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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm purchasing an Adaptiv TPX radar detector and am open for input regarding where I'd like to mount it, and what mount to utilize. I do not want it on the bars, but I don't want a dash plate either. would prefer something on the edge of the dash. Ive seen some on RT’s that are mounted on the right hand side of the dash, but RT’s seem to have a little more real estate for that and the 1600 is trimmer around the dash. I’m looking to pull power from the RH upper fairing outlet. Any ideas on how to go about this? Going in front of the oil cooler would be an option as well.
 

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This is my set-up. And I would do it all over again exactly the same way. There is nothing about this I would change. The small black button near the wonder-wheel will silence an alert that I’m not interested in. And the LED light just below the speedometer confirms for me that the detector is on, and it will also flash during alerts. I have it powered from the low beam headlight wire, so the detector is always on when the bike is running. The box is vented with waterproof vents. Never had an issue with heat, or water. Although I now take the detector out when I wash the bike, as the box does get wet from the garden hose. That’s a recent development after about 20,000 miles of use, so perhaps the vents should be treated with a water repellant. But rain is not an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How do each of you (atc and kevmat) attach the unit inside the nose? Kevmat, where do you draw power for the unit?
 

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I use a BEX Series 3 aluminium enclosure box, sized appropriately for my detector.

https://www.boxenclosures.com/product-category/bex-series-anodized-extruded-aluminum-enclosures/bex-series-3/

B3-160 for my Escort Redline

With end plates EP3

MF80 mounting flanges for each side (2)

Screws TS-008

Sealing kit SK3 (acts as a gasket)

I used JB Weld to glue the rear end plate on, so screw heads would not rub the oil cooler (wanted a completely flat backside), and then used adhesive to glue cork gasket material to the aluminum end plate as a thermal barrier and add some cushion against the oil cooler.

For the front “lens”, I used a Shade 5 polycarbonate welding lens. A clear one would work too, but then thieves would see a detector there. A shade 5 does not affect range, yet makes it opaque. I leave the detector in the box 24/7. Hotels, etc.

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/LENS-POLYCARBONATE-2X4-1-4IN-SH5/p/NONP247SH5

And these are the waterproof vents I used (after drilling appropriate holes)

Universal Kits : Frogzskin, Snowmobile Vent Protection

And then drill a hole and get a rubber grommet from a car dealer near you, and punch a small hole in the center of the grommet then silicone around the power in, and audio out wires
 

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You haven’t said which radar detector you have or are considering purchasing or the year and model of your bike. But we happen to both know an old Spur maker in Texas. This is a picture of a mount that may work for you. IMG_0516.JPG

I will send a picture of how I used it later today.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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How do each of you (atc and kevmat) attach the unit inside the nose? Kevmat, where do you draw power for the unit?
Radar and Laser jammer are mounted on the shelf below headlight with included hardware. I ran power from PDM60 installed below seat along with control wiring from radar/jammer sensors to ALP control unit also installed below seat.

Here's another link to my install:
https://www.k1600forum.com/forum/2376974-post20.html
 

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kevmat;2452670Here's another link to my install: [url said:
https://www.k1600forum.com/forum/2376974-post20.html[/url]
And another...
This one shows remote control unit mounted on speaker grille for use when I'm not running ALP Connect. Flashes red (laser) and green (radar) on alert. Remote has a small speaker that is plenty loud to be heard at speed on alarm. Pressing power button silences audible alert. The blue LED is separate from the remote and can be installed anywhere; below remote suits me.

https://www.k1600forum.com/forum/2404896-post49.html
 

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I use a BEX Series 3 aluminium enclosure box, sized appropriately for my detector.
Brother, from what I've just read, you have your detector covered five sides in metal and a polycarb plastic "nose". By placing your detector within a metal envelope you are severely limiting its performance. I get the front is not metal. This configuration will eliminate reception from all but head-on.
 

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Brother, from what I've just read, you have your detector covered five sides in metal and a polycarb plastic "nose". By placing your detector within a metal envelope you are severely limiting its performance. I get the front is not metal. This configuration will eliminate reception from all but head-on.


Maybe, but when you live in a state/providence that frowns on RD, it may be (is for us) an acceptable tradeoff.

I’d also wager your body, with a dash mounted unit is only slightly better than the aluminum box. And most detectors (yeah yeah V1 fans) are front only anyway.
 

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I am with you; I hail from NOVA. With the exception of laser, your body is invisible to the speed gun, but we are in the minutia and, as you stated, the need for secrecy outweighs the impedance created.
 

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I am with you; I hail from NOVA. With the exception of laser, your body is invisible to the speed gun, but we are in the minutia and, as you stated, the need for secrecy outweighs the impedance created.
Seems like a plastic box would be a lot better choice than metallic.
 

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Brother, from what I've just read, you have your detector covered five sides in metal and a polycarb plastic "nose". By placing your detector within a metal envelope you are severely limiting its performance. I get the front is not metal. This configuration will eliminate reception from all but head-on.
No, I am not sacrificing any performance. My Redline does not have a rear-facing antenna. And after well over 20,000 miles I can assure you the performance is outstanding, and not compromised in any way. If it was, I would throw it all away and re-evaluate. I always drive at least 20mph over the PSL.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
You haven’t said which radar detector you have or are considering purchasing or the year and model of your bike. But we happen to both know an old Spur maker in Texas. This is a picture of a mount that may work for you. View attachment 133282
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yessir! I stopped by and visited with Spur man Friday afternoon. I haven’t known him nearly as long as you, but consider him as a good friend. He also has some beautiful bikes!

Back on subject, I’ve seen the Adaptiv mounts (Spur Man also texted them to me). If I elect to mount the RD on my bars (or reservoir) this will be the way I go. Still looking at a dash-mount option.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks to some mega advice from R2K and Spur man, I’ve installed my Adaptiv TPX 2.0 RD. Spent quite a bit of time figuring where to mount the bracket, then where to mark the pilot holes for the screws. Wiring was a piece of cake, although I spent quite awhile figuring out where I wanted the wires to run and where I wanted to ‘hide’ the bundle that is the wiring harness. Only casualty was one rubber grommet that fell into the abyss inside the fairing/motor. I will replace it next time I have reason to tear the RH side apart! Another thing I learned: the RT has a lot more usable area on the dash than does the K16!
 

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