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I have seen discussions on my issue from today, but they are all from back in 2013 or so. Wondering if a current solution has been found...

I have a very well-maintained 2013 GTL. I keep a battery tender on it all the time. Today it did something new. It refused to turn over when the bike was hot - just as though the battery was bad.

Todays incidences:
#1: Heading out on a ride w/ my wife. Sat idling while we got ready to go. Headed down my street and the display told me that I needed air in the tires. Turned around in 1 block and put some air in the front tire. Bike was off for 5 minutes. Wouldn't start. Acted like the battery was dead, but I took it off the tender just minutes before leaving, and the battery is pretty new. Jumped it from my car. Started instantly. Headed out for a ride.

#2: Stopped at a relative's house after riding 30 minutes. Stayed there for maybe 20 minutes. Parked in the shade. Bike started fine.

#3: Another 30 minutes on the road. Pulled off the freeway to look at a map. Only stopped for 3 minutes. Bike wouldn't start. Again, acted like a bad battery. After a few attempts, the display glitched as though it was out of power. Since nobody carries jumper cables anymore, apparently, had to call AAA. Bike started instantly when jumped (too bad I didn't try before he jumped it).

Went home, dropped off my wife and headed to my local BMW dealership. Parked the bike and talked to the guy at the counter for around 20 minutes before they took the bike in. I figured they'd do a diagnostic, tell me the battery was toast, sell me a new one and I'd head out. But they told me the battery was fine, and that the bike started perfectly several times in a row. They couldn't duplicate my problem. And that's when the tech told me about the fact that some K1600s had evidenced difficulty starting while hot. But it's a rare thing - they see it around twice a year. This made the day's events make more sense. I realized that the bike failed to start when it was pretty warm and had been running only a couple of minutes before. They proceeded to tell me that there is a wire harness they can sell me that bypasses some kind of sensor or computer. $500 for the harness and about $700 in labor (5 hours). So a $1,200 fix.

I'd had to ride it and always fear that I'd be stuck when I stop by the side of the road to take a picture, get gas, etc. But $1,200 seems steep to fix the issue. I'm wondering if anybody has a solution to this issue now that the model has some more years in the marketplace.

Thanks!
 

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Odyssey PC680 battery.

The factory battery is barely sufficient, and the PC680 simply puts out more cranking amps.
 

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A couple of times recently my 2016 GTL info screen showed an orange battery symbol (ignition on engine not running). Removed the batt leads cleaned the batt terminals and lead ends and reassembled, never had the symbol show again and all is good👍
 

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I am thinking about the leads as well, lot cheaper than just blindly buying another battery out of the box. Clean them and make sure they are tight, go from there.
 

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Could well be the battery/leads, but surely either AAA or the dealer ran a test; maybe not?

However on a 2013 I am wondering whether it's the RH handlebar switchgear failing, so a kill switch going bad - easy enough to have your dealer check when/whether it has ever been changed.
 

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Mr.Fix It
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Not starting a bike when the bike is hot IS a bad battery indication. You're dealer is blowing smoke up your butt. I've never heard of this "$1200 fix for starting a hot bike" and, once again, I call bull$hit of this being a common, K1600 issue. Put a new battery in your bike. And to test the new battery take your bike on a ride to find a new dealer/mechanic.

Duane.
 

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The position of the battery on the K1600 heat soaks it when the bike stops and there is no airflow. While your battery tests ok it's weak, and when heat soaked it can't deliver the power needed to turn over the bike. I've solved this issue permanently with the Odyssey battery as pointed out by Meese.
 

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International Man of Mystery
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There were a number of engines with serious heat soak problems and my 2014 was one of them. BMW engineers annouced that they were developping a fix (new starter, some ground straps etc) to solve it. Never heard from it again and BMW replaced the entire engine at 45.000 km because the hot start problem got so bad, that I had to wait 15 min or more after a gas stop to get the engine going again. Made me wonder what the root cause really was, but I didn't question success. And no, it was not the battery.
 
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Have your dealer check your VIN number in their computer to see if it had the switches changed out per a service bulletin that was going around back in 2013-2014 concerning a switch problem relating to non starts when hot.


Read this thread. It is covering the left switch cluster but may be helpful in identifying if your bike has the old or new clusters on both sides. That is if the left is the old version then perhaps the right one is too. Look at the pictures showing the old and new horn button.

 

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My B allows me to select battery voltage level, so I can monitor it, if I choose. Assuming all 1600’s have this option ?
 

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My B allows me to select battery voltage level, so I can monitor it, if I choose.
Thats a handy feature.
I have the Clearwater Voltage Sentry to monitor batter condition.
I also have my RD set to monitor actual voltage output.

Prior to replacing my 8 year old OEM battery a few months ago, I did notice that the negative terminal had corrosion.
I thought this odd because its usually the positive terminal that is suspect to corrosion.
I did notice that the placement of the battery exposes the negative terminal to the elements....rain, water from washing etc. This may have contributed to the corrosion on the terminal.
Something to check and stay on top of.

Joe
 

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My B allows me to select battery voltage level, so I can monitor it, if I choose. Assuming all 1600’s have this option ?
Not all K1600s just newer ones. I don't know when that was added but my 2016 has it.
 
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Thats a handy feature.
I have the Clearwater Voltage Sentry to monitor batter condition.
I also have my RD set to monitor actual voltage output.

Prior to replacing my 8 year old OEM battery a few months ago, I did notice that the negative terminal had corrosion.
I thought this odd because its usually the positive terminal that is suspect to corrosion.
I did notice that the placement of the battery exposes the negative terminal to the elements....rain, water from washing etc. This may have contributed to the corrosion on the terminal.
Something to check and stay on top of.

Joe
What would be the best product we could use to coat terminals with to prevent any corrosion ?
 

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What would be the best product we could use to coat terminals with to prevent any corrosion ?
I've used this for years. I have no idea how long I've had it...it is seeming to last forever.


It is a spray so it goes on quite easily and it is purple so you can clearly see what you've covered and what you haven't covered.
 

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These bikes are VERY sensitive to the quality of the battery. It might check good voltage wise but they require a lot of current to start and run all the electronics. As the crew told you, the battery is bad. Don't ever go back to that dealer again, they tried to sell you magic dust for $1200.
 
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