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Discussion Starter #1
Where I live in Vegas, we've got a ton of broken pavement and crack sealer that makes the DTC kick in every time I try to accelerate from low speeds. Not only is it annoying as ****, it's dangerous when I can't count on being able to accelerate up to speed when I'm entering traffic.

I've read in the manual that if the DTC detects a fault for too long it will turn itself off.

Is there a way to cause a fault by unplugging a sensor or removing the rear ABS tone ring or something? I'd love to be able to turn it off more permanently - doing it every time I turn the bike on is getting old.
 

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Outta This World
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DTC operates by sensing the difference in wheel speed between the front and back wheels. Disconnecting a sensor will cause it to simply fault out with a DTC error.
 

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Where I live in Vegas, we've got a ton of broken pavement and crack sealer that makes the DTC kick in every time I try to accelerate from low speeds. Not only is it annoying as ****, it's dangerous when I can't count on being able to accelerate up to speed when I'm entering traffic.

I've read in the manual that if the DTC detects a fault for too long it will turn itself off.

Is there a way to cause a fault by unplugging a sensor or removing the rear ABS tone ring or something? I'd love to be able to turn it off more permanently - doing it every time I turn the bike on is getting old.
What are your roads paved with, ball bearings??
 

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Preema
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DTC operates by sensing the difference in wheel speed between the front and back wheels. Disconnecting a sensor will cause it to simply fault out with a DTC error.
Disconnecting a sensor will also turn of ABS... One working and one not can cause a few problems, I know!!!
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #6
DTC operates by sensing the difference in wheel speed between the front and back wheels. Disconnecting a sensor will cause it to simply fault out with a DTC error.
So will that disable the DTC, or will it put the bike in to some kind of limp mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What are your roads paved with, ball bearings??
Sometimes it seems that way, yes. The crack sealer they use on the roads out here gets soft when it gets hotter, and especially in the summer when it gets up to 120*, it's as slick as snot.

Add in constant dust and minimal desert rain, and it's like riding a dirt bike sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Disconnecting a sensor will also turn of ABS... One working and one not can cause a few problems, I know!!!
Sounds like you have some experience with the situation - can you elaborate?

If I lose both the DTC and ABS on the rear wheel, I can live with that. I'd like to keep the ESC and ABS for the front wheel at least, but I'm willing to forego the ABS to get rid of the DTC.
 

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It seems you may have something else going on. I can't imagine city/urban/suburban roads loose enough to cause DTC to kick in all the time like you're explaining. Perhaps, if you haven't already, change to Dynamic mode to reduce the sensitivity.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It seems you may have something else going on. I can't imagine city/urban/suburban roads loose enough to cause DTC to kick in all the time like you're explaining. Perhaps, if you haven't already, change to Dynamic mode to reduce the sensitivity.
I ride in Dynamic all the time. It's better than Rain or Road, but still cuts in too often for the way I ride - I'm pretty heavy handed with the throttle. My last bike was Triumph Rocket III so I'm kinda spoiled power wise.

I've ridden other K1600s while mine was in for service, and they're all pretty similar with the DTC intrusion.
 

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I ride in Dynamic all the time. It's better than Rain or Road, but still cuts in too often for the way I ride - I'm pretty heavy handed with the throttle.
That heavy-handed throttle is your biggest problem with the roads you describe -- ease up! I'm not chiding you as I, too, tend to be heavy-handed with the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That heavy-handed throttle is your biggest problem with the roads you describe -- ease up! I'm not chiding you as I, too, tend to be heavy-handed with the throttle.
LOL! You're not wrong, I don't think my big girl is ever under 50% throttle unless I'm on the freeway.

I grew up on dirt bikes, so wheelies, slides, drifting etc. are second nature to me, and the K1600 is a willing partner with the DTC off.

I know my riding style is more suited to a naked super sport type of bike, but the GTL is just such a great bike all the way around I don't want to get off it.

I found a lead that goes back to the tone ring on the back wheel - I'm going to find a way to unplug it and see what happens. If that doesn't work, I'll try removing the rear ABS tone ring as see if that'll do it.
 

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I don't think my big girl is ever under 50% throttle unless I'm on the freeway.
I'll bet you go through tires in a hurry on this big beast. I feel like I'm lucky if I get more that 5,000 miles on a set. Of course, Missouri roads aren't helpful, in that regard.
 
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2017 Campagna T-Rex 16S ( K1600 )
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I believe the rear wheel sensor is an input for the riding modes because I don't have traction control and no front sensor but I have a rear sensor.
 
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Mr.Fix It
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The more I read about the issue; e.g. loss traction, in this thread the more I’m inclined to throw the BS flag.

Duane
 

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On bikes as big as these the DTC off is really not for that sudden drag race or wheelie contest. It is more of use if in a wet grass or loose gravel area that you may find yourself trying to get off of. (I have used as such a couple of times).
You might as well order an extra drive shaft if wanting to do wheelies and stoppies'.
(Though if an experienced rider I tend to lean toward Gunnerts assessment.)
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Curious as to what makes you say this is a BS thread - if you've ridden in Vegas, you know how soft and squishy the crack sealant they use out here can be in the summer. I've been riding since I was 12 and I'm 49 now. Not sure how my experience would be relevant.

I'm not looking to do nonstop wheelies and burnouts, but I do want 100% power available when I decide I need it, not when the bike decides it's permissible. I made a right turn on red in to traffic a couple of weeks ago, and the road was covered in crack seal. Guy in a pickup decided he didn't like me in front of him and got right up on my ass, so I twisted it pretty hard to stay in front of him. As soon as the rear tire crossed the crack sealant the DTC cut in and pulled power. Pickup guy was right on my ass and TBH it scared the **** out of me.

TBH the bike seems like it has more WOT power with DTC off as well, although I'm not sure if that's just psychological. Who wouldn't want the bike to respond immediately to throttle input?

Edit: I realize I mentioned wheelies in an earlier post - I'm not pulling the front end and getting up to the balance point, but if the front end comes up a couple inches while I'm accelerating, I don't want the bike pulling power to put the wheel down.
 

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Mr.Fix It
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@username taken , let's see, you had an experience where you pulled out in front of a pick-up, pi$$ed him off, gave full throttle about the time you hit a patch of road sealant, back tire broke loose, DTC kicked in, the rear wheel quit spinning, and you were on your way.

Most would say thank goodness for DTC; e.g. without DTC, in your example, the rear wheel would have lit up, you would have lost ALL traction/forward movement, and the guy you pi$$ed off would have hit you from the rear. Sounds like DTC saved your butt... That's why I threw the BS flag....

Duane
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
@Gunnert - exactly the opposite of what happened. Your post doesn't make sense - if the DTC had "saved my butt," I wouldn't be trying to disable it.

I pulled out in to traffic with plenty of room. When the rear tire crossed the first crack seal under power, the DTC cut power and the bike stopped accelerating. There were several cracks that had just been sealed, and as soon as the bike decided to start trying to apply power again, the DTC would activate and chop the throttle. It did this to me across 5 or 6 crack joints in a distance of 20-25 feet.

I was **** near dead in the water for what felt like forever doing 10mph. Truck coming up the road at 45 was understandably pissed at someone he thought had pulled out and stopped in the middle of the road for no apparent reason.

With the DTC off, the rear wheel doesn't "light up" when it crosses the crack sealants, it slips for a milisecond, and grabs traction again as soon as as it's back on regular pavement. Much quicker to regaining forward momentum, and I would prefer that my bike respond that way so I don't impede traffic because the bike won't accelerate.

Robert.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update - I tried removing the wheel sensor with no luck. It disabled the DTC, but it also disabled the ABS which I'd like to keep if possible. Tried the rear one first, and then the front separately. Dash lights blinking the whole time, and the throttle response seemed very unpredictable.

Back to the drawing board.
 
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