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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I am a pensioner newbie and my ride is a 2013 K1600GTL. I need some technical advise. Firstly I made the silly mistake of connecting my non BMW battery charger to the right side auxiliary socket and when nothing happened I turned the ignition on and off repeatedly. Subsequently I have a warning for front and rear lights on the dash, all lights hooter and indicators non functional, what does happen if the ignition is turned on the lights hooter and indicators will work for a split second then they all become non funtional and the warning appears I also checked voltage at auxiliary socket and only get 1,7 volts. I have motorscan and checked for fault codes what I receive is the following faults Charging socket 800EA0 and GM Overvoltage 800FFE these codes are erased but reappear when ingnition is cycled so my question is does this mean that the Basic module needs to be replaced or is there a reset of some type and if the Basic module is replaced does it require programming. I did ask Wladimir from motorscan what the codes meant and his response was that if there is a problem first solve it and the codes will clear. So i am asking for some guidance in solving the problem.
 

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Before I did anything else, I would recommend disconnecting the battery for a bit (10 minutes or so), reconnect and retest. There are clamping circuits I am sure: this may be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the help actually had the battery out for 2 weeks and made no difference, all the symptoms remained the same.
 

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fault codes what I receive is the following faults Charging socket 800EA0 and GM Overvoltage 800FFE these codes are erased but reappear when ingnition is cycled
Wladimir is correct. Clearing the codes does not repair the root cause.

According to BMW Fault Code Lookup - BMWFaultCodes, 800EA0 means:
Fault Code Description
The basic module control unit has detected a short to ground in the cable loom of the 12 V connection.

Look like you may have caused some damage to the power jack. Reach up under the jack and disconnect it and see if the fault clears and stays cleared.
 

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Disconnected power jack, cleared fault codes cycled ignition and read fault codes again same fault codes still present. Cleared fault codes again reconnect power jack plug and same fault codes still present.
 

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when you were playing with the charger did you notice any smells, seems to me the plastic has to come off to view the wiring. The sockets do have regulation built in, the BMW charger does fool them into being open to provide a charge. Does the battery report a better voltage. The pesimist in me says the regulator has been damaged, that said i'm not sure if that is a component necessary required to keep the bike running if it can be disconnected from the loom, hopefully the short can be cleared, but you have lost that socket for the meantime. For future attach a flying charging lead directly to the battery and let it hang out from outside the seat
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Today I removed all plastics and modules to look and smell, everything looks and smells good. Reading on battery 12,47 volts charging voltage 13,97 volts. The biggest problem is that there are no lights front, rear and spotlights, no hooter and no indicators but momentarily all work when ignition is switched on then stop and warning light front and rear appears on the dash this somehow coincides with the error messages. No light errors or blown globes show up on motoscan.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another thing I haven't mentioned is no brake light either but if I pull lever or push pedal brake light also only works momentarily when ignition is turned on then goes out like all the other lights.
 

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can fuses are electronic, so turning off the bike resets them, until use, then they report an overload and shut off
 

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Is there a component used by all lights. I tried unplugging headlights and tail light and switching on each time. I received an additional warning each time which was cleared after plugging back but the warning for front and rear in one did not change and all other symptoms remained the same my thinking was that if a light was causing a can fuse to fuse I would isolate it. Any further help would be appreciated.
 

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Today I removed all plastics and modules to look and smell, everything looks and smells good. Reading on battery 12,47 volts charging voltage 13,97 volts. The biggest problem is that there are no lights front, rear and spotlights, no hooter and no indicators but momentarily all work when ignition is switched on then stop and warning light front and rear appears on the dash this somehow coincides with the error messages. No light errors or blown globes show up on motoscan.
It sounds like the bike is trying to save the electronics by going into some safety mode. Most of the things you mention (horns, etc) are probably sitting on the other side of an electronic relay controlled by the canbus. (thats a SWAG). If so, then the bike while doing diagnostics 'see's' something it doesn't like and disconnects all of that functionality. The fact that they do work momentarily tells you that its nothing to do with all of the rest of the wiring at minimum. Are all of the physical fuses okay?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Checked all 7 fuses and all good. I don't have knowledge of the system but it seems as if the basic module is in some sort of safety mode hence my earlier question is there a reset of some sort for the basic module or is it damaged.
 

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If the relays are testing good, make sure that they are staying latched appropriately. It seems like the bike temporarily flashes everything (all circuits live) which to me says the relays are latching for a second. If you could trace back where that external jack goes (moving a probe along with continuity) it feels like you will end up at the source of the problem. I wish we had a more complete wiring diagram to work from and an ignition flow chart, right now its just guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I tested the aux socket under the seat today and symptoms are identical to front one, this socket has never been used. From what I have read all these components are wired into the basic module.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
After thought on the relays, right hand side is starter I don't know how the left hand side is named or identified but when not functional all electronics on the bike are non functional.
 

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I would physically swap the green relays over. The mini fuses might test good, but what is the supply like to the fuse holder. with all of them out, how does the bike react. take a photo before you remove them. can power be sourced from the connector. do any of the outputs read short to earth without the switches being operated
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Swapped relays no change. Removed fuses No's 4,5,6 7 and 8 tested voltage ignition off and on results.
Fuse No 4 - 4amp L/H Handlebar fitting, Top csae lighting and RDC Off 0 volts On 11,3 volts
Fuse No 5 - 7,5amp Audio Off 0 volts On 11,5 volts
Fuse No 6 - 4amp Beam throw adjustment Off 0 volts On 11,2 volts
Fuse No 7 - 4amp Main relay Instrument panel and ignition switch Off 10,7 volts On 12,2 volts
Fuse No 8 - 7,5amp Anti theft alarm Off 11,6 volts On 10,8 volts
The more I check the system the more I am convinced it is safety override or shut down (system protection) that is occurring in the basic module due to the overvoltage that was supplied through the aux socket. I will have to go to BMW for a diagnostic check but this must wait until I can afford it.
 
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