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Discussion Starter #1
Any input appreciated. Today when I took a short ride on my K1600GT I noticed a small amount of looseness in the steering, as in I could turn the bars left and right about a centimetre and there was a clunk , I continued riding but chose to come back home. I thought I'd check the nut that holds the handlebars on and it was loose, I tried tightening it but no sooner would I feel a little tightness when the nut would turn freely, so I took the nut off to find it stripped. I got a replacement nut from the local nut and bolt shop and when putting it on was getting some tension when all of a sudden, loose again, upon further inspection the thread on the steering stem was also stripped. I removed the washer and was able to grab a few more threads with the nut, so I was able to park my bike up while I wait for replacement parts. So I'll be ordering the steering stem, and all necessary bits such as new bearings etc. I noticed the other day when cleaning the bike that there was a slight clunk when pushing the front wheel back and forward, doing a google search back then there were a few posts about a tie rod problem. So should I order a tie rod at the same time and do everything in the one hit? that is my first question. Second question is does the bearing on the steering stem require pressing on as I can not find any information about it on the net, and third question can someone send me any information about replacing the steering stem let alone how to remove it. Any suggestions and input will be greatly appreciated..
 

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International Man of Mystery
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From my recollection 95 NM should be the correct torque. If you have to go all the way into the front suspension, I would replace the ball joints if the bike has 50k + on it. Do the wheel bearings as well. Get yourself a factory manual before you tear into it, could save you further headaches.

Looks like you got yourself a real problem child with that bike. Been following your saga for a while now. What is the MY and the mileage on that rig?
 
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You don't seem to be having much luck with your GT. It's a 2012 IIRC, but I don't know the mileage/Km.

I cannot recall ever hearing a case of the stem (11) or stem nut being stripped - is there any evidence of ham-fisted accident repairs elsewhere?

The stem connects with the shear joint, as shown on these diagrams ........... RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog You will need to strip the tupperware back to check whether there are any problems - whilst I have seen my bike stripped back by a tech for a front shock replacement I have never needed to get down & dirty with the steering stem, which gets a relatively easy life when you consider how the front suspension functions.

When it comes to front end clunks, well it could be just the brake pads & hence perfectly normal. However, on higher mileage bikes it is often the two ball joints on the front fork. The lower should be easy to check - get a buddy to sit on the bike, front brake on, then rock the bike back & forth. You reach under the front fairing, cup your hand over the lower ball joint & see if you can detect play. Search will lead you to many discussions on the subject of replacing these BJs if it proves necessary.
 

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Wow you have had no luck with this purchase.
Hopefully you enjoy fixing things. When you get this sorted it will be worth it.
 

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Clunking when pushing the front wheel back and forth is usually a sign of the ball joint being worn. With all the issues you have to contend with purchasing a repair DVD would be prudent. It is listed in your dealers micro fiche and can be ordered from him.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
From my recollection 95 NM should be the correct torque. If you have to go all the way into the front suspension, I would replace the ball joints if the bike has 50k + on it. Do the wheel bearings as well. Get yourself a factory manual before you tear into it, could save you further headaches.

Looks like you got yourself a real problem child with that bike. Been following your saga for a while now. What is the MY and the mileage on that rig?
nov 2011 build, 55,000KM's
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Mr.Fix It
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@Marc-Robinson , I swear I'd consider tack welding the nut onto the steering head before I'd pay $1500. Another option would be to have a local machine shop look at it; they may be able to machine in new threads. You'd have to use a smaller inside diameter nut. And, of course, you'd have to remove the steering head from the bike.

Duane
 
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Discussion Starter #10
@Marc-Robinson , I swear I'd consider tack welding the nut onto the steering head before I'd pay $1500. Another option would be to have a local machine shop look at it; they may be able to machine in new threads. You'd have to use a smaller inside diameter nut. And, of course, you'd have to remove the steering head from the bike.

Duane
I've thought of that, but still need the information in a manual on how to remove it....
 

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International Man of Mystery
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Watch you PM box pls. Sent you something
 

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Mr.Fix It
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@Marc-Robinson , You're going to need the BMW Maintenance DVD if you're going to remove it yourself.

Duane
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Marc-Robinson , You're going to need the BMW Maintenance DVD if you're going to remove it yourself.

Duane
Have ordered a manual from BMW as all the crap I bought on eBay were nothing more than the free ones that are downloadable. Still waiting on parts from BMW. When moving the bike in the garage just now noticed that full lock to the right the handle bars clear the tank by about a CM, full lock to the left and id say more than just touching the tank, Don't know if its the cheap Chinese bar risers out of alignment or something more sinister, I still feel a clunk and when bouncing the front suspension feel the sale, put a spanner on the nut for lower ball joint and with a wack of my palm the nut turn turned easily, I noticed the rubber boot is sitting quite saggy like there is no grease in them, are they greaseable? I'm quickly running out of money to throw at this bike...
 
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