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Scammer Hammer
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The lower-cost, indirect TPMS doesn't actually monitor air pressure. Rather, the indirect TPMS uses the antilock braking system's wheel-speed sensor to detect that one tire is rotating faster than its mates. (An underinflated tire has a smaller circumference so it has to roll faster to keep up.) Thus, there's a large margin of error in indirect systems.
Our VW has the indirect. I am not impressed.

I went down a gravel road Wednesday and the darn thing lit up telling me the front left wheel experienced loss of pressure. I was concerned, of course. I measured the pressure and there was no loss of pressure.
 

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Our VW has the indirect. I am not impressed.

I went down a gravel road Wednesday and the darn thing lit up telling me the front left wheel experienced loss of pressure. I was concerned, of course. I measured the pressure and there was no loss of pressure.
I never knew they existed until a couple months back. Visited my folks in S MO and mom's car had a warning light on. I checked all the tires and they were fine. Stopped by WMart and the guy said they just needed "calibrated" and the sensors were in the wheel well. As an engineer, I was wondering how they worked. She had had a flat repaired and that's what caused it. The system monitors wheel rotation speed and diameter to determine if the tire is low. Hard to imagine it's very accurate. As an FYI, you can calibrate them from the cars display panel (radio). You just have to make sure all the wheels are set to the correct pressure first.
 

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Scammer Hammer
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I never knew they existed until a couple months back. Visited my folks in S MO and mom's car had a warning light on. I checked all the tires and they were fine. Stopped by WMart and the guy said they just needed "calibrated" and the sensors were in the wheel well. As an engineer, I was wondering how they worked. She had had a flat repaired and that's what caused it. The system monitors wheel rotation speed and diameter to determine if the tire is low. Hard to imagine it's very accurate. As an FYI, you can calibrate them from the cars display panel (radio). You just have to make sure all the wheels are set to the correct pressure first.
Yes and I did that after making sure there wasn't a problem.

I think going down a gravel and bumpy road caused the very slow witted tpms to think there was a loss of pressure.
 

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We are when a newbie comes in here and tells us we're all doing it wrong with no long-term experience to back it up. Manufacturers have teams of highly educated engineers who study things and write specifications based on these studies.
 
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Seems like the rubber between 2 solid surfaces..the road and your wheel...with increased pressure would increase the wear...less pressure..less wear....atleast that is what I've experienced on my 1290 with 10psi less that what they recommend
What you are saying makes no sense. Heat is the enemy of tire wear. Low pressure causes more tread deflection (not sure if that’s the right term) and higher heat. Lower pressure to a point is better for handling, higher pressure better wear. But it’s all a compromise that manufacturers make based upon the intended use of the motorcycle.

You say you get better wear on your KTM with lower pressure. There are a lot of variables, I’d guess it’s more complicated why you are getting better wear. I moved from Houston to the Texas Hill country and it made a major difference in wear due to the road surfaces I’m riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
What you are saying makes no sense. Heat is the enemy of tire wear. Low pressure causes more tread deflection (not sure if that’s the right term).p and higher heat. Lower pressure to a point is better for handling, higher pressure better wear. But it’s all a compromise that manufacturers make based upon the intended use of the motorcycle.

You say you get better wear on your KTM with lower pressure. There are a lot of variables, I’d guess it’s more complicated why you are getting better wear. I moved from Houston to the Texas Hill country and it made a major difference in wear due to the road surfaces I’m riding.
I'm in the N. Ga Mtns...lots of twisties...tires rarely make it past the 2k mark.... the 42 is a one size fits all number for 2 up...so if you assume 300 extra pounds off that number....for a single rider..im thinking 38... :)
 

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The tire manufacturer's pressure recommendation means literally nothing. It's the motorcycle's manufacturer pressure recommendation that should be used.
That notion is exactly what got Firestone sued like crazy over the Ford Explorer rollover debacle many years ago. The reality was that it was Ford’s foolish pressure recommendation that caused the problem. They wanted a particular ride-handling balance, so they recommended a much different tire pressure than what the tire manufacturer said they should use for that vehicle (weight and use).

Tire manufacturers have pressure-load tables so that you match the two correctly. Vehicle manufacturers rarely do any more (although my pickups used to, many years ago).
 

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Mr.Fix It
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@KL51212 , You are WRONG, DEAD WRONG! I remember the Explorer debacle. As a matter-of-fact, I had a niece killed in an Explorer tire blowout/rollover in 2000. Your insinuation that Ford singularly is/was at fault is misleading at best or much more accurately just simply wrong. Using your false logic would assume vehicle manufactures defer to tire manufacturer's for tire pressures. Which, of course we know is wrong; just look in ANY owners manual or for autos the sticker inside the drivers door for tire pressures.

Yes, I've played around with tire pressures; mainly on the track. But those tires were always Dunlop Qualifiers; basically a track tire with added rain grooves to make them street legal. Qualifiers are made for the high heat requirements for riding on a track.

I've been on this forum for about 10 years now. And I know there are some that don't see eye to eye with all I have to say. But, I'd STRONGLY RECOMMEND anyone that rides a motorcycle or drives a car to ALWAYS inflate your tires IAW the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

Duane
 

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I'm in the N. Ga Mtns...lots of twisties...tires rarely make it past the 2k mark.... the 42 is a one size fits all number for 2 up...so if you assume 300 extra pounds off that number....for a single rider..im thinking 38... :)
I agree with that. I’ve been in your area several times, most recently two months ago. We spent three nights in Robbinsville and two in Dahlonega. Fabulous roads and night and day better paved than the roads I have in the Texas Hill Country
 

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@KL51212 , You are WRONG, DEAD WRONG! I remember the Explorer debacle. As a matter-of-fact, I had a niece killed in an Explorer tire blowout/rollover in 2000. Your insinuation that Ford singularly is/was at fault is misleading at best or much more accurately just simply wrong. Using your false logic would assume vehicle manufactures defer to tire manufacturer's for tire pressures. Which, of course we know is wrong; just look in ANY owners manual or for autos the sticker inside the drivers door for tire pressures.

Yes, I've played around with tire pressures; mainly on the track. But those tires were always Dunlop Qualifiers; basically a track tire with added rain grooves to make them street legal. Qualifiers are made for the high heat requirements for riding on a track.

I've been on this forum for about 10 years now. And I know there are some that don't see eye to eye with all I have to say. But, I'd STRONGLY RECOMMEND anyone that rides a motorcycle or drives a car to ALWAYS inflate your tires IAW the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

Duane
I did some digging and agree with you completely.
 

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International Man of Mystery
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The answer is 42,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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