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payment sent for 2.
 

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They are finished!!!

$17 each for welding because they were put on the lathe multiple times to adjust how the welds affected being perpendicular.

The guys that did the welding were selected by Honda to repair the frame issue for the Gold Wing. Great welders. Expensive, but having it done right is worth it.

I added a spot weld to allow a deep socket to push the plug back into the hole, and the threads to be started. If you don't want it, you can file it off.

I'll send out the 1st 5 tomorrow by Priority Mail.

Call it $24 each.

I can get the next 20 welded next week. (PayPal charges something, but I don't recall how much.)



I would like one as well. Paypal sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, the 1st 5 are in the postal system. There are supposed to be picked-up by 1 PM.

I included the end of the hex key in case you want to cut a piece to drop into the deep 5mm socket.

The design was built around the 55mm depth from the bottom of the sump drain opening and the bottom of the tight crankcase drain plug.

The extension allows the Snap-On deep extension, which is 42mm long, to easily reach the plug extension.

This should prove to be the foolproof way to remove and reinstall the crankcase drain plug.

With hot oil draining down upon removing the crankcase drain plug, I certainly want a BIG safety margin.

I will be adding a thin length of industrial Velcro around the bottom of the Snap-On socket to give me traction on an oil covered socket. The hook side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
RL - THANKS

I appreciate all of the time and effort that you put into this project. Sorry for my confusing and redundent questions!:clap: :clap: :clap:
Certainly my pleasure. It seems to be a guy thing to solve problems.

If there are ANY modifications you guys think would enhance the design, please let me know.

I would have ordinarily have painted this plug, but that would be dumb inside the sump. Naked steel is best. Shouldn't rust soaked in oil.
 

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RL,
Hello I am new to the BMW bikes, of course I have wanted one for ever!! I am on the Pre-Sale plan. '12 1600GTL Silver arriving next week or week after. I have been reading (studding) the Ash/Castrol break-in method, I wonder to change the oil, can you just remove the oil filter and with the engine run/don't run switch turned to the "don't run"-
hit the starter for a few cycles to pump the remaining oil out? I am worried about losing the second small oil plug in the dry sump. I am familiar with american cars, some japanese bikes to a limited extent, and the german engineering (The Best In The World)
I am least familiar with.

I just thought I would ask you, and anyone with experience working on these great bikes.

Thank you for your time. Stan803
 
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