[Brick]

I’ve been experiencing issues with the complete loss of throttle. Originally it occasionally required me to give the throttle a slightly opening in order to get my GT to start. Lately, I’ve sctually been experiencing the complete loss of throttle, particularly under hard or rapid acceleration. If the throttle is opened smoothly, there’s no issues, but if ridden angry, it will become an issue.
At first I thought it was a dodgy connection, but after a weekend of cleaning wiring connections, I’m pretty sure this isn’t the problem. I did previously reset the twist grip and throttle using my GS-911WIFI, which seemed to fix the issue for a while. Unfortunately it seems like my GS-911WIFI is now experiencing issues with the antenna, meaning I can’t investifate further. I’ve brought a new interface to allow me to get back into the computer, but not until late next week.
Has anyone got any suggestions? I’m thinking it’s the throttle position sensor or the throttle servo?
It’s a 2011 GT with just over 100,000 miles.

 

[ViennaK]

Could be the tps yes, but it could be the throttle body actuator or the throttle grip sensor. Without an error code it is all guessing. And like nothing to fix other than replacing the unit in question.

 

[Brick]

Could be the tps yes, but it could be the throttle body actuator or the throttle grip sensor. Without an error code it is all guessing. And like nothing to fix other than replacing the unit in question.

That’s the problem at the moment. At least as far as the GS-911WIFI was concerned, there was no error code. I’ve lashed out and brought an ISTA+ interface. That’ll be interesting

 

[earthling]

Very interested in hearing about your progress with the ISTA+ (or D/P).

 

[Brick]

Very interested in hearing about your progress with the ISTA+ (or D/P).

I was hoping it would be here for the weekend. Typically looking more like Monday.

 

[Mount Up]

Same issue with the throttle I reset it with The GS 911 but now I do not have a cruise control I can set it but it don’t catch the throttle now

 

[earthling]

Have you tried disabling traction control?

 

[Mount Up]

Well on this issue the resetting of the throttle must have helped me but the cruse controller was fixed by dealer doing the 50k service.

 

[Shiny_rabbits]

Can I poke this thread? Any news?
And when you say "loss of throttle" what does that mean?

I'm asking because I have the problem of sudden limp-home mode. (ECU suddenly commanding a fixed 1600 rpm.) This has plagued me for 2 years. New wiring to grip (BMW's attempt at a solution), new twist grip (Mine), all to no avail. Seems to happen at random: 1 time I was accelerating at highway speed to pass--70 to 35 mph in the time it takes to fill my pants--another time it was light throttle, noodling around a parking lot.

In the last 6 events, here are the GS-911 codes:
21faa4 4 times
21f950 4 times
21f951 1 time
21f952 3 times
21f954 3 times

All point to the throttle grip sensor. (errors in monitoring, raw value, Ch 1/2 MIN range, or comparing)

Open to suggestions, but looks to me like I need to buy a wiring harness and carefully tease out and replace everything from ECU to grip. I need to find the tools to un-pin the ECU connector or prepare to cut/solder/heatshrink a huge number of wires.

Sadly, the dealer has informed me that BMW can no longer support the bike because it's out of warranty and the title was branded "Lemon Law." For this very problem, I knew there was a chance I'd reach this point. A little venting, a little sanity check, and a last hope it's something other than a hungover assembly-line tech f'd up the wiring or installation.

 

[d martin]

@Shiny_rabbits Here’s a wealth of info for you to read Search results for query: Throttle body

 

[Shiny_rabbits]

@Shiny_rabbits Here’s a wealth of info for you to read Search results for query: Throttle body

Thank you for that. Is it relevant to a series of incidents all of whose codes point to the throttle grip sensor? I understand that limp-mode is happening in those cases too, but are they coding to the grip? (I'm asking you because you've clearly been following this for a long time.)

Since I now have a complete wiring harness in hand, I'm about to start removing the wrapping so I can see where the throttle (or entire left-bar) wiring ends up. My goal's to replace just that branch, ideally without de-pinning the "new" wires so Ze Germans* can't claim a pin-swap damaged any results.

But if a $700 throttle body is a better bet, I'm willing to try it. Just trying to prioritize.

*If ever my heirs or future generations actually wanted to pursue product support from the people who one would think would support it. This wiring-task is tedious but I've done it before. A throttle body replacement sounds like a walk in the park.

 

[Synt]

Maybe you have already done it?
Have you recallibrated the throttle valve and throttle, and after heated the bike untill the fan goes on so that the ECU reads values?
I did it on my 2016 as limp mode went in a few times, since then the problem didnt show up.
Did the job with GS-911.
Enjoy & keep safe!

 

[Shiny_rabbits]

Thanks @Synt yes I’ve recal’d and like everything, the problem doesn’t reappear for a while. I’m about to go out and install a complete throttle-wire bundle alongside the main harness. I bought a main harness on eBay and destroyed other connectors figuring out how to depin the wires at the ecu end. I have a 6 wire, throttle only bundle wrapped in lineman’s silicone tape. Let me reassure you, this is doable and the hardest part lays ahead of me, repinning my new bundle into the bike’s connector in the tight confines without straining the existing wiring.

I think I see why BMW halted the process on my bike: they decided wiring was the next thing to be fixed and the only replaceable unit is the entire wiring harness. ($1500 from them. It’s 54lbs of wire, about $60 for me on eBay.) They don’t provide any info on depinning and I suppose that’s why they told the dealer to quit.

For those who might care, here’s my previous comment with some reasons why I’m here. I acknowledge there was a recall for older bikes, and I admit I don’t know if I have a ...263 or a ...960 throttle body. But since I can’t find a clear citation of grip-codes in limp-mode failures apparently cured by throttle body replacement, I’m sticking with BMW’s apparently wiring-centric path. Besides, I’ve figured out a way to get to the final replacement using my talents, I’ve done this work before. Honestly, it took me discovering a video on depinning a VW-group connector to discover how to get to ye olde straight-pin trick. (Tripping the pin‘s locking tangs with a straight pin.)

if this doesn’t work, I have a ...960 throttle body coming from eBay ($80 on eBay, $700 from Bmw)

Color me an idiot, I don’t really care. I’m on my own, either I fix it myself, sell it to some poor sucker, or junk it.

 

[Synt]

Good luck & pacience, thats an advanced brico!

 

[Shiny_rabbits]

On replacing the throttle wiring: It's not hard, but it's trying. You'll need to buy an entire wiring harness on eBay. They weigh almost 60 lbs, and you'll need 6 strands out of that. Short description: keep the throttle-end connector, and the factory-attached pins from the ECU's connector. (The only ECU connector involved in this is the one and only with a "stair-stepped" back-shell. This makes no sense now, but when you see your wiring harness, it'll become obvious.)

Basically, slit or snip the jacketing between the throttle and it's ECU connector. Be careful, even nicking the insulation could render the project pointless. The pins go like this, from the throttle connector: 1->58, 2->25, 3->12, 4->26, 5->13, and 6->45. Both connectors are distinctly labeled, but count and recount to make sure you've got it right. Use a continuity tester that beeps, test everything before, during, and after. De-pin the donor-wiring loom and wrap up your new throttle bundle with self-sealing silicone tape leaving 6+ inches free at the pin-end.

De-pinning the connector requires removing the locking-slider and a hidden retainer clip. Both accomplished with a small screwdriver. Each pin is in a T-shaped hole. The pin is in the T's top, the vertical part is where you slip in a straight pin. GENTLY pushing the pin outward will press the release. The wire must have NO tension on it when you do this. Since you've got an entire wiring harness, find similar pins and practice. When it works, the straight pin will ever so slightly "click" and the connector pin will slide out effortlessly. The pins return equally effortlessly and distinctly click into place. A gentle tug confirms they're seated. They have a very tiny amount of movement when properly latched into place, less than a thousandth of an inch.

Disconnect the battery's negative terminal. Lay your new bundle in place so you'll be ready to test, de-pin, test, re-pin, test. When you're finished, test it again. Then put the negative terminal back on, and start the bike. Finish wrapping, tie things up, and run with the old plug/pins intact, in case you have to revert. I'm going to chop those off in a few weeks when I'm sure.

I actually have low confidence this will fix the problem but it's the next fix in a direct line from "Throttle grip sensor(s) have lost connection." I sprayed all my connectors with CAIG De-Oxit D5; it's a very analog solution to a digital problem, but this stuff saved a lot of audio equipment 2 careers ago.

 

[Alex Tatarnikov]

On replacing the throttle wiring: It's not hard, but it's trying. You'll need to buy an entire wiring harness on eBay. They weigh almost 60 lbs, and you'll need 6 strands out of that. Short description: keep the throttle-end connector, and the factory-attached pins from the ECU's connector. (The only ECU connector involved in this is the one and only with a "stair-stepped" back-shell. This makes no sense now, but when you see your wiring harness, it'll become obvious.)

Basically, slit or snip the jacketing between the throttle and it's ECU connector. Be careful, even nicking the insulation could render the project pointless. The pins go like this, from the throttle connector: 1->58, 2->25, 3->12, 4->26, 5->13, and 6->45. Both connectors are distinctly labeled, but count and recount to make sure you've got it right. Use a continuity tester that beeps, test everything before, during, and after. De-pin the donor-wiring loom and wrap up your new throttle bundle with self-sealing silicone tape leaving 6+ inches free at the pin-end.

De-pinning the connector requires removing the locking-slider and a hidden retainer clip. Both accomplished with a small screwdriver. Each pin is in a T-shaped hole. The pin is in the T's top, the vertical part is where you slip in a straight pin. GENTLY pushing the pin outward will press the release. The wire must have NO tension on it when you do this. Since you've got an entire wiring harness, find similar pins and practice. When it works, the straight pin will ever so slightly "click" and the connector pin will slide out effortlessly. The pins return equally effortlessly and distinctly click into place. A gentle tug confirms they're seated. They have a very tiny amount of movement when properly latched into place, less than a thousandth of an inch.
View attachment 150728

Disconnect the battery's negative terminal. Lay your new bundle in place so you'll be ready to test, de-pin, test, re-pin, test. When you're finished, test it again. Then put the negative terminal back on, and start the bike. Finish wrapping, tie things up, and run with the old plug/pins intact, in case you have to revert. I'm going to chop those off in a few weeks when I'm sure.

I actually have low confidence this will fix the problem but it's the next fix in a direct line from "Throttle grip sensor(s) have lost connection." I sprayed all my connectors with CAIG De-Oxit D5; it's a very analog solution to a digital problem, but this stuff saved a lot of audio equipment 2 careers ago.

Did it help? Have same issue with the same errors codes on my S1000RR, replaced the twistgrip but didn't help. On first look the throttle wiring looks good but it just can't be anything else.

 

[BMW man]

That’s the problem at the moment. At least as far as the GS-911WIFI was concerned, there was no error code. I’ve lashed out and brought an ISTA+ interface. That’ll be interesting

helllo did yu ever try the ista tool im curious about buying one of those tools please let me know thx

 

[Shiny_rabbits]

Alex T & BMW man: Sorry for the delay, I've mangled my user-settings so I don't get notified.

Alex T: My replacing ALL the right-grip wiring has worked. No problems since. While this was an easy job for me, I again acknowledge that this may only be so because of my weird skill set. I've cut the ends of the old wires and left them inside the original bundle, and silicone taped my new bundle to it.

BMW man: I am working on my ISTA setup. Re-installed it, installed the needed drivers (Dell USB), and hacked the USB port settings as instructed on my ISTA download package. Communications are restored, I can poll the bike, run tests on every ECU. But I'm again getting the ICOM-error messages, so I'm thinking about buying an abay ICOM box...but not sure if they work. (I'm using KDCAN.) Basically, my ISTA status is "Back where I was 3 yrs ago" which is an improvement in resoring bike-polling but same obstacle of ICOM problems.

 

[BMW man]

Alex T & BMW man: Sorry for the delay, I've mangled my user-settings so I don't get notified.

Alex T: My replacing ALL the right-grip wiring has worked. No problems since. While this was an easy job for me, I again acknowledge that this may only be so because of my weird skill set. I've cut the ends of the old wires and left them inside the original bundle, and silicone taped my new bundle to it.

BMW man: I am working on my ISTA setup. Re-installed it, installed the needed drivers (Dell USB), and hacked the USB port settings as instructed on my ISTA download package. Communications are restored, I can poll the bike, run tests on every ECU. But I'm again getting the ICOM-error messages, so I'm thinking about buying an abay ICOM box...but not sure if they work. (I'm using KDCAN.) Basically, my ISTA status is "Back where I was 3 yrs ago" which is an improvement in resoring bike-polling but same obstacle of ICOM problems.

ok thx for the info much appreciated

 

[Prince]

I hope Brick is okay. It has been 1 1/2 years since he has been on the forum.

Do any of our Aussies friends know how he is?