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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I mounted a set of P3 lights on my top case, and using the IQ-160TS controller I have tail lights, brake lights which can be configured to different flashing modes, plus turn signals. They work GREAT. My riding partner says that you just can't miss seeing them.

The controller was tied into the taillight harness on the bike on the right side and after the wiring harness plug. The pic of the harness tie in point is from the forum; sorry I don't remember who posted it, but Thanks.

The wiring colors again are from the forum and thanks again whoever poster them.

From the harness I wired a pig tail and the to a four connector plug so I can disconnected easily if I want to pull off the top case. This plug is near the top case wiring plug.

From there the fun began, the top case has to come off and both the top and bottom shells have to come off. The lid lift shocks have to be disconnected, I disconnected the top end.

My wiring then was run through a piece of heat shrink tubing and into the drain hole on the right bottom side of the top case.

From there the wiring went through the existing wiring harness protective sleeve to the lid of the case.

The mounting of the lights was done after removal of the plastic insert for the factory top case lights. NOTE: There are two black plastic rivets that hold that piece onto the frame of the top case. With a small center punch you can push the center pin from the rivet and then reuse them, if you don't lose them.

When the lights are attached be sure to mark the left and right lights on your wires down to the controller, you will need to know this later for the controller wire-up.

I left everything apart finished the wiring hook up, tested them and then put everything back together.





 

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Wow that is a new approach if you don't have the top case light already.. Looks great and clean job!! Hey Adam, here is another idea for RocketMoto install if no light bar!!!
 

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This is probably a silly question, but here goes ... If you remove the case, are the wiring pigtails exposed to inclement weather to the extent that reconnection could cause a short, due to water accumulation in/on the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is probably a silly question, but here goes ... If you remove the case, are the wiring pigtails exposed to inclement weather to the extent that reconnection could cause a short, due to water accumulation in/on the plugs?

No, the factory disconnect is under the seat as is mine.
 

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I mounted a set of P3 lights on my top case, and using the IQ-160TS controller I have tail lights, brake lights which can be configured to different flashing modes, plus turn signals. They work GREAT. My riding partner says that you just can't miss seeing them.

The controller was tied into the taillight harness on the bike on the right side and after the wiring harness plug. The pic of the harness tie in point is from the forum; sorry I don't remember who posted it, but Thanks.

The wiring colors again are from the forum and thanks again whoever poster them.

From the harness I wired a pig tail and the to a four connector plug so I can disconnected easily if I want to pull off the top case. This plug is near the top case wiring plug.

From there the fun began, the top case has to come off and both the top and bottom shells have to come off. The lid lift shocks have to be disconnected, I disconnected the top end.

My wiring then was run through a piece of heat shrink tubing and into the drain hole on the right bottom side of the top case.

From there the wiring went through the existing wiring harness protective sleeve to the lid of the case.

The mounting of the lights was done after removal of the plastic insert for the factory top case lights. NOTE: There are two black plastic rivets that hold that piece onto the frame of the top case. With a small center punch you can push the center pin from the rivet and then reuse them, if you don't lose them.

When the lights are attached be sure to mark the left and right lights on your wires down to the controller, you will need to know this later for the controller wire-up.

I left everything apart finished the wiring hook up, tested them and then put everything back together.





Looks great but I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to do this. Could a dealer pull this off at a reasonable price and what might they be ?


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks great but I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to do this. Could a dealer pull this off at a reasonable price and what might they be ?


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Well!!!! They might do it but I think you are looking at about 3 hours of service time unless they have done the same install before.
It took me about 6 hours to do this install. with that being said the first time is always the most difficult. I think I would now allot myself 2 hours if I did it again. The most difficult was getting the shells off the top case. I did spend a lot of time trying to fish my wiring through their wiring harness. I found that it was just not going to work, so I ran my own harness which only took about 5 minutes. You know sometimes it is just hard to give up on your ideas. Live and learn.
The job is not for the faint at heart but it wasn't that bad??????
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I am sure that the dealer could do this but I would allow about 2 to 3 hours of labor for them. It took me about 6 hours to do the install. I did spend a lot of time attempting to get my wiring through their wiring harness. Once I decided I was defeated I ran my own harness from the top-case to under the seat. This only took a few minutes. The other big time consumer was taking the shells of the top case apart. Never done this before so it took alot of time, now it would fairly quickly. This is not for the faint at heart but it was fun and educational. Good Luck.
 

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Finally got my P3 lights installed on the top box.
It took me over 12 hours over 2 days.
Got the package, it's a good product all you need to install it.
Jerry from Skene Design is very helpfull and responsive.
Installing it was so time consuming because I tried to use existing harness to install P3 lights with turn signals.
My recommendation: run minimum 3 ( i run 4 ) wires directly to P3 lights on the top case from controller.
I tried to use wire in the harness but it screws everything up.
I took time to figure out wire designation at top case connector.

Brown Ground (-)

Grey, black stripe yellow dots. Brake light harness ( 6V/12V)

( I never had a chance to see BMW original top case light working but above referenced wire runs 6V but when I press brake it showed 12V, so it looks like tail/brake light combination )

White, green stripe. That wire goes to the plug I found behind padding of the
back rest and it runs 7.5V. I don't have a clue what that's for

Red. 12V (+) with 60 second delay after ignition is switched off.

Purple, blue stripe. Activated by central locking

Brown, purple stripe. Activated by central locking

The harness in more complicated than I was anticipating, wires and colors change deeper you go.
There is also a trunk light that's being activated by opening the case with 60 second delay.
All above wires and lights are running on common ground so messing with the the harness can alter how everything works.
I took apart top lid only and fished my new wires along the original harness.
P3 lights are connected using computer block connector used for powering hard drives, etc.. for easy disconnect for quick top case removal.
I'm waiting for Admorelighting light bar I ordered to complete my bikes rear light upgrade.
Than I'll post some pictures.
After that it's easy connecting controller to tails lights harness on the right side as described before.
Is you don't need turn signals on top box installation by plate number would be a breeze.



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http://youtu.be/NqeoXZS3DYM

Above there is a link to YouTube Video of completed install of P3 TS Skene top box lights and AdMoreLighting 8" smoked light bar.
I had to be creative on the connections since it is easy to overload canbus.
I connected P3 controler to tail light harness under body panel on the right ( discribtion of P3 lights couple posts before this one ) but after connecting light bar at the same location it was overloading canbus.
So I connected light bars ground to brown, tail light wire to red wire and brake wire to brake wire before top box connector under the seat.
I wanted to be able to quickly disconnect and remove top box along with the lights and still have extra visibility by having a light bar just below plate.

PS
Posi-taps are the best and easiest way to make automotive connections.


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Shock clip removal on top case

I am attempting the install of the P3 lights in the top case and need a tip on how to get the clip off the shock on the top.
Also the next step is removing the bottom cover of the case to complete the routing of the wires. Do I need to remove the hinge to get the bottom case off?
 

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I really like this but want to modify it a bit for my GTL.

My idea is to have two (2) red LED's as brake lights in the center of the top case light slot and two (2) amber LED's outside of those, still in the slot, as turn signals/emergency flashers.

Is there enough room in the recess for 4 LED's?

I also will be adding red LED's on either side of the license plate and want to add ambers outside of those for additional turn/emergency flashers.

According to Jerry Skene, adding ambers for turn/emergency flashers do NOT require a controller.
 

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....
I also will be adding red LED's on either side of the license plate and want to add ambers outside of those for additional turn/emergency flashers.

According to Jerry Skene, adding ambers for turn/emergency flashers do NOT require a controller.
Extra amber turn signal lights (such as our yellow Photon Boosters) can be connected in parallel with the bike's turn signal lights, and so do not need a controller.

What is not known is whether adding one or two additional lamps will trip the K1600's very sensitive current sensors and cause a lamp fault. While our LEDs take only 0.15 amps, this bike's CANBUS computer monitors all electrical loads and complains when anything is even a little out of spec. The current limits they have designed into each electrical circuit appear to be only slightly higher than the current draw on that circuit, unlike the old days when a 5 amp fuse was used for a 2 amp bulb. The bike's wiring is certainly able to handle the extra load.

I'm sorry that I don't have a K1600GT to test this on. If someone tries this out, please let me know how it works out.
 
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