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While working on the bike I disconnected the ground from the battery and it was disconnected for about 4 days. I'm now getting what looks like tire sensor failure. Its showing a continuous General warning light with tire symbol ( ! ) anyone have an idea why before going to the mother ship. I know its due a maintenance reset because its showing me the date on start up.

Late flash: I had the upper part of the bike torn completely down to install the wiring of the PDM60 under the gas tank and along the frame for my CBdane Running light conversion and Schroedie round marker lights. When you pull the breather there are various hoses and electrical plugs that have to be removed. One of these electric plugs goes to the tire pressure monitors (RDC plug) that has to be unplugged, well if you overlook it and don't plug it back in a general warning light and low tire symbol on the console. I figured this out after calling and making an appointment with the mother ship, so Monday morning I can cancel my appointment and save my self $85.00 an hour.
If you don't have Brent's Running Light Conversion you really should consider them they look and work GREAT
 

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Low air pressure in a tire? Check tire pressure under the info menu. If the pressure is okay, you may need to get the bike rolling to reset the TPM.
 

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New owner of a leftover '19 1600B (trans recall satisfied) which I picked up yesterday. The bike didn't have a battery tender pigtail installed, so I installed on this afternoon. I disconnected the negative first (was always) then the positive for +/-10-15 minutes while routing the pigtail. Tried the charger and it was fine as expected.

I then put everything back together and started the bike (while on the charger) without issue or any warning icons/faults, at all. After +/- 3min while I was inside putting my tools away, the bike just shut down. I wasn't there to see if there were any icons/faults before it shut down, but it was completely off as if I pressed the keyless ride button on the bike to shut it down.

I started the bike again (while on the charger) and again, everything was fine, and this time the bike stayed running. I then disconnected the charger and rolled the bike out, left it running, and it was fine. I repeated the start/off several time to see if I could recreate the issue to no avail, everything is fine.

I'm thinking this had something to do with (1 or more?) of the ECM/U's resetting after the initial reconnection of the battery and start up? Has anyone ever experienced this after disconnecting, then reconnecting their battery, and can possibly confirm this may very well be my situation?

PS: Cant ride the bike yet, waiting for some DMV papers, so I can't comment how the bike rode afterwards.

Thanks,
Joe
 

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You shouldn't run the bike with a charger connected. You will back feed the circuit.

A good charger should protect itself but a cheap one might not.
I do like your point, especially with the amount of electronics on the bike. However, there is a 7.5 amp inline fuse of the positive pigtail lead, so I'd think that would've blown if the circuit was back-feeding.
 

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You shouldn't run the bike with a charger connected. You will back feed the circuit.

A good charger should protect itself but a cheap one might not.
I agree on the type of charger. I do know that all NOCO's chargers 1100 and up, the processor shuts down if back voltage is applied. I never disconnect mine if I start it for any reason. I do charge mine straight to the battery.
 

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You shouldn't run the bike with a charger connected. You will back feed the circuit.
I think you're 100% correct on this.
While setting up my preferences yesterday (while charging the bike with the ignition on accessory) I started the bike and it shut down on me 4x and I lost the 'N' indicator light in the display. Took the bike to the dealer today for a diagnostics check which showed no codes. I didn't tell them I started the bike on the charger because I wanted to see if there were any codes.

While at the dealer everything was fine, as well as this afternoon when I took it home. I'm definitely taking your advise and I'm never going to use accessory or start the bike while charging because I don't think this was coincidental, at all, Thanks for the tip, and hopefully I don't have any issues by not doing this again, ever!
 

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I agree on the type of charger. I do know that all NOCO's chargers 1100 and up, the processor shuts down if back voltage is applied. I never disconnect mine if I start it for any reason. I do charge mine straight to the battery.
I'm now looking into a NOCO charger for my 'B'. Question; Would you happen to know if the DIN connectors located near both, the front R side upper fairing & L side rear panel cover for 12v output only, e.g. heated gear? Or can I charge the battery through these DIN connectors as well? Thanks
 

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I'm now looking into a NOCO charger for my 'B'. Question; Would you happen to know if the DIN connectors located near both, the front R side upper fairing & L side rear panel cover for 12v output only, e.g. heated gear? Or can I charge the battery through these DIN connectors as well? Thanks
If I got your question correctly, so I got the dealer install a pig tail DIN straight to the battery which is so easy to do and the NOCO came with a quick connector to the charger on one side and DIN on the other. My pig tail is on the L side and only an inch out. I just did not want to buy the BMW charger via the R side acc plug. Some do, some go direct to the batt. I never had any issues with that.
 

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@scojoe, Circuit breakers will trip when and only when there is a detected short or issue where the circuit draws more amperage than the fuse is rated for. Backfeeding a circuit wouldn't fit those criteria.
Never leave the battery tender installed when the bike is running.
 

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If I got your question correctly, so I got the dealer install a pig tail DIN straight to the battery which is so easy to do and the NOCO came with a quick connector to the charger on one side and DIN on the other. My pig tail is on the L side and only an inch out. I just did not want to buy the BMW charger via the R side acc plug. Some do, some go direct to the batt. I never had any issues with that.
No, I installed an SAE pigtail from my battery leads and was using my old H-D charger.
I started my bike while charging and had some issues with the display, as well as it shutting down completely in less than 1min. 5x this happened, so I took it to the dealer for a diagnostics test and everything came back fine. I'm waiting fore the OptiMATE 4 CAN bus charger to arrive so I can plug directly into the DIN connector on the L side of the bike, and then remove the SAE connector.

@scojoe, Circuit breakers will trip when and only when there is a detected short or issue where the circuit draws more amperage than the fuse is rated for. Backfeeding a circuit wouldn't fit those criteria.
Never leave the battery tender installed when the bike is running.
Yes, I was already warned about this from another member and now I've learned do to 9as mentioned above) the display malfunction and ike shutting completely down on me 5x.
I haven't started, or turned the bike on accessory since, and I've had zero issues. Still, I wanted to be safe and use a CAN bus charger as well as its convenience to plug directly into the DIN connector. Thanks for the info.
 

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No, I installed an SAE pigtail from my battery leads and was using my old H-D charger.
I started my bike while charging and had some issues with the display, as well as it shutting down completely in less than 1min. 5x this happened, so I took it to the dealer for a diagnostics test and everything came back fine. I'm waiting fore the OptiMATE 4 CAN bus charger to arrive so I can plug directly into the DIN connector on the L side of the bike, and then remove the SAE connector.


Yes, I was already warned about this from another member and now I've learned do to 9as mentioned above) the display malfunction and ike shutting completely down on me 5x.
I haven't started, or turned the bike on accessory since, and I've had zero issues. Still, I wanted to be safe and use a CAN bus charger as well as its convenience to plug directly into the DIN connector. Thanks for the info.
You got it and my bad. I meant SAE. 6 guys in my riding group with BMW's, 2 charge via the CAN Bus, 4 straight to the pigtail, so I went to the pigtail as well. On my older GTLE, I had it connected to the pigtail as well. Never issues. I do believe on investing in good trickle charger for all the wonderful reasons. They carry good electronic surge protection and moreover accurate processor which our batteries need. Happy riding....!!!!
 

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You got it and my bad. I meant SAE. 6 guys in my riding group with BMW's, 2 charge via the CAN Bus, 4 straight to the pigtail, so I went to the pigtail as well. On my older GTLE, I had it connected to the pigtail as well. Never issues. I do believe on investing in good trickle charger for all the wonderful reasons. They carry good electronic surge protection and moreover accurate processor which our batteries need. Happy riding....!!!!
I got a little worried about the electronics in the bike, so it was recommended to me to use a CAN bus charger, so just have more peace of mind, I went for one. Otherwise, again, I haven't had an issue with the SAE as long as I don't start, or turn the bike to accessory while plugged in, which I haven't done since the issues I had. Happy & safe riding to you as well.
 

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I would keep and use the SAE connector.

The SAE connector is also useful for an air compressor if you should ever get a flat, heated gear and for your bikes air conditioner.
 

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I've already received the OpiMATE DIN to SAE adapter for my heated jacket, and Aerostich air compressor that I carry (along with tire plugs) which uses an SAE connector.
Are you suggesting that the SAE is 'safer as well as better' to use direct from the battery terminals, rather than plugging into the DIN connector with the OptiMATE 4 CAN bus charger for charging, as well as for the heated gear and compressor? I'm asking because I intended to remove the SAE connector from the battery since buying the OptiMATE items. And how did you know I got the air-conditioned model, I've never mentioned this to anyone??? Thanks
 

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Well....since you need the SAE for the air compressor I would use it for the charger too.

It may just be me but I don't like using accessory ports for major power items. For minor things like USB draw they are fine.

The A/C option is not widely known and I like it that way.
 

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Well....since you need the SAE for the air compressor I would use it for the charger too.

It may just be me but I don't like using accessory ports for major power items. For minor things like USB draw they are fine.

The A/C option is not widely known and I like it that way.
So, I don't need the SAE for the air compressor because I have the OptiMATE DIN to SAE adapter.
My biggest concern is the safety of the microprocessors using the DIN instead of using the SAE direct from the battery.
 

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So, I don't need the SAE for the air compressor because I have the OptiMATE DIN to SAE.
My biggest concern is the safety of the microprocessors using the DIN instead of using the SAE direct from the battery.
Your air compressor will trigger canbus to shut the circuit down. You need to use the SAE connector for an air compressor because it draws quite a lot of juice. You are welcome to ask me how I know this :)
 

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Your air compressor will trigger canbus to shut the circuit down. You need to use the SAE connector for an air compressor because it draws quite a lot of juice. You are welcome to ask me how I know this :)
I already know.
But it's safe to use the DIN connector for charging, correct? Or should I use the SAE and avoid the going through the CAN bus altogether which would be a safer bet? Apologies if I keep asking the same question, but it's probably due to the air-conditioning being too cold on my bike. Thanks
 

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This ain't rocket science. :) For battery charging you are NEVER wrong going directly to the battery.

Duane
 
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