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The ECU is behind the right side fairing. You loosen the coolant bottle and move it aside. Then you can see the ECU. The Bren website shows a quick video of how to remove it.
Ahh... Thank you. In 7 years I've never had the need to dig that deep into that area. I likely saw it while pulling the fuel tank to plumb in the aux fuel line but was more concerned with not breaking anything than figuring out what all that stuff was... :grin:
 

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Bren video of how to remove the ECU.
So THAT'S how to remove that panel... My 2012 experience didn't help at all with that. Gonna have to try that agian this weekend. Might be able to route my aux light wires more bettah... :grin:
 

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When you work the ECU out from the captured area, the clips don't just pull out. There is a sliding clip (mechanism), that when slide outward, releases the harness from the ECU. Mine required more effort, then I would have thought, would be needed. I used compressed air on both the pins at the ECU, and the harness. There are 2 harnesses attached, side by side on the ECU. When you put them on, 1 at a time, just put them on straight, and they will only seat, a bit more then 1/2 way. When you slide the clip (locking mechanism) into place, you will notice the harness, is pulled into place fully. Repeat with the 2nd one. Let us know if by chance, you negative cable is loose at all. Hope this helps...
 

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Well the Nintendo fix if it is a fix is similar to the match book in the 8 track player fix or should I say rig I’ve been around for a while and done both but have not messed with ECU though
 

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Anyone with Nintendo or had kids play nintendo, the game cartridges were notorious for not working, but blowing on the connector at the bottom of the game cartridge would 'fix' the issue until next time you had to blow on it.
 

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Well, after about one week of trying to make it work (replaced SA actuator, checked the interlocks like clutch sensors etc.) BMW found out that they cannot teach the BCM (a module that controls a large number of function of the bike outside the scope of the ECM) which in turn does not allow the SA to function properly. Mothership is involved, but no answer yet. Took the bike with the reassurance that it will be perfectly OK to take it on my vacation trip. Off I go now with the bad feeling in my head, that something in the hidden parts of electronics is screwed up and will bite my in the ass at the most inconvenient time.
BMW has a problem with quality control for sure.
Same issue as mine and others, I bet you have some permanent codes related to shift assist voltage out of range...

Dealer put a whole new shift assist module on mine and it didn't work and they can't program it also.....either in the connector, harness or at the ECU connector.....
 

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Watching this thread with interest. When I test drove the GTL a week ago, I used the shift assist several times during the ride. Thought it worked better up than down...then decided to stop using it and use the clutch as I figured I might go home and mistakenly use shift assist on my other bikes, which are not equipped with any such mechanism ;p

Years ago, I failed to talk my late Wife out of getting a 4 year old fully loaded BMW X5. I was really not impressed with the BMW reliability ratings, but in the end, she ended up with a 2006 4.8is X5. I bought the longest running extended service plan that CarMax offered, which I think cost me about $2800. During the five years that we had that vehicle, that $2800 plan provided me about $22,500 worth of services/parts. While I generally was not allowed to drive the vehicle because I "braked too hard" or "grabbed the steering wheel too tightly" or just plain didn't do something correctly (smile), I was impressed with the handling and performance of the thing. I also found the myriad of fancy systems and luxury items on it quite interesting, although I did kind of eye them as additional things that could break. I kind of look at the shift assist in this same light...a nice fancy add-on that might be enjoyed if it works as expected...but perhaps un-necessary at the basic level and a potential headache if it fails to perform to standard.

That warranty plan ran its course shortly after my Wife passed away and I sold it not long after that. It took a bit of overcoming the BMW reliability record to be able to order the GTL last week. I've been telling myself for months the motorcycle relibability is not as bad as the car/SUV reliability, but it was the performance during the test drive that finally put me over the top. I've been enjoying the wealth of info on this forum (which also helped put me over the top) and have been gaining a better understanding of things, be they blue tooth pairing, overheating situations, or this shift assist stuff.
 

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When you work the ECU out from the captured area, the clips don't just pull out. There is a sliding clip (mechanism), that when slide outward, releases the harness from the ECU. Mine required more effort, then I would have thought, would be needed. I used compressed air on both the pins at the ECU, and the harness. There are 2 harnesses attached, side by side on the ECU. When you put them on, 1 at a time, just put them on straight, and they will only seat, a bit more then 1/2 way. When you slide the clip (locking mechanism) into place, you will notice the harness, is pulled into place fully. Repeat with the 2nd one. Let us know if by chance, you negative cable is loose at all. Hope this helps...
Thanks for the heads up on those locking clips, very helpful. The first time around, those clips are tricky; largely because there isn't much slack in the wiring and it's a bit of a wrestling match. The locking clips pull out farther than I expected, but once fully out the wiring plug comes off easy. Actually they are a pretty clever design. When the sliding clip pulls out it moves the plug partially out of the socket. Pushing the locking clip back in when reassembling fully seats the plug in the socket.

I cleaned the ECU connector pins with denatured alcohol on a lint-free cloth wrapped over a flat blade screwdriver. I couldn't tell that I was getting anything off the pins, but you never know. They looked perfectly clean. I delayed my appointment with the BMW dealership to replace the shift assist switch on the gear shift rod. If cleaning the ECU connectors fixes the problem, no need to take the bike in - a bit over an hour riding into a congested freeway construction area. The problem was very random and intermittent on my GTL, so I won't say they problem is gone for good until many weeks pass.
 

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Thanks for the heads up on those locking clips, very helpful. The first time around, those clips are tricky; largely because there isn't much slack in the wiring and it's a bit of a wrestling match. The locking clips pull out farther than I expected, but once fully out the wiring plug comes off easy. Actually they are a pretty clever design. When the sliding clip pulls out it moves the plug partially out of the socket. Pushing the locking clip back in when reassembling fully seats the plug in the socket.



I cleaned the ECU connector pins with denatured alcohol on a lint-free cloth wrapped over a flat blade screwdriver. I couldn't tell that I was getting anything off the pins, but you never know. They looked perfectly clean. I delayed my appointment with the BMW dealership to replace the shift assist switch on the gear shift rod. If cleaning the ECU connectors fixes the problem, no need to take the bike in - a bit over an hour riding into a congested freeway construction area. The problem was very random and intermittent on my GTL, so I won't say they problem is gone for good until many weeks pass.
Are you getting voltage codes?

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Are you getting voltage codes?

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Yes, after a failure there are two voltage faults shown by the GS-911 scan. After the dealership upgraded the firmware, they must have cleared those fault codes because the GS-911 scan no longer showed them - until the shift assist failed again after a few days and then the same fault codes had returned. One code was something like "implausible voltage" associated with the shifter. I'm pretty sure I posted the entire GS-911 scan printout in this thread earlier.

As it stands, I haven't had another failure since cleaning the ECU pins; but it has only been one day with a couple of rides totaling maybe 60 miles or so. I didn't clear the codes after cleaning the pins, in case I decide to go ahead and have the dealership replace the hardware switch (under warranty). I plan on waiting until it fails again before taking it to the dealership, though. Even if it is contaminated ECU contacts, I had no way to clean the plugs on the wiring harness so it isn't definitive if it happens again whether or not it is being caused by contaminated contacts. I don't know what is safe to use on it and if failures still happen I'll probably turn it over to the dealership to solve.
 

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Well, I'm starting to think that cleaning the ECU contacts has resolved the shift assist failure. Haven't had a single failure since cleaning the ECU pins last Sept.
 

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Will be trying that, but have to wait for warmer temps. Is only Dec ****

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If you haven't pulled the ECU out of your K16 before, there are several posts in the forum and some video (on the Bren tuning site I think is one) with some helpful info. It was the first time I pulled mine and if I ever do it again it'll take way less than half as much time.

BTW, I mentioned to the service dept at the local BMW dealership that I had heard about cleaning the ECU pins as a possible fix. This was after I had the bike to them once for the shift assist fail issue. They had not heard of the ECU relationship. You might check with your local shop. Maybe by Springtime word will have spread. Anyway, it would be good to know if it is OK to spray some electrical contact cleaner on the ECU and wiring harness connectors. I think it would be, but I didn't want to do it without verifying it. That'd be an expensive error if it isn't OK.
 

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Shift assist stopped working at around 21000 km on my 2018 MY GTL. Experienced some hard shifting occasionally, but now it is completely out of order. Nice in way that I can go back to normal shifting. Bike will go back to the dealer a few days after the 20.000 service was done, timing sucks.
I would be asking if it had anything to do with the current recall? might save you a fortune but then being such a new bike it should be a warranty issue also.
 

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As I reported in another thread, this drivetrain was disassembled a few times in search of the root cause. AFAIK the found no issues with the shift forks. Bike was traded in with support from BMW dealer and mothership and I got a demo 2018 GT. This displayed issues with the SA as well and after cleaning ECM connectors it never occurred again. Likely that was the same problem with the previous bike, but at that time they had no idea about this hidden connector problem.


Is there a link between SA and shift forks? Could be as the forks could see higher mechanical load compared to slower manual shifting.
 

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My SA stopped working at 11,000km , not fixed yet.
My 6th gear started slipping at 21,000
They showed me the abnormal wear on the shift fork. While waiting for replacement transmission .
They also replaced starter .

SA still not working .

Because my other bike is a m109, I am not used to higher revs, so I am rarely revving the K and even when the SA worked probably less than 20 times I used SA to do a full throttle acceleration.



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If you haven't pulled the ECU out of your K16 before, there are several posts in the forum and some video (on the Bren tuning site I think is one) with some helpful info. It was the first time I pulled mine and if I ever do it again it'll take way less than half as much time.

BTW, I mentioned to the service dept at the local BMW dealership that I had heard about cleaning the ECU pins as a possible fix. This was after I had the bike to them once for the shift assist fail issue. They had not heard of the ECU relationship. You might check with your local shop. Maybe by Springtime word will have spread. Anyway, it would be good to know if it is OK to spray some electrical contact cleaner on the ECU and wiring harness connectors. I think it would be, but I didn't want to do it without verifying it. That'd be an expensive error if it isn't OK.
Its okay but you want to make sure you recoat the pins in a dielectric grease to keep moisture (and corrosion) away. You don't need much.

I have not seen the connector for the ECU but these things are typically highly engineered components (you should hear connector salesman going on about their designs, you'd think they have cured cancer). For the pins to have an issue it probably means that they sat somewhere exposed at some point. When I have needed to clean pins with more than a spray I use 0000 steel wool on a set of tweezers to clean the pokey bits and a dental wire brush to clean the holes. Spray with cleaner, scrub very lightly since those pins are coated typically (gold on something), dry with air (also remove particulate), apply some dielectric grease, good to go.
 
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