. Instructions are spot on with the bearing tool and bearing part #s. My bearings seemed ok but I saw my brakes were about dust at 24k miles so bought a set of those too. Oh well - now I’m ready for another 24k Mikes.
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