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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Current prices July 2022:

$35 each. (Current Price) Delivered in the US. Actual cost for postage increase for everywhere else. The pay pal address is RL at Lemke dot com

A little more for the rest of the world, but I must check postage cost with each order.

Add in a 3" 1/4" drive socket extension for $9.00 more.

International delivery is easy as I do it all the time.

Send a PM to me with your mailing address and I'll let the USPS software determine the postage cost.

For fast delivery, 3 to 5 business days, it gets a lot more expensive, but I can send that way too.


Above, painted crankcase oil pan, upside down.


Above is sump with plug removed.




Above is painted crankcase oil pan with Super Plug installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, the 1st 5 are in the postal system. There are supposed to be picked-up by 1 PM.

I included the end of the hex key in case you want to cut a piece to drop into the deep 5mm socket.

The design was built around the 55mm depth from the bottom of the sump drain opening and the bottom of the tight crankcase drain plug.

The extension allows the Snap-On deep extension, which is 42mm long, to easily reach the plug extension.

This should prove to be the foolproof way to remove and reinstall the crankcase drain plug.

With hot oil draining down upon removing the crankcase drain plug, I certainly want a BIG safety margin.

I will be adding a thin length of industrial Velcro around the bottom of the Snap-On socket to give me traction on an oil covered socket. The hook side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
RL - THANKS

I appreciate all of the time and effort that you put into this project. Sorry for my confusing and redundent questions!:clap: :clap: :clap:
Certainly my pleasure. It seems to be a guy thing to solve problems.

If there are ANY modifications you guys think would enhance the design, please let me know.

I would have ordinarily have painted this plug, but that would be dumb inside the sump. Naked steel is best. Shouldn't rust soaked in oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
RL,
Hello I am new to the BMW bikes, of course I have wanted one for ever!! I am on the Pre-Sale plan. '12 1600GTL Silver arriving next week or week after. I have been reading (studding) the Ash/Castrol break-in method, I wonder to change the oil, can you just remove the oil filter and with the engine run/don't run switch turned to the "don't run"-
hit the starter for a few cycles to pump the remaining oil out? I am worried about losing the second small oil plug in the dry sump. I am familiar with american cars, some japanese bikes to a limited extent, and the german engineering (The Best In The World)
I am least familiar with.

I just thought I would ask you, and anyone with experience working on these great bikes.

Thank you for your time. Stan803
I would follow the manual changing the oil. Drain the hot oil from the sump, then crankcase. Pumping the oil from the engine has too many pitfalls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
1st....Great Job!
2nd...How long is your new & improved sump plug from end of extention to last thread on the plug. In other words, Total length of new sump plug.

Thanks.:clap:
Believe it or not, I didn't measure it. The extension ended up being cut to 40mm, and slid about 5mm into the plug. Say, 45mm total length?

I measured 55mm from the bottom of the sump drain opening to the bottom of the seated crankcase plug. That would be 35mm of the extension below the bottom of the seated plug. That's should leave 20mm between the bottom of the extension and the bottom of the sump drain.

Hope it all fits.

Below is the magnetic drain plug for the sump drain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
OK, here's the deal. The 1st 5 sent out really were rushed to production. I want to get a bit of feedback before I make the rest of them.

If there is interference between the bottom of the extension and the top of the magnet on the sump drain, it will only be a mm or two.

I may drain the new Amsoil from my bike to confirm the measurements myself.

Let me talk to GT1 to see if he can get his oil changed tomorrow before I decide on the next production. I'll prepare to drain mine tonight.

One of the key issues is the choice of deep 5mm sockets. The Snap-On has a 42mm reach. That gives a lot of flexibility. I made the extension as long as possible to accommodate shorter socket extensions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
RL, since my new bike is not in yet, (I'm told "any day") it might be a few days before I can try the new plug out. Looks to me like the only possible mod would be to possible cut the bottom of the hex going into the plug a few mm. Easy enough to do in the field. I do plan to take the modified plug with me to my local dealer for the first fluid change. It will be interesting to get their reaction. They are pretty open minded.
A bit of grinding or filing at most. This one started with a 40mm hex key, inserted 5.5mm into the new plug. (I just measured the new ones.) That left 34.5mm.

I will have them make one today with a 35mm hex key. I know the extra long Snap-On socket will reach it. I worry about any other socket though.

If the new Snap-On socket arrives today, I'll drain my oil. If tomorrow, I'll do it tomorrow.

Here is the program for today's welding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
This photo does not show the magnet. Is the magnet transferable from the old plug or is it just not installed yet?
The magnet is only in the sump plug. The crankcase plug, the one I modify, doesn't have a magnet.

The balancing act here is making the extension long enough for a variety of deep sockets to reach it, and grab well, yet short enough to avoid the sump plug magnet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'm going to remake the 1st 5 and send them out. The shaft length needs to be 20mm.

All the modified crankcase plugs will now be made and sent out.

I'm getting some nuts to protect the threads during the welding process.
 
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