Sounds like the sweet sound of a K16

 

I dont hear anything unusual in the video but I also dont understand why you would raise the RPM up to 5000 while the bike is stationary. Hitting higher RPM’s when the bike is under load while riding is one thing but running the bike hard while sitting still is asking for problems in my opinion.

 

I was trying to lean on the bike and accidentally got my hand on the throttle

 

I had the same experience last week, could have sworn I was going to lose a jug…after a half hour of wondering what the heck was wrong I realized the guy I was riding with was on a Harley, the noise from his bike was travelling ahead and reflecting off my windshield then mixing with the sweet sound from the Sixer and causing a sound almost as bad as the noise from Greta Thunberg. At least I was able to stop the one from my bike by simply accelerating away from it.

 

Sounds fine to me.

 

It sounds 100% normal to me.

 

I've got to agree with previous posts. I don't hear anything abnormal. If the bike is in neutral with the clutch out, there is a bit more noise than with the clutch in. I've not revved mine up when sitting still in neutral, but I expect the sounds from the spinning clutch would get louder as engine speed increased.

 

Yup. Sounds like the usual K1600 whine. Kind of surprised you hadn't noticed it before...

 

I guess I'll be the locust in the ointment.

To me it sounds like your idle is lopey. I think you're down one zylinder.

 

I don't know, maybe you should be wearing a flack jacket.

 

Despite what others say there is something different about your idle.
It sounds semi correct but there is a different sound as well I detect.

Ian

 

sour sound not normal at all
Especially when trying to increase the speed, the sound is clear that it is not normal

 

Sounds like at least one cylinder is missing to me. Shouldn't sound that lopey. IMO.

 

I'd bet you have water in one or more of the spark plug/coil holes.
Filmed the below about a month and a half ago experiencing the same thing. Listen to the exhaust and try to hear which side of the engine has the misfiring/not firing cylinder.
I could clearly hear the misfire coming from the left exhaust.

Had no fault codes or anything, this was intermittent but got worse over a few days. Researched coil failures and it didn't fit really as you'd get an Check Engine Light if they fail I think.
Also, starting cold it ran perfectly but when the engine heated up I assume the water started steaming up/boiling causing the coils to short out against the head instead of giving the punch to the plugs.

Since I was going to inspect the plugs, figured I'd change the lot of I ordered in 6 new coils, plugs and coolant since I was in there and had no previous service history even though I know it has been serviced properly being a former police bike.
If you do it yourself, do recommend to get a new air duct that sits over the coils as I found this fella put up a fight and I broke a tab off it as you can see on a picture below.

In my case I had coil 1 and 3 partly waterlogged.
Blaming myself for this happening, despite far away distance and careful around engine - powerwashing is not a good idea.

You can clearly see the spark plug is almost submerged.

How a clean hole should look, no residue from rusting spark plug.

All six coils out, and replacements waiting to go in.

Just to get you an idea of the tight space. You can only really get to cylinder 1 and 6 (1 is on the right below) on the engine without removing the pipe overhead.
If you're lucky, only cylinder 1 is waterlogged.

 

Thank you, brother, for this clear explanation
But I did all this, and when I checked by the computer, it turned out that coil No. 5 was defective and I replaced it with a new one
The problem was not resolved and the situation is still the same
The technician at the dealer said that the cylinder comparison test must be checked
then we can ensure that engine not defective.
after that we will try different faults...

 

Just went and filmed a clip so you have a reference to my other clip on how the engine should sound running right.
Make sure to blow out the plug hole water with compressed air, not to let rusty water into the cylinders before removing the spark plugs. Better inspect these as well if doing the work.

 

Thanks for sharing, nice happy end Brico!

 

I took the bike to the dealer and after checking with computer he said that all things are good and there is no apparent malfunction. If the problem remaining, he may have to open the engine and this will be very costly

That's puzzling - he said there's no problem, and then said if the problem remains?

Have you made any progress with this?

 

When checking with the computer, there are no errors
But the abnormal sound continues, and according to the technician, the computer only shows electrical faults or anything that has sensors
As for the internal parts of the engine, it does not appear in the test and must be checked by hand

 

With no faults showing, you can troubleshoot which cylinder isn‘t firing by checking the individual header pipes with a temperature gun or by squirting water on them.

 

Dirty injectors? Have you ran two tank fulls of gas mixed with techron through it? K1600 injectors can get dirty. Mine shows up during cold starts though and clears out after reving up. You can also point one of those infrared temp gauges at your headers too (one at a time) and find out which cylinder is not firing like the others.

 

Because of the very hot weather, we have +48C, I haven't ride for a whole month
One day the weather become nice I went out on a bike and when I back to home I raised the RPM to about 5000
Then there was a strange sound in the engine
I took the bike to the dealer and after checking with computer he said that all things are good and there is no apparent malfunction. If the problem remaining, he may have to open the engine and this will be very costly
Has anyone seen this problem before?

I believe I may hear the sound of a cylinder misfiring inconsistently but it is hard to tell. There is a slight hollowness to my ears, a sign that is not unusual if you have a failing coil on one cylinder. This will usually cause the amber :Check Engine indicator to illuminate on the dash. That said, I have had a coil fail that did not show a dashboard light or show as a fault on my GS 911 analyzer. My bike is a 2013 with 60k on it. I have replaced 4 coils in it's lifetime.

 

Thank You All...
tomorrow the result for compression test will be ready
after that we can say what is exactly the fault.

 

How did that testing go?

 

I agree, it doesn’t sound perfect, but it could be placebo effect insofar we are trying to look for a fault through a crappy ipad speaker.

My 3 cents like many others said before, its ignition, most likely a coil or plug (or 2). If it was CPU end, it would come up on the diagnostic.

If it was fuelling/ injector side the bike would stall and misbehave a lot more.

Also, a serious mechanical issue internally in the engine such as a big end bearing low down or a valvetrain issue upstairs would create -different- but heavy knocking sounds. I think you d know if you had a seriously sick engine in a mechanical ticking bomb way, and yours does not sound like one.

 

welcome everybody
The problem has been resolved
After checking the engine, it was found that all cylinders are working fine.
The technician turned off the engine and left it until it cooled completely, then started and checked the temperature of the cylinders from the engine headers. We noticed that all of the cylinders were overheating except No. 2, we removed the coil and moved the coil from No. 2 to No. 4 and left the cylinder until it cooled down and we went back to the same check and found that headers No. 4 It is still cold with the same problem with the same engine sound. We replaced the coil with a new one, and the engine back to working very normally

Thank you everyone
For your participation and support

 

So glad it was such a simple fix.

 

The strange thing
When checking the coil on the computer, it gave an excellent signal, although it was not working

 

Coil can be perfect regarding impedance.
The problem is that you have low volt coil and high volt coil in the same package, problem will only show up while working at high temp, having high volt jumps, and depending where they go to, you will not see an error.
Glad you had it solved.
Enjoy

 

I'm wary with the many failed coil data I see around here. Vendor defect?

 

Sloppy installation of the coils allowing water to get in either at the factory or during service. Or underlying design problem that makes proper fit of the seal difficult to achieve.
Doubt that the coil fails all by itself

 

COP- Coil on plug failures are common across most brands, models, manufacturers these days. It seems like more of a general problem with the approach to ignition. You take a part that does not like heat and vibration and instead of isolating it from the problem you stick them where they are most exposed to the problem.