Thanks for the write up and the pics RL.
Much clearer than the manual.

 

Now for the engine oil. This is a job where there will be a lot of oil, some getting all over the place. In the alternative, it's only me that has this issue.

The K1600 engine has two separate oil drain plugs. One external, and one internal.

The internal crankcase oil plug is a standard BMW plug. A 5 mm Allen wrench removes it.

Use great caution when removing this plug because it only allows a 3 mm insertion of the wrench. Easy to strip, and easier to have fall off the wrench and may fall into the engine sump.

If the BMW OE crankcase oil plug is ruined by using an Allen extension that rounds out the hole, or the plug falls off the end of the Allen extension, you will get to remove the sump to remove the plug.

Anyway, back to the oil change.

Locate the sump drain under the engine.

An 8 mm Allen socket removes this oil plug. About 4 quarts will quickly drain.

The sump drain plug is magnetic. Wipe any metal bits that have collected.

When the volume is emptied, and the oil is but a dribble, it is time to remove the crankcase oil plug.

What I do first though, is reinstall the drain plug and empty my oil drain pan. This keeps the 7 quart pan from getting too full, making emptying the pan even more messy.

At this point, I am going to show you the oil change I do with my bike. A change made easier because I replaced my BMW crankcase oil plug with my Super Plug.

I once again remove the sump plug and prepare to remove the Super Plug, using a 3" long 1/4" socket extension.

There is another quart of oil in the crankcase.

This is my Super Plug, the original test mule, firmly attached to the socket extension.

While the engine completely drains, I move over to the other side of the bike to replace the oil filter.

To make life easier, and spill less oil, I use a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil to protect the exhaust pipe and guide the waste oil into the drain pan.

You can see that I used my Wunderlich oil filter socket to loosen the filter, and allow it to drain a while.

My dealer mechanic uses a bit of cardboard.

Once removed, wipe any dirt away from the area.

Wipe a bit of oil on the oil filter gasket. Install the new oil filter to where the gasket just touches the engine.

BMW says to torque the new oil filter to 11 NM.

I follow the instructions on the oil filter, just like all the filters on my cars. Once the gasket touches the engine, I tighten the new oil filter 3/4 turn.

 

Now it is time to reinstall the two engine oil drain plugs. Back to the other side of the bike.

I first insert the Super Plug, stuck on the end of the socket extension. Tighten finger tight.

Then torque to 12 NM, or since I have the Super Plug, a bit more.

Stock plug instructions:

Sump Oil Plug:

Reinstall the sump oil plug, along with a new crush washer, and torque to 28 NM with the 8 mm Allen socket.

I double check this torque as the crush washer settles into position.

A little wipe and you are ready to refill the engine.

I fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil, using a paper funnel.

4 quarts will refill the sump to the top. You need to refill the crankcase, and fill the oil filter, before adding the last quart.

N.B.: I know that the Owners Manual says 4.75 quarts (4.5 L), but my dealer, and now I, go ahead with adding the whole 5 quarts. Works fine, and is easier than wasting the last cup of oil.

Start the engine to refill the crankcase, and make room for more oil. 30 to 60 seconds will do just fine.

Fill the last quart. Wipe and reinstall the dip stick.

Oil level check after change with 5 quarts:

You are done. :clap:

I keep a written record of every fluid change, date, mileage and what oils I used.

 

Now it is time to reinstall the two engine oil drain plugs. Back to the other side of the bike.

I first insert the Super Plug, stuck on the end of the socket extension. Tighten finger tight.

Then torque to 12 NM, or since I have the Super Plug, a bit more.

Stock plug instructions:

Sump Oil Plug:

Reinstall the sump oil plug, along with a new crush washer, and torque to 28 NM with the 8 mm Allen socket.

I double check this torque as the crush washer settles into position.

A little wipe and you are ready to refill the engine.

I fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil, using a paper funnel.

4 quarts will refill the sump to the top. You need to refill the crankcase, and fill the oil filter, before adding the last quart.

N.B.: I know that the Owners Manual says 4.75 quarts (4.5 L), but my dealer, and now I, go ahead with adding the whole 5 quarts. Works fine, and is easier than wasting the last cup of oil.

Start the engine to refill the crankcase, and make room for more oil. 30 to 60 seconds will do just fine.

Fill the last quart. Wipe and reinstall the dip stick.

Oil level check after change with 5 quarts:

You are done. 👏

I keep a written record of every fluid change, date, mileage and what oils I used.

RL, this post was incredibly helpful, thank you!

 

On the final drive oil change, the only thing I do differently is to remove, or at least break loose, the refil plug before removing the drain plug. That way, if there's a problem with the refil plug, I still have oil in the final drive.

 

Now that is wisdom right there. I was changing my FD oil and rounded off the drain plug. I had removed the fill plug so I could still ride if I need to. If I had done the reverse, removed the drain first then rounded the fill- would be stuck with no oil and no plug. All the same, the dealer will take a day or two to send me a new drain plug so all is well.

 

Wow. Thanks for the great write up. It's inspiring. I'd do mine right now if I wasn't on holiday.


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i was wondering where you've been?
nice!


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Awesome summary, and thanks for the pix! Can you please elaborate on the "super plug" that you mentioned?

 

Can you please elaborate on the "super plug" that you mentioned?

The whole deal with a better oil plug was the anxiety over removing the BMW crankcase oil plug. Several generations later, and there is the Super Plug.

Which would you rather use?

The Super Plug locks onto the socket extension.

 

Goodness CD. You must be new. The RL Super Plug is more famous than Elvis, Oxy Clean, or The Grassy Knoll.

Please enlist the Search function.


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http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1405


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CD, the Super Plug takes the stress out of removing that inside stock plug. I had the first gen Super Plug and this latest variant is hands down the best. There is no way to mess up draining your oil once it's in place. I'll ride my GT around a bit to warm up the engine. Then let it cool a spell as I'm not keen on burning my hands with blazing hot oil.

Great walk through and terrific photos RL. I need to get one of those digital torque devices. Assume the man in the brown truck delivered it to your door?

This type of write-up should be placed in a "How To" or "Hall of Wisdom" section of the forum. :gm

 

I need to get one of those digital torque devices. Assume the man in the brown truck delivered it to your door?

Yes, UPS, but I don't recall where I ordered it. eBay maybe? There are a number of them out there, but I saw some YouTube videos where this brand was well regarded. Works for me, now that I have the button pushing menu better understood.

 

At my 6,000 mile service, I had the dealer install the superplug that I supplied (through RL), and the service writer actually looked at it and said, "that is some really nice welding."

In 2K more miles I will be doing my first oil change, but for the 6K service, I just let the dealer do it. Thanks for the great write up, as usual.

 

the service writer actually looked at it and said, "that is some really nice welding."

Yes, the guy that does the welding was selected by Honda to repair their Goldwing frames, back when they were failing. He is nearing retirement, and I'm glad to have him located so close. The challenge is welding the two parts, without damaging either one. Something about directing how the welding heat flows.

 

There are often discussions about how best to check the oil level here. Similar to all the AdvRider discussions with the GS R engine.

Here are some photos that may help.

My point is that you need not get so wigged-out about checking the oil level. The oil temperature and trapped bubbles have an impact on the level, but not that much.

In addition, this is a dry sump system. So, it isn't like your crankshaft is spinning in this oil bath. It is in a separate oil sump.

The oil level isn't nearly as important as in a non-sump system.

One problem appears to be over-filling the K1600 engine. People check the level when the oil is too cold, or in the alternative, not hot enough. This allows a lower level to be indicated on the dipstick.

I find that the best time to check the oil level is on a long ride, at the gas station, while the engine is fully hot. Then, you are assured that the oil is at operating temperature and will indicate the accurate level on the inserted dipstick.

Another issue is a false reading by the oil level sensor, and dash indication to check the oil level. I have been stopped on an incline taking a photo, with the engine idling in neutral, when the dash flashes the oil warning. My oil level was, and always is, just fine. It was the incline that triggered the sensor. My point is that you need not go into emergency mode just because of that dash indication. Again, this is a dry sump, and there is a lot of extra oil in there.

None of my comments should be taken as a direction to be careless about oil. It is just that some get too worried about the issue. I think that over-filling is more of a concern than under-filling.

Our dipstick goes in at a shallow angle. So, the difference between add oil and full isn't that much. BMW replaced the original pre-order dipsticks with longer ones because of this issue. The difference between low and full appears to be but two cups of oil.

 

Let's review the two oil plugs, the sump plug and the crankcase plug.

The crankcase oil plug must pass through the sump plug opening. An opening which is 14.25mm wide.

Not much extra room, is there.

Here is the Super Plug fitment in the same opening.

 

The issue for me was the uncertainty of keeping the BMW crankcase plug connected to the top of the 5mm Allen extension while only being able to feel the removal of the plug.

This is the dealership mechanic removing the crankcase plug.

After changing the oil a number of times myself, I was very anxious about dropping, or knocking the BMW plug off the end of the Allen extension. This is easy to do because there is only a 3mm insertion.

Let me ask you, which is more secure, left or right?

Whichever way you wish to proceed, I have identified with plenty of detail, the way to change your own engine oil above.

 

Whichever way you wish to proceed, I have identified with plenty of detail, the way to change your own engine oil above.

I say RL is the new Billy Mays or Anthony "Sully" Sullivan.

TV Announcer: "The RL SuperPlug. Powered by the air we breathe and the water we drink!"

Bottom line, it works. :gm

 

Thanks RL, excellent thread. The drain and fill plugs on the final drive have o-rings instead of crush washers, correct?

 

The drain and fill plugs on the final drive have o-rings instead of crush washers, correct?

Yes, durable o-rings which stay in place well.

In several FD fluid changes I've never had one of the o-rings even move from position.

 

RL,

After a year with the super plug and following really good pictures and instructions I just gotta say thanks again. Had not tried the aluminum foil for the filter removal till today, no mess at all!

 

RL'S,
Great pic's your super plug a lifesaver
Where did you get digital torque meter?
One thing I learned from my 1200 was to remove final drive fill plug before drain plug, if things go bad you can still ride bike

 

That digital torque adapter came from eBay. They are available all over. There are two versions, I prefer the 3/8" one because of the torque range, size and I use 3/8" socket wrenches. Amazon seems to have the best price today.

http://www.acdelco-tools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=133

Measured Torque Range 3-59 ft-lbs (4-80 Nm)

ARM602-3
3/8" Digital Torque Adapter

 

My issue with the spring based torque wrenches is accuracy. Ride Magazine tested several and found serious inaccuracy errors.

Spring torque wrenches must be stored unloaded, and calibrated regularly. Something I'm not going to do.

The digital sensor is pretty darn accurate, and always remains that way. The only hassle is replacing the batteries someday. Since it uses two batteries, replacement is something I haven't needed to do. Common flat lithium batteries available at Walmart in bulk.

 

I've checked on the ARM602-3 in The Netherlands even though I already have a 'regular' torque wrench. You can buy it in the US for about $50. Over here they ask more than € 107 which equals more than $142 . For that kind of money I can buy 2 in the US, have them shipped including the additional import tax.

 

I can buy 2 in the US,

Prices are lower in the US for many things. As I've learned operating in other countries, the extreme level of competition in the US holds prices to the minimum. The Costco & Walmart business model.

 

When the oil is draining down on my hand, even with gloves, the oil makes holding tools slippery. I've tried the self adhesive skateboard grip and like, but the adhesive lets go when exposed to the oil.

So, JB Weld to the rescue. Messy, but with the help of a couple rubber bands, I now have excellent grip on my crankcase plug removal tools. :clap:

Its not about beauty, its about efficiency and ease of use.

 

You can see in the OP my Cheat Sheet. A useful aid when changing oil to remind me of the torque settings.

Here are the numbers for you to make one too.

K1600 Cheat Sheet

Oil Change

5 Quarts
Oil Sump Plug - 8mm Allen - New Crush Washer - 28 NM
Crankcase Super Plug - 1/4” Socket Extension - 12 NM
Oil Filter - Oil Gasket - 11 NM

Final Drive

180ml to 200 ml 75-90w Gear Oil
Drain Plug - T45 - 20 NM
Refill Plug - T45 - 20 NM

Tire Change

Front Brake Caliper - T-45 - 28 NM
Pinch Bolts - T45 - 19 NM
Wheel Axle - 50 NM

Rear Wheel Bolts - T50 - 60 NM

Links to a PDF and Word version is here: http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw.../forum/bmw-k1600-maintenance-do-yourself/18521-new-maintenance-cheat-sheet.html

 

Wet-dry metal sandpaper would be easier to source than skateboard grip. Epoxy would hold it in place all the same.

 

Just caught this RL. Thanks!

I go pick my GTL up in one week!

I will bookmark this for future use.

 

While you are under the bike, there is one last thing to do. Give the underside a bit of a clean. Maybe a spray and wipe with some cleaner polish. That way you won't be embarrassed, like I was, with a messy oil sump area.

You can bet that before I ride in an area where I will be photographed while riding on twisty roads, this part of the bike will look better.

I wasn't the only one though.