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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
There are instructions in the owners manual as to how to tie down and secure the K. I would never use the handle bars, even if someone else had successfully done so. I would recommend against it even if it had been done previously without damage.

If I had to use a truck like described, a rental, and therefore could not attach the chock to the bed, I might try a sheet of 3/4” plywood cut in half and doubled up in two 4x4 layers, screwed together with some 1.25” wood or sheetrock screws. I would slide this to the front of the box so it would not slide forward. I would attach the chick to this. I would fasten some through-bolt eyelets so I could fasten the front suspension as directed in the owner’s manual. As also shown in the manual, IIRC, straps from the passenger peg mounts to the panel via wall rails, when directed slightly forward, would keep the bike and chock from sliding rearward. If you wanted to fasten a couple 2X4s from the plywood to each side panel to keep the chock from shifting left to right that would be a good idea as well. I would go to all this bit of trouble to keep from fastening straps to the handlebars.

When the front wheel is on the ramp and the rear wheel is on the ground your feet will not be able to touch. It is during this transitional moment that you do not want to stop momentum forward or back.

Beat wishes for a successful transport.
Thanks James, very helpful tips.

Indeed, I'm bolting the chock to the plywood and using the manual as reference for tie-downs.
 

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Depending on the Ramp width some bikes can be hard to walk backwards on a ramp.

I seldom Have issues going up but down can be difficult.

I double up my car ramps.
 

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Thanks James, very helpful tips.

Indeed, I'm bolting the chock to the plywood and using the manual as reference for tie-downs.
If it were me in addition to the plywood substrate under the chock I would also mount a 2x6 transversely to the front of the chock. Use a full 8 footer if you want. I would then mount the eye bolts in that rather than in the plywood and cinch some straps from those eye bolts to the engine guards.
 

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I also would not tie to the handlebars. There's probably several ways that work. I added the pages from the manual and how the company suggests tying the bike down. I hauled mine home after the break in miles because I didn't have a second driver, and it rode just fine. I did use a trailer with a 4 tall plywood in front to keep my pickup tires from sending anything up that could potentially damage the paint job, and the ramp is 6 feet wide and much lower than the pickup bed. I would use closed hooks, or in my case I bypass the hooks and use quick links that screw together, so there's no way a hook can come unhooked.
 

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You will be fine with your plan in the truck. When driving up the ramp, you need to be committed because you won't be able to touch the ground. Once you are in, be sure to be ready to brake so you don't go flying out the front!

I hauled an Electra Glide this way in 2006. I did a 1,000 point turn because I was not backing out of the truck. I also did not use a wheel chock. This was from Virginia to Mississippi. I drove a KTM Duke and Triumph Speed Triple in it as well.
You best make sure the ramp is tied down to the bumper and/or frame, or you will be crashing. Seen many a video of people trying to ride a buke up an unsecured ramp. Good luck.
 

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I would NOT personally use those handlebar dealies to tie these bikes down. You're running the risk of messing up the wiz wheel. I've trailered my bike thousands of miles (wife will ride locally, not long distance) on a small 4x8 utility trailer with no issues. The front is tied under the fairing right next to the shock (it's described somewhere in the manual). And in the rear, I tie to each of the rear footrests, although I just trailered it 120 miles without tying the back, only the front, BUT!!! my trailer setup has a wheel chock that by itself will hold the bike (harbor freight $40). at any rate, the point being is don't use those handlebar tie-downs.
 

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2018 BMW K1600 GA, 2022 BMW K1600 GTL
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Hi everyone,

With the following setup, I'm transporting my K1600 GTL about 650 Miles in a Penske truck. I'm just trying to get a bit of a sanity check and maybe learn something from your experience.

Setup:
K1600 GTL almost empty tank
Trackside roll-on wheel chock bolted to a one-inch thick piece of plywood for extra stability
Four Trackside loop tie-downs
Two of the Trackside tie-downs will go from the front to the wheel chock
The other two will go to the railings of the truck

To get it in and out of the truck, I'm using the ramp, but just in case, I reinforced it with a 2x4 pedestal that I managed to tie-down with underneath for extra support.

The ramp is wide enough for the bike but a bit uncomfortable to keep my feet down, especially on the way down. The solution I bought was two Home Depot 6x10 by 10" long posts that I tied down to the bed of the truck. That will allow me to keep my feet down and supported. Equally, I added a 2x4 support for extra stability and reinforcement.

Why not ship it, you might ask? Well, you deserve full transparency.
  1. The cost of shipping and the above right is a wash
  2. I'm moving, so I need to put other minor things in the truck
  3. All shipping companies I called would give me a window that would leave me without my bike for almost a month
  4. I'm moving near the Blue Ridge mountains, and I can't live without my bike for that long
Thanks for the sanity check and any suggestions.
I trailer my GTL and GA regularly. My suggestion is, with just 4 straps don't strap to the chock with 2, then the chock to the truck with 2. Use 2 to strap the front (1 per side) to the truck in front of the connection point on the bike. Likewise, use 2 to strap the rear of the bike to the truck behind the connection point on the bike.

For convenience, on the front I also use a Bar-Harness (Canyon Dancer 32505 Black Bar-Harness II for 32" Handlebars https://a.co/d/4nPG1OJ on Amazon and pictured below). For all straps, I use ratchet straps at least 1 1/2 inches wide.

Head Gesture Headgear Font Auto part
 

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I trailer my GTL and GA regularly. My suggestion is, with just 4 straps don't strap to the chock with 2, then the chock to the truck with 2. Use 2 to strap the front (1 per side) to the truck in front of the connection point on the bike. Likewise, use 2 to strap the rear of the bike to the truck behind the connection point on the bike.

For convenience, on the front I also use a Bar-Harness (Canyon Dancer 32505 Black Bar-Harness II for 32" Handlebars https://a.co/d/4nPG1OJ on Amazon and pictured below). For all straps, I use ratchet straps at least 1 1/2 inches wide.

View attachment 175911
I would stick to what is in the owners manual.
 

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Personally, I would also rent one of these and tow it behind...

View attachment 175820
I second the suggestion.
Good friend bought a 2013 r1200 in Arizona, he was wondering how to get it it out here , so I suggested the Uhaul for motorcycle s.
Took my suggestion, said it was perfect for the job, didn’t know it was behind his car.
RBGary
 

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Not exactly a Penske but it was a U-Haul 10 footer.
Travelled 600 miles as you see it. No issue at all.

Good luck.

Joe

View attachment 175821
My only comment is that it looks like you're using CanyonChasers handlebar harness to tie down the front end. I can tell you that several people I know ended up with either cracked or broken handlebars when strapping down their bikes via the cast handle bars......even when they used the CanyonChasers. I can't speak for the robustness of BMW cast handlebars, but more than one Kawasaki C14 ended up with broken cast bars trailering that way. You might want to consider strapping the bike down the way the Owners Manual recommends it to be safe.
 

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My only comment is that it looks like you're using CanyonChasers handlebar harness to tie down the front end. I can tell you that several people I know ended up with either cracked or broken handlebars when strapping down their bikes via the cast handle bars......even when they used the CanyonChasers. I can't speak for the robustness of BMW cast handlebars, but more than one Kawasaki C14 ended up with broken cast bars trailering that way. You might want to consider strapping the bike down the way the Owners Manual recommends it to be safe.
Thanks for the tip.
I'll remember that if I ever have to transport a Kawasaki C14.

Joe
 

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2023 K1600 GA 719 Midnight, 2001 Kawasaki ZG1200
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I use the U-Haul trailers as well. They have a well at the front to lodge the front tire and lots of good anchor points. This is a pic I took on my way home from the dealership. The staff at the dealership were very helpful with advice for loading and securing the big rig. To date, I made the trip 3 times with the trailer.
View attachment 175842
Where are you attaching the straps on the motorcycle. I just looked at the trailer at my local uhaul and there are a ton of places. Just not sure where to attach on motorcycle. Picking up my new K1600 GA next week and am stressing.
 

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2019 R1250GS HP, 2013 K1600GT
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Where are you attaching the straps on the motorcycle. I just looked at the trailer at my local uhaul and there are a ton of places. Just not sure where to attach on motorcycle. Picking up my new K1600 GA next week and am stressing.
Dont stress, you will find the procedure complete with pictures in the owners manual.
 

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Where are you attaching the straps on the motorcycle. I just looked at the trailer at my local uhaul and there are a ton of places. Just not sure where to attach on motorcycle. Picking up my new K1600 GA next week and am stressing.
Land vehicle Cloud Fuel tank Sky Motorcycle

Anchor points ae circled in yellow. This is where the dealership folks did it and it didn't move one little bit.
 

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@Beamerdude , to each his own... Those are 2 of the last places I'd tie down a K bike. The forward crash bar is held on by what I consider small bolts and the rear muffler mount ain't any better...

Duane
 
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