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Discussion Starter #1
Last night, I decided to install a power port in my top case to keep my phone (or anything else USB compatible) topped off while traveling. I chose to put in a dual USB outlet instead of a 12V outlet. I can't think of anything 12V that I would need/want to have plugged in from the top case while underway.

Like others before me, I did so by removing the top shell only.

Running the wires...

I pulled the grommet off the bottom and fished a solid core wire up from that hold to the area of the gas strut. I pulled it up through that hole using another solid wire. I fished yet another wire down into the hole at the corner of the case by the hinge and also pulled it through the strut opening. I then tied to those solid wires a pair of stranded wires (18 gauge) and pulled them from outside the bottom hole out the strut hole I then tied the same wires to the other solid wire then pulled the stranded wires out through the hole in the corner of the case (pulling the wires entirely back into the strut hole). I ran them across the front edge of the top case just above the bottom edge, taping them in place across the curve.

I then pulled the wires through the grommet on the bottom so everything would be sealed as before and covered the new pair with a braided shield from that point to the point under the seat..

Installing the outlet...

I chose to place the outlet in a place on the left side of the case near the hinges. The shell has a little more space there and I figure I'd need it given the depth of the outlet I had.

The FM antenna was partly in the way. To make room for the outlet, I trimmed the clear part of the plastic back a bit...the opaque part is the actual antenna, the clear part is just there to hold the antenna in place. I'll never miss it....even if I were to ever listen to the radio.

Using a hole saw, I cut a hole through that spot. After screwing the collar on it, it appears like it might be just a bit tool large. Trying the put the shell back on for fit, it was hitting. So, I bent over the connectors since, once wires were added, they'd stick out even more. Still not enough, once the connectors were made, i used another screw collar on the inside side of the sell to restrict how deep the outlet would go into the space....it worked.

Still to do....

Instead of connecting directly to an accessory circuit with posi-locks, I plan to add new pins to the top case barrel connector....but I didn't have time right now to do that part.

Attached are the pictures of the wire routing.
 

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I'd love to see a punch list of tools and parts for using that barrel connector. I reused the wiring for my unused backrest heater and powered off of PDM60, but in a perfect world I'd do what you intend


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Forgot to include the brake like updates...

I clipped the grey/yellow/black wire into the barrel connector for the top case and connected it to the brake light controller in my ezCAN. Looking at the skene controller instructions, it suggested cutting the ground wire and connecting the two ends to their controller. I didn't touch the ground wire as it should be common anyway. Now, my OEM top case light functions as a combination running light/brake light.


I also installed Clearwater Billie as well....connected to the same controller. I drilled a hole behind the license plate and routed the wire through that (with a grommet installed). Wow is that thing bright. In fact, it is overbearingly bright, particularly at the running light level, even with its brightness electronically reduced by the controller to the lowest level short of off.

Rather than increased intensity, I think you really want increased area of similar intensity light so that you get more visibility without confusing indications. As it was, it appeared like the brakes were being applied all the time....and then it got even brighter when the brakes were applied.

To bring it in line with the other lights, I covered the LED with some grey film called "LightDims". It is generally intended for electronics that have annoyingly bright lights. I'm not sure it will stay attached for long, but it will work for now until I get back from my upcoming trip and find a more appropriate solution. Now, the Billie has a similar intensity as the bike's lights at both levels (running/brake).
 

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Good stuff, RC.

Can you clarify how you made the topcase brakelight to also work as a running light? I mean are you driving that from the EZCan or a Skene controller?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Good stuff, RC.

Can you clarify how you made the topcase brakelight to also work as a running light? I mean are you driving that from the EZCan or a Skene controller?
Driving it from the ezCAN.

The ezCAN has a brake channel that will set it to whatever percentage brightness you want as a running light and then will, optionally, flash it to another brightness you can set (presumably 100% for most) when you apply the brakes or decelerate (with a few options on when and how to flash) and hold it at that level until you release the brakes.

I'm pretty sure a Skene controller can do the same thing but it would also need a connection to the brake light line to trigger the brake light...not a problem since it is the other side of the wire that I cut and drive with the ezCAN.

The CANOpener can do something similar too.

If you didn't want to go with any of those options that add blinking functions, there are still choices. Custom Dynamics makes rather simple modules for their lights (and I'm sure others make them too) that let you convert a single light into a dual running/tail light.

Examples:
https://www.customdynamics.com/truflex-led-dual-color-dual-converter or https://www.customdynamics.com/truflex-ii-dual-converters

I'm sure the circuit consists of two diodes and one resistor. One diode would connect between the existing brake light wire and the brake light. The other would connect to the resistor and that pair (in series) would connect between the accessory power and brake light. The resistor value would be chosen based on the amount of dimming desired for the running light relative to the brake light and would depend on the current drawn by the light at full brightness.

That said, since CD sells them for $5 each, I'd be inclined to just buy a few of their models to try. All that can go wrong is the running light is too close in brightness to the brake light or too dark and it would only cost about $20 to go through most of their options.
 

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Ahhhh, brilliant!

Diggin it... even though the rear running lights seem plenty bright and noticeable, I like this idea.

I used that diode circuit on another project, another bike... works great, and cheap!... but will look into EZcan and Skene too. Thanks.

 
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I installed bungie buddies above the hinges on a non-electric top box. Before I drill a stop light auto locking top box I'd appreciate confirmation that there is no antenna or wiring in that location.

Tom

 

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I saw this and decided to put USB ports in as well. I just had my GTL box painted to match my GT and am waiting for a few other parts, so the top is all apart already. I ordered these from Amazon:

USB: This is a flush mount option with only one tiny hole for the wires, I'll double sided tape it to the inside top case. Will Update soon, I copied a work link in by mistake (Oops)!

Wires: This gives me a few fused wires, one with a battery connection and plenty of wires to cut to attach to the USB wires. Amazon.com: Hilitchi 4 Pcs 2 3 6 ft Battery Charger Kit SAE to SAE Extension Cable SAE to O Ring Terminal Harness Wire Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Plug with Cap(16 18 awg): Automotive

I plan on cutting one of the SAE to SAE wires in half to attach to the USB wires and route out of the box. I'll use the battery to SAE to route to the SAE coming out of the box. I'll tuck the connected SAE-SAE connections under the grab handles with Velcro.

Any downside to this? Thoughts?

Thx
 

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Eventually I am going to do something similar, but using the existing wiring. When I removed the backrest pad from the top case to send it to RDL, I discovered that my 2018 GTL is still wired for the heated backrest pad that the GTL-E from 2016 and earlier had. In theory, all I need to do is identify which wires are connected to the heating harness in the quick connect for top case power under the passenger seat, and then run 12V to those. I will then add an accessory 12V or USB connector inside the top case. The nice part about this is that I will not have to fish any additional wires through the top case wiring harness. Any wire of sufficient gauge to handle a heating circuit is going to be more than enough to power a 12V or USB accessory in the top case. It's too bad BMW didn't think of this with the discontinuance of the GTL-E trim- the only one that had the heated passenger backrest. The wiring was already in place...
 
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