This is the first I'm hearing about a software update.
Joe
Joe
Software update causing power loss- unable to reach rev limit
For reference my bike is a 2012 K1600GT with approx. 58k miles.
I received a message from my local BMW dealership mid-February that I should come in to receive a software update that was being pushed down by the mothership. Brought the bike in for service March 4, and had all six ignition coils replaced along with spark plugs, valve clearance check etc. (18k mi service).
When all work was complete I went to ride the bike home and immediately notice something was wrong. Power above 6k was noticeably down and even with the throttle held wide open RPM's would not go above 7k. It felt like I was hitting a soft limiter. At the same time, the induction sound had changed- noticeably more throaty, less smooth.
I brought the bike back to the dealer where their techs were able to replicate the issue so back in it went.
The entire 18k mile service was redone to include rechecking the valves (still within spec). They were able to confirm that nothing is mechanically wrong, which leads me to the conclusion that something in the software update is causing this very annoying power loss. Lastly I confirmed that the software update is the same for all K1600 models regardless of year or version (K1600gt, b, gtl, ga, etc.). We also checked to see if the rev limit issue was caused by hitting a new, lower speed limit such as the one on the 1600GA which as we know is around 110 mph. That was not the case as the 7k rev limit is still hit in first gear.
At this point the master tech is telling me that my only recourse is doing an aftermarket ECU flash like the Brentune. I don't think that I should be forced to spend $800 to fix an issue brought about by a software issue caused by BMW.
Looking to see if anyone else has encountered similar issues with the latest update and soliciting advice.
I received a message from my local BMW dealership mid-February that I should come in to receive a software update that was being pushed down by the mothership. Brought the bike in for service March 4, and had all six ignition coils replaced along with spark plugs, valve clearance check etc. (18k mi service).
When all work was complete I went to ride the bike home and immediately notice something was wrong. Power above 6k was noticeably down and even with the throttle held wide open RPM's would not go above 7k. It felt like I was hitting a soft limiter. At the same time, the induction sound had changed- noticeably more throaty, less smooth.
I brought the bike back to the dealer where their techs were able to replicate the issue so back in it went.
The entire 18k mile service was redone to include rechecking the valves (still within spec). They were able to confirm that nothing is mechanically wrong, which leads me to the conclusion that something in the software update is causing this very annoying power loss. Lastly I confirmed that the software update is the same for all K1600 models regardless of year or version (K1600gt, b, gtl, ga, etc.). We also checked to see if the rev limit issue was caused by hitting a new, lower speed limit such as the one on the 1600GA which as we know is around 110 mph. That was not the case as the 7k rev limit is still hit in first gear.
At this point the master tech is telling me that my only recourse is doing an aftermarket ECU flash like the Brentune. I don't think that I should be forced to spend $800 to fix an issue brought about by a software issue caused by BMW.
Looking to see if anyone else has encountered similar issues with the latest update and soliciting advice.
1 - 20 of 95 Posts
I too haven't heard of this software update, but if I do, at least I now know to avoid it.
Could you provide more detail on this software update?
Could you provide more detail on this software update?
I don't have the full details on exactly what it is, but from what they said, it's a major firmware update. Basically they had to hook the bike up and it took about 6 hours to fully download.I too haven't heard of this software update, but if I do, at least I now know to avoid it.
Could you provide more detail on this software update?
I also asked if they could revert to the previous software version, apparently they can not. I guess only the current version is available from BMW corporate.
Bike runs fine. Shop works on bike. Bike doesn’t run fine. Duh…. Doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out who is responsible. BTW, just stating the dealer changed all 6 coils tells me he ripped you off! I’d demand the dealer fix the bike NOW! If he says no my next call would be to a lawyer.
Duane
Duane
What I find odd is that my local dealership hasn't contacted me about this important software/firmware update, when they were very prompt in sending me notice about the latest fuel pump recall, in addition to BMW USA's notification.I don't have the full details on exactly what it is, but from what they said, it's a major firmware update. Basically they had to hook the bike up and it took about 6 hours to fully download.
I also asked if they could revert to the previous software version, apparently they can not. I guess only the current version is available from BMW corporate.
Yours is also the first mention on this forum about this update, which adds to the mystery.
Regardless, as Duane says, they broke it, they fix it, promptly.
Sounds like cam timing to me. Maybe they messed with it during valve adjustment......
There is no all models all years software update. They are bullshitting you in a major way. Do you remember which color your neutral indicator light was? What is it now? I am asking because there was one big update years ago for bikes all the way to 2015 that affected fueling and ignition to protect the engine from detonation damage to the pistons. The neutral indicator light 'N' changed from beige to green. I had a 2014 that went through this update with no noticeable changes to performance.
There is no all models all years software update. They are bullshitting you in a major way. Do you remember which color your neutral indicator light was? What is it now? I am asking because there was one big update years ago for bikes all the way to 2015 that affected fueling and ignition to protect the engine from detonation damage to the pistons. The neutral indicator light 'N' changed from beige to green. I had a 2014 that went through this update with no noticeable changes to performance.
Your dealer techs must have an honours degree in BS. Six coil sticks ............ really? A nice little earner.
Unless there is a foreign body in the inlet tract, my suspicion is they have somehow messed with the throttle potentiometer calibration, but then I don't quite understand how hard/fast the bike hits this new found 7k 'limiter'. Are the usual ride mode still available & effective?
Whatever, surely the dealer created the issue, so it remains their responsibility to fix it. Take the complaint formal if necessary.
Unless there is a foreign body in the inlet tract, my suspicion is they have somehow messed with the throttle potentiometer calibration, but then I don't quite understand how hard/fast the bike hits this new found 7k 'limiter'. Are the usual ride mode still available & effective?
Whatever, surely the dealer created the issue, so it remains their responsibility to fix it. Take the complaint formal if necessary.
If the dealership mucked up your bike it's their responsibility to return it to the same working condition the bike was in before they worked on it. I wouldn't accept it's now your responsibility to fix their error by spending 800 bucks on a Bren tune. Contact BMW corporate and file a grievance if the dealership doesn't fix their mistake.
That's the most plausible suggestion.Sounds like cam timing to me. Maybe they messed with it during valve adjustment......
RCunneen did they change the clearance on any of the valves?
Could you post a copy of the work order or invoice (personal info obscured) showing the details of what was done?
What he said. I don’t know what reason they gave you for changing all 6 coils, but I can’t see any way for all 6 to be bad. If somehow all 6 were bad I doubt the bike would even run. Something smells like rotten fish in that service departmentBike runs fine. Shop works on bike. Bike doesn’t run fine. Duh…. Doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out who is responsible. BTW, just stating the dealer changed all 6 coils tells me he ripped you off! I’d demand the dealer fix the bike NOW! If he says no my next call would be to a lawyer.
Duane
Hope you got all the old parts.
Joe
Joe
All valves were rechecked and remain in spec (see attached). Also bike was already in their shop for six weeks (!!!) and they are at a loss, very frustrating for me obviously. Interesting thought irt the cam timing, can you elaborate on that?What he said. I don’t know what reason they gave you for changing all 6 coils, but I can’t see any way for all 6 to be bad. If somehow all 6 were bad I doubt the bike would even run. Something smells like rotten fish in that service department
The guys are thinking that the tech may have allowed the cam chain to jump a tooth or two, turning the motor back/forth when checking the clearances. It's a possibility, but if it runs cleanly below 7k rpm, then I would tend to look elsewhere first given they have supposedly taken a second look already. Incidentally you still haven't mentioned whether you have all the usual ride modes operating effectively.All valves were rechecked and remain in spec (see attached). Also bike was already in their shop for six weeks (!!!) and they are at a loss, very frustrating for me obviously. Interesting thought irt the cam timing, can you elaborate on that? View attachment 164742 View attachment 164743
Anyway, it costs nothing to undertake a throttle reset, in case the tech inadvertently messed with the TPS whilst working on the bike. Even working on the bike at home, it is easy enough to have the ignition on for a while & roll the throttle 3 times, without taking it full open, which reprograms the TPS accordingly. To reset, assuming the TPS is good: -
1. turn ignition "on" but don't start.
2. rotate throttle completely three times (from fully closed to fully open).
3. turn ign. off.
4. Road test the bike & report back.
BTW who gave the instruction to change all the ign coils? Was there a problem misfire or stumble that you reported ?
Good question, my neutral light was green before, no change there after the work was done.Sounds like cam timing to me. Maybe they messed with it during valve adjustment......
There is no all models all years software update. They are bullshitting you in a major way. Do you remember which color your neutral indicator light was? What is it now? I am asking because there was one big update years ago for bikes all the way to 2015 that affected fueling and ignition to protect the engine from detonation damage to the pistons. The neutral indicator light 'N' changed from beige to green. I had a 2014 that went through this update with no noticeable changes to performance.
I'll attempt that process and get back to you.The guys are thinking that the tech may have allowed the cam chain to jump a tooth or two, turning the motor back/forth when checking the clearances. It's a possibility, but if it runs cleanly below 7k rpm, then I would tend to look elsewhere first given they have supposedly taken a second look already. Incidentally you still haven't mentioned whether you have all the usual ride modes operating effectively.
Anyway, it costs nothing to undertake a throttle reset, in case the tech inadvertently messed with the TPS whilst working on the bike. Even working on the bike at home, it is easy enough to have the ignition on for a while & roll the throttle 3 times, without taking it full open, which reprograms the TPS accordingly. To reset, assuming the TPS is good: -
1. turn ignition "on" but don't start.
2. rotate throttle completely three times (from fully closed to fully open).
3. turn ign. off.
4. Road test the bike & report back.
BTW who gave the instruction to change all the ign coils? Was there a problem misfire or stumble that you reported ?
I had one bad coil, it was throwing a check engine light and bike was stumbling intermittently, so I when they had the bike apart I opted to do all of them at once so that's not really the issue here. Could I have saved 800 bucks and just had one replaced, yes absolutely.
So I took the bike for a test ride after resetting the TPS.
Bike will rev to redline like it should when sitting still, i.e. in neutral.
When I put it in gear and accelerate in first it is still hitting what feels like a soft limiter around 6800-7000rpm.
I got some Liquid-Moly fuel injector cleaner and put the appropriate amount in the tank, figure it can't hurt to try at this point.
Of course I will be back with my friends at BMW of Escondido Tuesday afternoon... more to follow.
Bike will rev to redline like it should when sitting still, i.e. in neutral.
When I put it in gear and accelerate in first it is still hitting what feels like a soft limiter around 6800-7000rpm.
I got some Liquid-Moly fuel injector cleaner and put the appropriate amount in the tank, figure it can't hurt to try at this point.
Of course I will be back with my friends at BMW of Escondido Tuesday afternoon... more to follow.
FWIW, many years ago I bought a Honda Super Slug from a workmate as a cheap commuter. I knew they were pretty uninspiring performance wise, but this one was extra lethargic, although it would pull totally cleanly through most of the rev range before running out of puff.The guys are thinking that the tech may have allowed the cam chain to jump a tooth or two, turning the motor back/forth when checking the clearances. It's a possibility, but if it runs cleanly below 7k rpm, then I would tend to look elsewhere first
When I checked, the cam timing was one tooth out. After correcting that it performed as it should, but the most interesting part is that with the cam timing out, it still ran cleanly - just with much reduced performance.
If they messed with the throttle, maybe throttle valve is not opening 100%, or maybe the left tubes unplugged???
I would check errors with diagnostics
I would check errors with diagnostics
Troubleshooting 101:
1. it works
2. You change and/or do something; e.g. In this case plugs, coils, software, valve check
3. It doesn't work
4. Return to # 2 and fix what you broke
Duane
1. it works
2. You change and/or do something; e.g. In this case plugs, coils, software, valve check
3. It doesn't work
4. Return to # 2 and fix what you broke
Duane
1 - 20 of 95 Posts
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